[TAZMAN10]

I built a new 2021 Ranger NS ultimate crew and lifted it two inches, put 2 inch forward A-arms and 32 inch 10 ply tires with beadlocks. At WOT it will get the belt hot and set the misfire code so I am going to make a change to tune it and clutch it. My dealer uses Gilomen and still honors the extended warranty but I am torn between the duraclutch and the Gilomen kit for larger tires. I ran the duraclutch in my 2013 with 30 inch Roctanes with no issues but I have heard you loose top end because of the smaller clutch. Is there a updated Duraclutch or is everyone using the gilomen set up?

I run the roads quite a bit but don't mind playing on the trails.

 

[TAZMAN10]

 

[RJ]

What tires taz

 

[TAZMAN10]

32 inch STI X comps. I also have a set of 32 inch carnivores on none beadlock wheels and they are lighter but it appears the STI/Beadlock weight just pushed it over the edge.

 

[RJ]

Not jabbing at you. People just don't pay close enough attention to tire weight.
I run 30 carnivores at 33lbs a piece. When it comes time for a new set...I think I'll go back to a true 28" tire. The 1" of clearance gained isn't worth it to me for the extra ware it puts on the machine.

With 32's, you've geared up about 20%. And those STI weight 47lbs. Damn heavy by anyone's standards. Where as the carnivores weigh 37.

So you've geared up and added a ton of rotating mass and unsprung weight. It's tough on a arm bushings, wheel bearings and your clutching.

We've all been guilty of putting big tires on our trucks and losing a little pep and watched Gas milage take a hit. That's on a 250+ hp truck. An 80hp belt driven 2 cylinder really takes a big hit.

That being said. There's nothing magical about the dura clutch. They wear out and need service also. They were originally designed for running tracks, have excellent engine breaking and smooth take off. Almost like adding hydrostatic drive to your machine. What your currently experiencing now is lack of belt grip near full shift. And most likely happening in the secondary clutch due to the heavy tires.

Gillomens torque monster weights and mudder secondary spring will adress the belt slip. And what I'd go with. Especially since your dealership is standing behind it. It's easily user adjustable should you ever decide to add weight, different tires etcetera. And parts are readily available for your stock clutch should you ever need bushings, rollers,bearings.

 

[TAZMAN10]

Thank you for the reply. The tires are heavy and I knew the issue would come up but just hadn't decided on what direction to go. I ran the duraclutch on my 2013 for years with no issue and those Roctanes were heavy with the STI beadlcock. Every 500 miles I pulled the clutch and cleaned it by blowing out the dust then using rubbing alcohol to clean the sleeves. I realize most people don't do that but my 2013 looked like new when I sold it. I will reach out to Gilomen and see what they recommend. Hopefully they have stuff in stock.

 

[TAZMAN10]

I was actually going to put 35 inch tires on it but it won't clear a 7 foot door so it would have to go in the shop!!lol It looks good and once I get the clutch and belt issue resolved it will be fine for us. This is with the 32 inch Carnivores on it.

 

[RJ]

Nice looking machine!
I would get the tune along with the clutch kit.
Next tires for me will be the maxxis rampage. Little tighter tread pattern and slightly harder compound.

 

[TAZMAN10]

I think that is what I am going to do. The Carnivores wear pretty fast on these heavy machines.

 

[Gerb4653]

Good luck with the belt heat. Follow up with any results please.

I am back to factory clutching (Hunterworks belt) on 28” BFG’s and and monitor belt temp with a Razorback 3.1. Great gauge just waiting on the fan which reminds me i better check on the status. So mine will build what i call low to mid heat (150 degrees) fairly quick.

Once everything is heat soaked and i run it wide open on the highway the temps like to hang in that 190-205 and on decel spike a bit more. Im not anywhere as good with cvt’s as i want to be. Put a Duraclutch on for the take off but hated the reduction in top speed. This was the earlier flversion where you keep the factory secondary on the machine. Have tried a couple of clutch setups and nothing reduced the heat. I put a blowhole in the intake but it didn’t seem to make any difference maybe made it worse who knows. Tried a side inlet cover from a RZR and temporarily plumbed it to pull air from inside and no difference. I did learn that when you rev high that system pulls a crap load of air volume. My next step is to use the side cover along with the factory inlet/exhaust and install the Razorback fan inline to the secondary inlet. The gauge runs the fan speed based on a temp curve and if i want to tweak said curve Razorback will reprogram it for a fee. Really my only complaint from my machine other than i dont get to drive it enough is the belt heat.

Have never blown a belt, but also don’t purposely try to. Didn’t have the temp gauge installed until around 1k miles when I installed the Duraclutch so i never had a great baseline but they are higher than my liking.

 

[TAZMAN10]

Great feedback. I run the belt temp gauges on my race machines but never have on a Ranger. I was hoping they would redesign the duraclutch for our new machines to make them right but it appears I will have to use Gilomen. The dealer where I purchased my Ranger has done a few with Gilomen stuff and they seem pretty happy.

On another note; we always run blowers on our race side by sides and have good luck but I really want to make this a very dependable cruiser. We sold our X3 race buggy and we bought a house with a 20x40 in ground pool Should of kept racing.....might be cheaper

 

[RJ]

Oh my. If I had a belt temp gauge to monitor I'd drive myself crazy.

Been clutching sleds since th e 90's and my first ranger in 2004.

When you add larger or heavier tires and are getting heat in the upper rpms....same when adding a paddle track to a sled....it's usually the secondary spring not applying enough side force. Ideally dropping the helix angle back to slow the upshift helps. But you can accomplish the same thing with a heavier secondary spring. This will slow the upshift, keep it in a higher ratio longer and grab the belt tighter. It's all a balancing act.

 

[Gerb4653]

Is it ever possible to squeeze the belt too much? Asking for a friend. 😀

 

[RJ]

Yes....always that chance.

In that case...the tip of the weights could be to light and cause slip in the primary. But then....usually the rpms would climb out of sight.

What setups have you tried? And what machine? Maybe I can give you some suggestions.

 

[TAZMAN10]

I will see if I can get ahold of Gilomen today and get something lined up.

 

[RJ]

I will see if I can get ahold of Gilomen today and get something lined up.

Easiest way to to get specific questions answered is to shoot them an email at there tech email if you can't get anyone on the phone.

Grady usually gets back with you within a couple hours.

 

[Gerb4653]

20 XP 1k NS Crew

Factory, then Duraclutch with factory secondary, factory primary with Black Max kit (cant remember all the weight setups…neglected to note that) with factory spring in secondary, and finally added Terrys big tire secondary spring. Not sure the rates on them. I guess the only real differi noticed was that the Duraclutch and the Black max kit revved higher 7800 or so cus the tune changed the rev limiter.

 

[TAZMAN10]

All the Gilomen stuff should be here on Friday. I bought the tuner so I can save my stock file.

 

[RJ]

Did you get your goodies?

 

[TAZMAN10]

Quick update, I did get the tuner and the clutch kit installed. Clutch is much smoother but I haven't been able to drive it a lot. I haven't really seen much gain in seat of the pants power but that is subjective. Once I get a little more time on it I can provide more feedback.