PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am the kind of guy that likes going above and beyond. If I am going to take the time to do something I want to do it right and to the best quality possible. When it came time to wire switches for accessories I knew I wanted to do them all at once and with factory like parts. Tonight I made a wiring harness for three switches which I documented in photos below. Enjoy.

What each pin on the back of the switch does:


The first factory style plug and bag of female ends ordered from OTRATTWs


A couple more plugs wired in series. The faded black wire will act as the ground for all these plugs:


The tool I used to crimp the connections:


A finished connection before being inserted in the plug:


Plus nearly done:


I cut the wires to length and them put them in the tip of an electric drill. Turned it on slowly and it does a nice twist:


I grouped the wires off to the side and put them in a wire loom. This is the same size wire loom already behind the dash for the two factory switches.


I put on ring connectors for connecting to the bus bar. Red will be keyed power, white is supposed to be connected to a light circuit but I believe I will put it to keyed power and faded black is the ground.


The back of all the switches:


The plugs all plugged in. You can buy these plugs in four or so different colors for a dollar each. Black plugs are .30 cheaper. I chose all white so I can write what each plug is for right on them.


And finally the switches in the off position. Originally the factory AWD switch and Headlight switches are in reverse order. I moved the headlight switch over because I wanted all the light switches to be near each other. They also all have blue LEDs. I plan on using the machine for plowing so the far right switch is red for flashing lights. The two outside lower switches are for heated seats. I bought the Polaris heated seat kit and they did not send along the switches so now I am waiting for them. The second switch from the left is the Warn winch switch. Sadly it is not lit like all the other switches. OTRATTWs doesn't make a winch switch I like as much. The next plain switch over is for my MotoAlliance Hydro turn for my plow. I paid $30 extra for the motoalliance switch but couldn't live with it not matching all the other switches so I swapped it for this momentary switch.


None of the switches on the lower row were included in my homemade harness because all four of those switches came with factory harnesses.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
906 Posts
Nice Installation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pohlease

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,815 Posts
Very nice work.

If you want the same Contura Winch switch, it is available from Polaris.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pohlease

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
I am thinking of adding a jumper from #2 to #6 for (+) power to the switch light - any downsides to this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Like Pohlease, I connected #7 and #8 to from each switch, daisy chain style, to a ground lug on the fuse block. However, I left an extra lead hanging out of the last daisy in the chain so that I could add another switch and not remove the terminal from the existing switch housings.
Like Pohlease, I connected all #6, daisy chain style, to the keyed hot lug on the terminal strip under the hood. I also left an extra lead hangout out here as well.
Unlike Pohlease, I connected all #2, with a dedicated home run per switch, back to a dedicated fuse on the fuse panel.
Each load was connected to #3. The ground for each load went back to the ground bus on the fuse panel.

I left about 6-8" of loop between all my daisy chains so that I could re-arrange the switches to any location in the dash to accommodate the mental illness of the day. And I have now re-arranged them 3 times as I added new switches.
I also soldered my terminals to the wires. Mega overkill perhaps... but my crimps did not inspire confidence.
Todd - thanks.

I am also going with individual home runs on #2 to fuse box and #3 to the load and then ground for that load back to my Blue Seas negative buss bar
Jumper 7 to 8 and daisy chain - thank you for the tip on leaving extra slack as well as an extra one hanging out of the last plug
for #6 still may pull this off of Pin #2 home run - but I may daisy chain this to a fused "switch lights" in the fuse box as you described

I moved my heated seat switches to the lower right of my panel to free up spaces on the dash on Sunday afternoon. I really want to keep all my switches the same - therefore I will end up with Contura X - as I could change out the Lights and MAYBE the seats (haven't found a switch body that acts like that 4 position switch yet) but the drive mode actuator is the one that I have not been able to find yet. Ideally would be Contura V or XIV but want them all to look the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Sneaky sneaky moving the mode switch. I have vents over there.

Do you have the switch number for the factory light switch?






IMG_4467.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hey just glad everyone's getting it done! Chat away!

I didn't run each switch to its own fuse because they are only tripping a relay in a relay box. The relay is fused prior to the device it is powering. I think adding a fuse to just protect the switch is overkill but never hurts to be careful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #8


This is the "Waterproof Fuse Relay Box" I am using. It is basically a generic sPod without the switch section for much less money. You have to pay an extra $10 for the guy to include long enough ground and power wires to each the battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I am thinking of adding a jumper from #2 to #6 for (+) power to the switch light - any downsides to this?
If I were to do it again I'd probably do this. Doing it separately makes sense in a car or something with separate dash lights but the dash lights in rangers are always on anyway. The LED lights in the switches are so low draw they wouldn't effect anything anyway. I have them on the same terminal on the fuse block so power is coming from the same place anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Factory Style Switch Wiring & OTRATTWs Switches

The factory switches and the Carling switches I bought are the "lower independent" style. Meaning the device being powered does not affect the lower lamp/LED.
When I turn my key on all the lower LEDs illuminate (which on my switches has the words describing what the switch does). When you turn the switch on, the upper LED illuminates.

Jumpering #2 to #6 kills this ability. Why would you want to do this?
My 2+6 are connected to the same power source and my switches have upper and lower LEDs also. The upper LED is still off until the switch is switched on just like you describe.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top