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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well out of the blue the other day I stop and turn off the engine and then it will not start, or even try to start, nothing. No big deal I turn on the key jump across the solenoid and I am back in business and everything seems to be acting normally, fan cycling etc. Once I get home I try it again and same thing, no start, so I figure solenoid is bad. Of course no dealer in the area has one and it looks like a typical Ford type solenoid would work.....Well it didn't, then I discover that the pig tail I unplugged from the stock solenoid has another female plug of the same type laying under the hood in the same place as the ignition plug, WTH??? I still cannot figure out what that plug went to or why it existed if it does not go anywhere. Both wires on the mystery plug have 4.75 volts??? Well about this time is when I see my codes show up for the first time. I have a 0-3597-3, 1-110-3 and a 2-51-3. I cannot get these codes to clear even if I disconnect the battery. I can still jump the new solenoid and get it started but as soon as it starts the fan comes on with a cold engine and the engine temp runs up way too high while the engine has not really even warmed up yet. So next I test the brake switch, it reads a low voltage 2 to 3 and increases the longer and harder I press the brake but maxes out at 6 volts. If I jump the switch I get the full 12 volts. So now I am just stuck hoping the new solenoid and brake switch I have ordered fix everything....and hope I did not mess something up plugging the solenoid into the wrong replay.

Does anyone have any idea what the other harness plug right by the solenoid plug is for????

Does anyone now how to reset the codes?
 

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Man, that one has me stumped. Maybe another member will chime in with some help.

Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes "should" clear the codes. Of course, if the problem still exists, that code is probably just gonna pop right back up.
 

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Larry, I'm pretty sure all your problems stem back to those Elkas - just pull them off and send them to me and I'll send you some stockers in the mail right away. :playful: Seriously, not sure what problem is - I'll study the schematic when I get a few minutes. Could the plug you're asking about be the Digital Wrench diagnostic plug? Mine sits right up there near the solenoid (kinda pinkish/purple). On the code reset, how long did you leave the battery disconnected? I think the minimum is 15 minutes (?) but remember reading that one member had to leave it disconnected overnight(???).

codes;
3597-3 - ECU Output Supply Voltage 1 - voltage too high (recorded once)
110-3 - Engine Temperature Sensor (ECT) - voltage too high (recorded twice)
51-3 - Throttle position Sensor (TPS) - voltage too high (recorded 3 times)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Forde I knew you would come through. I only left the battery disconnected a few minutes so maybe I'll try it overnight. Thanks for the codes, that was the same interpretations I got. Good try on the Elkas, lol, but I would "Fred Flintstone" it before I gave them up!.
 

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You have a poor ground issue. Clean all the ground on the vehicle. Also get a service manual so you can better understand issues with your Polaris. With out it your just replacing parts $$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You are exactly right. I just ordered one. I should have had one before but haven't run into any issues electrically before.
You have a poor ground issue. Clean all the ground on the vehicle. Also get a service manual so you can better understand issues with your Polaris. With out it your just replacing parts $$$$.
 

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Redvette makes a good point on the grounds! Hoping you can get the codes cleared and see if they come back or if maybe they were a result of messing with the solenoid. The first number throws me - I would expect them all to be the same (0 means that same code is stored once, 1 means it is stored twice, etc.). Flakey ground???
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All grounds look pristine when checked. Leaving battery disconnected overnight did not clear codes. Fan comes on if engine is running and no turf mode now. Think plugging solenoid into wrong plug fried something or shorted something in harness???


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That sucks Expat. If you need some assistance, I will be around sometime this weekend. I would be willing to be an extra set of hands just to gain some knowledge myself.

Discarftpro
 

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Well, darn! Was hoping that at least the first number on all 3 codes would have changed to "0". Getting out of my pay grade here, but it doesn't make much sense that the codes didn't clear. Did you look at the codes before starting the engine (key in 'on' position)? I'm thinking that since they didn't, you have something back feeding power to the ECM, perhaps something from your second battery or an accessory that is fed by it???? I studied the schematic looking for a common connection between the fan and turf mode solenoid and other than grounds, the only thing that may be common is (prepare to grimace...) is the ECM.

Hoping someone more knowledgeable will chime in, but my next steps would be:

1. Check turf mode solenoid - unplug the 3 wire connector and feed 12v to pin 'A' (pos) and pin 'C' (neg). You should hear it click. BTW, the schematic also shows a two wire plug but it doesn't show what the two wires connect to (?).

2. Check the ground connections on the center post of the three terminal post under the hood (yeah, I know you already did, but humor me!). You fan grounds there.

3. Swap the 2 bottom left relays in your fuse box with 2 of the other relays (they are all interchangeable). The 2 bottom left ones are for your fan and ECM.

4. Follow your fan harness back until you find a wad of black tape - that is your fan circuit breaker and it's fairly common for it to corrode up - especially if you play in a lot of water or mud.

5. Check the connections on your AWD switch - especially pin #7.

6. Check your speedo plug for corroded pins/sockets.

7. Check your ECM plugs for corroded pins - common problem on earlier models.

All that stuff will probably be OK, but it'll keep you off the streets and out of the bars for awhile. Tell your wife I said "you're welcome".

If you know of someone else with a '12 800, you can temporarily swap ECMs with them - but wait until you put in your new starter solenoid. If none of that works, you may want to take it to a dealer and have them run their 'Digital Wrench' diags on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow thanks for all that effort! I have done several of the things you mentioned already. I am thinking my ECU has problems too. Remember no codes or problems existed prior to my cheap attempt at replacing the solenoid. I believe my brake switch is the original problem and the rest was due to a short. According to tracking I want have my manual or parts until next Monday. Since I leave that day for another at work I may take it to my dealer to fix it because I am planning a riding trip in March.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I dropped the old girl off with my dealer before I went off for work. My wife dropped off the new solenoid and brake switch yesterday. I have a great dealer and was able to talk in detail to the service manger and mechanic so I feel confident they will have it all sorted out soon. My service manual came in right before I left and I feel pretty certain my ECU will have to be replaced. The mechanic said maybe not, that a re-flashing may do the trick, keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well it is fixed and as suspected the ECM had to be replaced. Lesson learned. Make sure you are plugging into the right plug if you are replacing the solenoid switch! I still don't know exactly what the other plug was but I will figure it out once I get home as I have a service manual now. Mechanic said brake switch was good that all they did was replace the ECM and solenoid and reflash and it was good to go.
 

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Bingo! Was afraid that was going to end up being the problem. Glad you're back up and rolling again! :victorious:
 
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