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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been reading a good bit of comparison's of the Duraclutch to other brands and ways of doing this.

My disclaimer before I start is this is my "opinion" but it is based on 12 years of doing this and three years primarily on Polaris products.


What is a clutch kit? As a general rule a clutch kit is a set of springs or springs and weights to recalibrate your clutch to match what you are doing, bigger tires, sand, high elevation etc.

Our "Opinion" and when I say our is myself and Dalton, is that Rangers high range is too high and simply can't over come it with a clutch kit and on the 900 the best you can do is their spring kit. They never even did anything for the 800 for the same reason. So if the person I think knows more than anyone on clutching because that is simply what he has done forever, has a great name in the business and most everyone is happy with the results they get from a Dalton I believe him.

Now the one that really gets me, is the ones where they are replacing either primary or secondary clutch or both along with clutch tuning components and comparing with the Duraclutch


I sell as many if not more of the Team primary clutches as anyone, got a pallet load coming now. I actually just bought them out. I sell them everyday and I never and I mean never sell one for any kind of gains. Why? There are no gains swapping out to the team clutch, you buy it because yours is worn out and you need a new one so why buy a stock one that is less quality at a higher price when this one is available. The performance side comes from the weights and springs that are in it. They do NOT come with the clutch, you use yours or some kit in it. So anyone selling you one for any other reason than you need a replacement is selling you something you don't need. Hunterworks will NOT do that.


Basically the same is true of the secondary clutch except that EBS secondary or roller secondary or whatever you want to call it will give you some engine braking and is a better clutch than the rapid reaction secondary Polaris uses on most models except for the ones that come from Polaris with EBS and they already have this clutch


I will say it does have the ability to change the helix out and change the angle on it etc so it may not be a waste of your money but our main selling point is adding some engine braking and to have a secondary that will last longer. So my "opinion" is getting this part might not be a bad choice


So with all that being said, we offer no clutch kits for a 800 and only a spring kit for the 900 as Dalton stated no matter what he did with the adjustable weights trying to make a kit for the 900, there is was no gain just a change in RPM and he was not going to sell a $300 kit that people didn't need. I was rather disappointed from a business stand point, I bought a 2014 Ranger 900 to test his set up and the Duraclutch. That is how we do it here, we buy the vehicles and test what we sell. Trust me, I lost money on this as far as the Dalton spring kit goes.


The other main point is why are you getting a new primary when you don't need it?


Now comparing kits and other clutch systems to the Duraclutch, you can't, why? Because as long as you have a primary clutch on your vehicle tuned any way you want that has to come in and grab the belt to get started then you stand the chance to burn or slip the belt in some heavy load condition. Can you make it better? Yes part of the Dalton kit is a weaker primary spring that allows it to engage sooner with more belt grip. But again, you still stand the chance to burn or slip the belt in the right conditions.


The Duraclutch is a totally different designed clutch where the belt is already in full contact with the primary clutch therefore you won't be slipping belts or burning them, if you could why would they give you a 5000 mile warranty on the belt?


I have already covered why clutch tuning is not that important on a duraclutch and that can be found on our site


The main thing here to me is, I would be of the "opinion" that a $85 spring kit for a 900 Ranger would be as good as any amount you would spend on any kind kit. The other is the purchasing of a primary when there is nothing wrong with yours and the same weights and springs that you use in that one can be used in yours.

If you want engine braking and want to add the EBS secondary, we can do that for $350 shipped, pull yours off and put ours on and ride

Want to clutch kit your 900 for better performance then get the Dalton spring kit for $85

Want the ultimate in clutch systems to stop burning belts and give you more low end power then get the Duraclutch for $1200

Last statement is this is a "opinion" again!! I really don't want to debate it on a forum, my purpose was to explain the replacement primary more than anything. I realize there are several in the know people on this forum and probably know more than me but there are some who have no idea and I don't want them spending money on stuff they don't need.

Feel free to call me.


Todd
 

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I do believe Todd is one of the most knowledgeable people about clutching. I appreciate how he does not bash the others out there, but leaves the choice to make for ourselves while at same time pointing out the pros & cons of the various clutches in question. Had I not first made contact with SVI I would have bought my Duraclutch from him. The old Field Test Engineer in me came out in my Discussions with SVI because the cost of the Clutch Set up I wanted real assurance from the people that developed, tested and marketing the concept. Between Todd's comments and what learned from SVI I feel I have made the right choice. To date I have yet to hear of a failure of any kind. Time and hours of use will tell us more. In the mean it is a wonderful set up for those of us that desire the features that it offers.
 

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Todd if you could only get some ranger 900xp cdi boxes that would uncork the full potential of the engine and raise the top speed governor. Kinda like all the r&d you did back in the days of the hunterworks rhino 660 cdi box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Todd if you could only get some ranger 900xp cdi boxes that would uncork the full potential of the engine and raise the top speed governor. Kinda like all the r&d you did back in the days of the hunterworks rhino 660 cdi box.
I assume that is available now at Dynojet with a power commander, but like the 660 CDI about all it would do is raise the limiter up some if that. I personally don't see a big gain on any vehicle with fuel and timing only changes.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Pierre Jean, sounds like you might want a RZR for all that. I would think most Ranger owners are not doing fast trail riding with their Ranger but I could be wrong.

Todd
HAHAHA!!! an RZR who can work , I have 5000 miles on , 2 of them with tracks , its my seconds rangers , probab I know what I want ? I want more low and mid range , I already try QSC , and I did`nt like the weight arms of QSC . I do 25% of work and for the rest , ride on road gravel . And from now no problem wich belt , don`t want "about the same as stock "
 

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You might be surprised Todd, I see a good number of Rangers on even the faster trails here. Closest thing to being the best of both worlds really, almost as capable as a RZR and much more versatile than any of the few that outclass it for trail riding. If dad's Ranger wasn't next door, I'd still have one for sure.

I'm still waiting for someone else to try one of these on a RZR S, but haven't ruled out being the one that takes the plunge. If you were a little closer, I'd just bring the RZR down and let you show me how well it works. lol!



Edit: Todd, you're actually closer than I thought at a little less than 5 hours away. Something else to think about. Ha!
 

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Our snowpack is going fast here but I still haven't had a chance or ability to trail ride. The few miles I've ridden up and down my road and around my property , the Ranger is completely different with the Dura clutch. I haven't heard gears grind once while shifting. Everything is very very smooth. My secoundary( I assume) used to 'ring' like hitting a pipe with a hammer. That noise is gone. PLeanty of power. And if anyone has trail ridden doing the 'two step' gas/break to keep the clutch engaged and not freewheel down the hill...that 'sucks'....and with out even hitting the trail yet this season....I know that 'dance' is gone. Riding should be fun,,,the clutch costs a lot...but I plan on keeping my ride for many years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
HAHAHA!!! an RZR who can work , I have 5000 miles on , 2 of them with tracks , its my seconds rangers , probab I know what I want ? I want more low and mid range , I already try QSC , and I did`nt like the weight arms of QSC . I do 25% of work and for the rest , ride on road gravel . And from now no problem wich belt , don`t want "about the same as stock "
The selling point of the Duralclutch is not the performance side, it is the low end take off, no belt burning or slipping side for people who really work the ranger, have huge tires, rock crawl etc. Will still do the rest but what it is designed to do the low stuff, nothing beats it.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So how hard is it to change out the spring kit u talked about that it 85 bucks im not really that mechanicaly inclined but can do some things
Not a whole lot to it, we have videos, there is instructions and I can tell you on the phone

Pretty easy.

Todd
 

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Hopefully someone will step up and post about it. I check that forum daily too, I just like posting over here more.

It'll take me at least that long to roll $1200 worth of pennies anyway. Ha!
 
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