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Discussion Starter #1
Have you guys Disconnected your sway bars. I'm looking for better articulation in technical riding. If so was it just front or front and rear?
 

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I have disconnected and removed mine since it was new and will never put it back on since i dont drive fast.
 

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G, most of the sway bars disconnect themselves after a few short years . The thin wall tubing they use snaps and Wa-La................ no more sway bar... Weld it you say ? That will last about an hour more. No really...
 
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Id start with the front only and see what you think. A click or two up on the springs may help you fine tune the feel. A few minutes and a 15mm wrench and socket to see what you think. When the rear is disconnected is when things can get squirrely depending on how you ride. If you run a little fast or side hill it may be a tad tippy.
 
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looks like you'd have to remove a bunch of parts to get it out. I just removed the links and zipp tied the bar up incase i wanted to hook it up later.
 

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I took my rear sway bar off two days ago. I could not find a front sway bar on my 2016 900 XP crew. We are going riding at Hidden Falls here in Texas this weekend. I'll try and remember to come back on here and post an update.
 

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Disconnected front, didn’t like the back disconnected so I extended the sway bar links to match the lift.

I like it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Disconnected front, didn’t like the back disconnected so I extended the sway bar links to match the lift.

I like it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So does your rear sway bar sit level? Not on a downward angle
 

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Mines at a downward with stock suspension geometry.
 

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So does your rear sway bar sit level? Not on a downward angle
Yep sits just like factory. All I did was cut the links in half, took a 6” long pipe nipple that I cut the threads off of, slid the link pieces into the nipple and tack the bottom side, installed it back on Ranger, slid top up until sway bar was level, tacked the top side, removed from Ranger, then welded it up solid. Copy what you did on that side to the other. Took 15 minutes and handles great.

This is on a 3” lift. I can’t remember but I think the nipples were 3/8”. I thought I had a picture but I don’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I was able to completely remove the front sway bar. Feel like with my riding style it will better suit me.
 

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How much plastic had to come off?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How much plastic had to come off?
None. Just two screws and two bolts. It looks complicated from outside looking in but it's actually pretty simple. Especially now that I've done it already.
 

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None. Just two screws and two bolts. It looks complicated from outside looking in but it's actually pretty simple. Especially now that I've done it already.
I'd of swore you would have had to take some plastic off to get that out.
So just pull the bolts out of the bushings and you can jimmy the bar out?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'd of swore you would have had to take some plastic off to get that out.
So just pull the bolts out of the bushings and you can jimmy the bar out?

I'll try and explain best I can.

  • Disconnect sway bar from a arms
  • Remove upper mounting bolts for front bumper
  • remove the two hex screws directly next to upper mounting bolts on bumper. They hold down the bottom of front plastics. This allows you to pull front plastic forward enough to get sway bar bushings out.
  • remove the 4 sway bar bushing bolts
  • remove sway bar bushing from sway bar by pulling them toward the outside of machine and they basically fall apart with a little work.
  • now that the sway bar is free from everything turn it so the part that connected to a arm linkage is facing directly down toward the ground.
  • pull bottom of front plastics forward just enough to completely slide sway out from one side
(It may seem complicated and in depth but it's honestly pretty simple to remove any questions I'll help out)
 

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Thanks for the run down G.
 
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