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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to machine a new tranny drain plug for my Polaris Ranger UTV. the case is alum' & the OEM plug is plated (zinc?) steel & seals w/ an O ring. The OEM plug has a recess for a hex driver & I stripped it out trying to change the fluid. "My" plug will have a hex to fit a normal socket for better engagement.


I'm wondering if I should use CRS w/ Kopr-Kote http://www.jetlubecanada.com/tds/koprkotes.pdf or "normal" antiseize Specialty Lubricants - Anti-Seize : Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant

My other choice is stainless steel to prevent galvanic action between the steel & alum' (see late 70s Chev & Pontiac bumpers)?


I see Permatex sells a copper based formulation as well. I have both of the previously mentioned products in the shop.
Normally the plug is installed dry, but wondering if the antiseize would affect the sealing.
 

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Stainless would be my choice. As far as the anti-seize goes, I don't think that either type will make a huge difference, but I would definitely use it.
 

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ANother thing to consider, when tightening it..ya aint gotta go buck wild on it. its an o ring fitting..snug it and be done. This is where most ppl get screwed. lol Going with a "nut" looking plug will be ok for the frotn diff, but i highly suggest NOT doing it for crank case OR rear diff. ESPECIALLY not on crank case..that baby gets caught on something, and you'll know it reallly quick.
 

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I would replace it with the oem Allen socket plug. You only need to snug it (inch pounds) for it to seal. Put a little bit of tranny fluid on the threads before you install it, I would not use any sort of anti seize.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ANother thing to consider, when tightening it..ya aint gotta go buck wild on it. its an o ring fitting..snug it and be done. This is where most ppl get screwed. lol Going with a "nut" looking plug will be ok for the frotn diff, but i highly suggest NOT doing it for crank case OR rear diff. ESPECIALLY not on crank case..that baby gets caught on something, and you'll know it reallly quick.
Not sure how the plug on the tranny case would get caught on anything when it's on the side, not the bottom. I've used a torque wrench set to the specs Polaris calls for (manual is out in shop) so I haven't reefed on it. It's too bad you need to use a 12" extension to get @ the plug. The engine & front axle plugs are easy enough to get to.
 

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Drains on the side, ok n/m then. my bad. Yah...your right....if ya ripped that baby off...you'd have a hell of a good story and hopefully some pictures for us. hahahaha.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I finally got around to getting the OEM plug from the dealer. The thread is a normal UNF 3/4" - 16 thread. The OD of the plug is 7/8", so I'll machine the new plug w/ a 9/16" hex.
 

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Are you talkin an inney or outty ?
 

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I use Permatex Anti seize grease on all threads on any thing threaded into aluminum, especially when steel plugs are used as in this case. Never had a problem taking them out. I have removed several over the years for others that the Allen wrench socket was stripped out. It is not any easy job by any means. Center punch and a dull chisel being careful not to damage the case has always worked for me. I agree the flush OEM plug is what I would go back with.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you talkin an inney or outty ?
An "outty" LOL.

I'll m/c the hex long so that a wrench is fully "engaged" on the flats.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Machined a plug tonight. It turned out OK, but not impressed w/ the surface finish of the hex & the threads. I used hot rolled steel instead of cold rolled. That may have something to w/ my results.

2015-01-15 Drug Plugs Top View.jpg 2015-01-15 Drug Plugs Side View.jpg 2015-01-15 Drain Plug + Wrench.jpg

I'll draw up a sketch & post it. If you have a friend w/ a small lathe & vertical mill (w/ spin index to machine the hex), they should be able to machine you 1 in about an hour.
 
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nice plug. Question, couldn't you just weld the head of a bolt to the old plug?

Maybe my ways are too redneck. lol


I've always gotten by with antisieze on the threads, and not overtightening. give the plugs a tap with a hammer and punch when you're ready to take them out and they'll come out without a fuss/
 

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Discussion Starter #14
nice plug. Question, couldn't you just weld the head of a bolt to the old plug?

Maybe my ways are too redneck. lol


I've always gotten by with antisieze on the threads, and not overtightening. give the plugs a tap with a hammer and punch when you're ready to take them out and they'll come out without a fuss/
I guess you could, but I have the tools so I may as well use them to make a proper part.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, now I have a question about the O ring. The measurements are as follows:

.086" cross section/width

.833" O/D

.655" I/D

I've checked on the 'net & can't find a listing for any O rings of this thickness. Any hydraulics experts that might be able to help me. Failing that does anyone know the Polaris PN for this drain plug O ring (2011 500 trans/rear axle drain)?
 

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OK, now I have a question about the O ring. The measurements are as follows:

.086" cross section/width

.833" O/D

.655" I/D

I've checked on the 'net & can't find a listing for any O rings of this thickness. Any hydraulics experts that might be able to help me. Failing that does anyone know the Polaris PN for this drain plug O ring (2011 500 trans/rear axle drain)?
Although I do admire your machining skills, the O ring boss plugs are available with a hex head (mild steel or 316 stainless).
I will assume you were looking at standard O ring sizes instead of O ring Boss sizes, O ring Boss O rings have a (900) number designation.
By the info you provided it appears you need a
# 908 O Ring Boss O ring.( the Buna N 70 Durometer O ring will work in this application).


Polaris does not list the O ring on the plugs separately.
( Looks like I may need to look up the correct ones and post in the parts sticky)

If you would not mind, will you post the information on the plug itself, if you have it handy.
(Length, diameter, thread pitch, head diameter etc)
This way I can reference the Hex Head and Socket Head plug part numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Although I do admire your machining skills, the O ring boss plugs are available with a hex head (mild steel or 316 stainless).
I will assume you were looking at standard O ring sizes instead of O ring Boss sizes, O ring Boss O rings have a (900) number designation.
By the info you provided it appears you need a
# 908 O Ring Boss O ring.( the Buna N 70 Durometer O ring will work in this application).


Polaris does not list the O ring on the plugs separately.
( Looks like I may need to look up the correct ones and post in the parts sticky)

If you would not mind, will you post the information on the plug itself, if you have it handy.
(Length, diameter, thread pitch, head diameter etc)
This way I can reference the Hex Head and Socket Head plug part numbers.
Greg, the thread is a 3/4" - 16. The OEM plug had a 3/8" hex socket. So looking online it's a 1/2 nominal plug. I'm not familiar w/ that stuff, so I had no idea where to start looking.
 

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Greg, the thread is a 3/4" - 16. The OEM plug had a 3/8" hex socket. So looking online it's a 1/2 nominal plug. I'm not familiar w/ that stuff, so I had no idea where to start looking.
Kris, did you confirm my information and get it figured out?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, I had posted on a home machine shop forum last night as well. Someone posted the same info as you had.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Went to a local hydraulics shop today & picked up a dozen O rings for 2 bucks. The counter guy knew exactly what I was looking for.
 
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