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What tires taz
 

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Not jabbing at you. People just don't pay close enough attention to tire weight.
I run 30 carnivores at 33lbs a piece. When it comes time for a new set...I think I'll go back to a true 28" tire. The 1" of clearance gained isn't worth it to me for the extra ware it puts on the machine.

With 32's, you've geared up about 20%. And those STI weight 47lbs. Damn heavy by anyone's standards. Where as the carnivores weigh 37.

So you've geared up and added a ton of rotating mass and unsprung weight. It's tough on a arm bushings, wheel bearings and your clutching.

We've all been guilty of putting big tires on our trucks and losing a little pep and watched Gas milage take a hit. That's on a 250+ hp truck. An 80hp belt driven 2 cylinder really takes a big hit.

That being said. There's nothing magical about the dura clutch. They wear out and need service also. They were originally designed for running tracks, have excellent engine breaking and smooth take off. Almost like adding hydrostatic drive to your machine. What your currently experiencing now is lack of belt grip near full shift. And most likely happening in the secondary clutch due to the heavy tires.

Gillomens torque monster weights and mudder secondary spring will adress the belt slip. And what I'd go with. Especially since your dealership is standing behind it. It's easily user adjustable should you ever decide to add weight, different tires etcetera. And parts are readily available for your stock clutch should you ever need bushings, rollers,bearings.
 
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Nice looking machine!
I would get the tune along with the clutch kit.
Next tires for me will be the maxxis rampage. Little tighter tread pattern and slightly harder compound.
 

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Oh my. If I had a belt temp gauge to monitor I'd drive myself crazy.

Been clutching sleds since th e 90's and my first ranger in 2004.

When you add larger or heavier tires and are getting heat in the upper rpms....same when adding a paddle track to a sled....it's usually the secondary spring not applying enough side force. Ideally dropping the helix angle back to slow the upshift helps. But you can accomplish the same thing with a heavier secondary spring. This will slow the upshift, keep it in a higher ratio longer and grab the belt tighter. It's all a balancing act.
 

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Yes....always that chance.

In that case...the tip of the weights could be to light and cause slip in the primary. But then....usually the rpms would climb out of sight.

What setups have you tried? And what machine? Maybe I can give you some suggestions.
 

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I will see if I can get ahold of Gilomen today and get something lined up.
Easiest way to to get specific questions answered is to shoot them an email at there tech email if you can't get anyone on the phone.

Grady usually gets back with you within a couple hours.
 

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Did you get your goodies?
 

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Full effect of the tune won't be felt unless in performance mode.
 
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