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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
what have you guys done to fix this if it has happened, is there a recall on the cheap thin metal they use to mount the front diff to, never beat on my ranger only used for plowing snow and dragging driveway and pulling a rough cut mower
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Hmmm, Your signature doesn't show what model ranger your have, Is it a Ford? What Year? A lot more info
will be needed? How many hours/miles? What plow do you use? Polaris or Other? When you say just plowing snow...This is probably the hardest thing you can do to your Ranger. Hit a chunk of frozen down Ice, all bets are off on what will give or break.

Dennis
 

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I don't claim to be an expert but after being an active Forum member for quite a while I can't remember reading about any similar event.

Just as Dbonzi suggests, when you post asking questions any information you can provide will be helpful in getting the best answer.

Based upon your picture and the equipment and skills I personally have, if this were my problem I would remove the front differential, put the machine on it's side, grind away all paint, rust and dirt, check for additional cracks and drill stop them, align the broken piece to it's original position using care to assure it is truly in the original position, tack weld on opposite sides assuring alignment remains correct, then fully weld the piece back in place. I would then grind my welds flush and fabricate a reinforcement of something like 12 gauge steel that laps over my welds to new material on the chassis to go on top of the original piece and weld that in place. The fabricated piece would likely have 3 or 4 holes in it through which I would plug weld to the original underlying piece that broke away. It would, of course, also have matching holes for the drain plug and differential mounting holes. Longer bolts would be found to attach the differential to the mount, some paint, reinstall the differential and call it done.

The plug welds may be overkill becasue the mounting bolts would go through the original and the fabricated reinforcement but they would make the two pieces "one" for the most part. I'd consider them added insurance.

As to why the break occurred to begin with, I doubt it has anything to do with using a plow or any load imparted by wheel torque. I would be looking at my universal joints and the fit of the yoke to the input shaft of the differential. Too much clearance at the yoke to shaft juncture could allow the propeller shaft to vibrate or actually swing around the center of rotation instead of within it. Universals that are shot or frozen place stresses on that area through vibration. To me that break almost looks more like metal fatigue due to vibration than it does a break from a one time stress.
 

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As a fabricator and welder I agree 100% with how Pyro describes best repair. Also I agree that vibration(oil canning) over time caused the damage and not impact. Plug welding would definitely make repair stronger as stated. I wouldn’t even grind welds flush unless they would interfere with any components as some grind to much to make it pretty, which weakens the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm, Your signature doesn't show what model ranger your have, Is it a Ford? What Year? A lot more info
will be needed? How many hours/miles? What plow do you use? Polaris or Other? When you say just plowing snow...This is probably the hardest thing you can do to your Ranger. Hit a chunk of frozen down Ice, all bets are off on what will give or break.

Dennis
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As a fabricator and welder I agree 100% with how Pyro describes best repair. Also I agree that vibration(oil canning) over time caused the damage and not impact. Plug welding would definitely make repair stronger as stated. I wouldn’t even grind welds flush unless they would interfere with any components as some grind to much to make it pretty, which weakens the repair.
My reason for grinding the welds flush is so that the new piece would fit flat on the original part with no space between them, not even that 1/16" - 3/32" the weld bead would hold it away.
 

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My reason for grinding the welds flush is so that the new piece would fit flat on the original part with no space between them, not even that 1/16" - 3/32" the weld bead would hold it away.
Oh I agree completely! When you mate two pieces that is definitely the way to go. I guess I was referring to when a nice weld bead is applied on the non mating surface and then one wants to grind that down flush too😁! We are on the same page.
 

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I had the same thing (broken mount) happen to mine, but it was already welded back in place when I got it. Needless to say, that the PO did not take as much pains to repair it as described above. I did not notice it was cracked until I tried to remove the bolts so I could take out the diff. They had welded the bolt head to the frame..... not a good day.
 

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I have just discovered the same type of breakage on my 2013 900xp yesterday . It is an almost identical break.
I started a separate post on it yesterday I didn't know this thread was here. I will post pictures later today showing repair.https://www.prcforum.com/threads/beware-of-frame-holding-front-diff.132290/unread

My theory is--it is a high torque situation----- when plowing using low range and in 4wd you come up to a snow bank trying to push the dead weight of the snow and you are not moving forward and the front wheels to lock in the front diff. causing the high twist to the right
Or just plowing very heavy snow, constantly engaging the front diff
 

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the patch replaces the section that was torn out it measured about 2x4 inches .
We cut a piece of plate the same thickness and fit it into place and added a extra rib for better strength.

Pictures of the repair
1st pic shows the rib that was added
2nd pic -red circle shows the patch that was put in and red line shows repair to secondary crack
 

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My 2013 did the same thing, Im just starting to make the repair on the front diff. The frame on the front diff support has completely broke off the frame and the front diff is basically floating. So it appears that I need to weld a complete new steel plate to the frame and bolt the front diff down to the added new frame support. Is this common issue?
 

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I'm just seeing it now.
Take the broken piece out ,use it as a pattern. trace it out on a new piece of plate and then before welding it in loosen the back bolts and make sure the diff. is sitting flat.then weld the piece into place.

Fabricate ribs across the new plate to beef it up and spread out the torsion. Don't place them too close to the bolts make sure you can fit a socket on them.
 
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