[jetmd]

Members,

I am new to the PRC Forum and need some help.
I just purchased my first UTV, a 2009 700XP with 293hrs on the clock.
And she needs some TLC, first item for me to address is the front
driveshaft, the differential side u-joint is shot. I have replaced
many u-joints on cars and truck so I am good with that. But my question
is what is the best way to gain access to remove the shaft assy. ?
Also looks like I might need to replace the differential seal at the yoke as
it is seeping just slightly.
I just purchased an owners manual as it did not come with one, and I am
looking to purchase a service manual also.
I will be looking to preform preventative maintance also as I did not receive
any maint. records when I purchased the unit, therefore fuild and filter
changes all around will be coming up also.
Thanks in advance for your help. All I can say is WOW is there a lot of
information on this forum site!!

Regards,

Chet

 

[rockn h]

This post may help on the driveshaft.driveshaft post

 

[commanderjjones]

Welcome aboard, Chet.

 

[crookedwrench]

Welcome Chet.

I replaced the ones in my 2010 800 last fall and had to remove the front differential. It sounds like you may need to do that anyway if your seal is seaping. Once front diff was out it came right out the front. I think an 09 will be the same but if not I'm sure someone on hear will let you know. Make sure you put greasable u joints back in.

 

[scottg985]

I am not a big fan of driving out that roll pin by hitting on the pinion bearing. That is just bad business there and asking for trouble down the road. I would remove the bumper and diff with drive shaft attached. Then you can properly support the yoke to drive the pin out and not hammer on the bearings. The yoke is cheap and I would replace that too. The reason is that the splines are probable worn also.

The manual tells you to drive out the roll pin and do some funky things to get the shaft out. There is no good way to get that pin out with the diff still in the machine. I did mine and it took longer to go that way than to just pull the diff. The driveshaft will slip off the transmission with no problem and it will all come out as one. Follow the manual and you will need 3 arms and a cussing jar.

 

[commanderjjones]

I agree about removing the diff'. Much easier than trying to wrestle with it.

Another tip.......after you remove it, ditch the crappy roll pin and replace it with a 5/16" fine thread x 2" long bolt and locknut. You'll be happy that you did if you ever have to remove it again. You'll probably see what I mean after you drive this one out.

 

[jetmd]

Thanks for the help gentlemen.

So who makes the best quality ujoints for this application?

I know All Balls racing has replacements, don't know if they
are greaseable or not?

Your recommendations are welcomed and appreciated.

 

[POS POLARIS]

I guess I might be the black sheep here, but I have no problem driving out the roll pin from underneath. sure it's harder on the pinion bearing, but if it goes bad you have to end up pulling the front diff anyway. I've done two rangers that way, and never had a bearing problem on the diff. dont know if you have access to an air hammer or not, but that's the best way to knock that roll pin loose. soaking it in some penetrating oil for a day or so will help too.

if the seal is just seeping slightly, I'm not sure I'd even worry about it. I've got a 2012 HD in the shop right now torn down all the way for steering rack work, and the pinion has about 1/8 inch of slop in it as is, and the yoke has more than that where it's splined on to the shaft. Warranty says let it ride, so we will until it gernades. a seep isn't a big deal, but a complete diff teardown is. these machines are not "precision" instruments, and will not perform as such even with polaris replacment parts.. especially when it comes to the drivetrain.