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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As long as I dont overfill, can I add fluid through the front diff vent tube on a 2011 - 400ho? Already wasted a half quart trying to fill through the fill hole.
 

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Technically, yes and would only do so personally if replacing the tube afterwards. My concern would be the film coat in the tube, so if any back air would occur, then dust will stick and gravity lead it to gear box. I will take a picture of feeder tube to avoid all this and post it here today.
 

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Technically, yes and would only do so personally if replacing the tube afterwards. My concern would be the film coat in the tube, so if any back air would occur, then dust will stick and gravity lead it to gear box. I will take a picture of feeder tube to avoid all this and post it here today.
I agree.......or add a filter to the end of the tube. Extending and filtering the vent tube would be my choice and that's how I always changed mine on my old Ranger. The RZR is much more accessible, so I change it in the conventional method.
 
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I'll add one more comment. The only disadvantage to adding it this way is that it's a little slower. You have to add a little and let it burp, then repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks everyone. The tubing is cheap enough, so I'll just replace it. I planned on adding the filter anyway, but didn't think about the film possibly running back down and clogging the filter!
Unfortunately I have a new problem. I can grab both front axels and easily rattle them (about a 1/4" of play. What do yall think? Is that normal? If not, axels or differential?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. I understood ya. I said "run back down" cause the vent tube runs in an arch. Is that a normal amount of axel play?
 

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I think at the point its attached (differential) there would be little movement and little need for slack/arch. However, I suspect they give longer lines where you can route it, bend it over well above a water crossing line (floor boards) plus angled down to create a good drip away from the interior if gotten wet, this is a guess.
 

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......Is that a normal amount of axel play?
No, that's a little excessive. My RZR did that right before the seal started leaking and they ended up replacing the diff' under warranty. If yours is still under warranty, I'd call the dealer and mention it. They may not be able to do anything until it starts leaking or something actually fails, but I'd at least want to make a note that it was brought to their attention......especially if you only have the standard 6 month warranty and time is limited. If you're nearly out of warranty, I'd press the dealer to fix it. By the time they disassemble it and replace all of the necessary components to remove that slack, it's cheaper to replace the entire diff'.......that's why mine was replaced.
 

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Thanks everyone. The tubing is cheap enough, so I'll just replace it. I planned on adding the filter anyway, but didn't think about the film possibly running back down and clogging the filter!
Unfortunately I have a new problem. I can grab both front axels and easily rattle them (about a 1/4" of play. What do yall think? Is that normal? If not, axels or differential?
In my opninion, yes, it is normal. What causes it is corrosion between the cups in the diff, and the splines of the CV's. I've had cups replaced on 2 rangers for this problem (warranty), but they denied the 3rd. it seems now polaris doesn't cover "corrosion".lol anyway, from what I've seen, run them as long as you can until the CV comes close to hitting the frame mounts for the lower control arm. In fact, I shaved some off of my arm mount just to make sure mine wouldn't hit. It's impossible to keep water/mud out of this area, so I'm not going to repair this on my dime until I have to. they will run "wobbly" a long long time.
 

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I need to retract my previous statement and agree with Adam. I thought you had a 2015, but after looking back at the original post I see it's a 2011 model. That much slack is probably normal for a 4 year old machine.
 
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