PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

Fuel Pump

11696 Views 43 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  pamorton74
Trying to find a cross refernce to the fuel pump in a 07 Ranger XP 700.
Polaris # 2 520 674
Bosch # F 01R BOS 096

I tried to use the search and it came up with pre 2006 and the 08 but not the 07. I looked at one this morning it was a Bosch 69480 but it was just the pump itself, didn't know if it was the whole assembly or just the pump.
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
A...............check for stored EFI codes......Trans in neutral...........rotate key to ON not start THREE times leaving the key in the ON position on the third rotation. ...........waite...........61 is END OF CODES . Watch the cluster for two digit codes...write em down........check em twice...

You could have a problem with the CRANK POSITION SENSOR /harness.
I tried this earlier and wrench icon flashed 10 times. After some research, I understood this to just mean a service reminder. I went through the steps to reset the hours and now I don't show any codes (or blinking wrench icon).
I have a question, i have a 2006 polaris ranger 700 xp and it has been running real bad, starts and idles fine but as soon as you give it gas it wants to die unless you give it alot of gas pedal but also runs horrible. it also backfires when it gets warmed up. only way to get it to move is to punch the gas pedal real hard or else it dies. been reading some of the other comments and appears that it problaly is the fuel pump. i replaced the tbap sensor only slightly made run better and put new gaskets on the muffler. when i took the pump out of the tank there is no float and arm mechanism. looks like there never was one but could that be a problem or is my pump and pressure sensor failing?
i also checked the service code with the blinking wrench and i got a 51 and 52.
Get the codes straightened out first. Then check your fuel pressure.

Pay close attention to this post. Jungleman knows his 💩.
Thanks for responding, a few other things. I also replaced the plugs and wires initially it was the first thing that came to me. But there is a worn spot on the right fuel injector wire from the air hose sitting on it, it doesn't seem to affect it while it's runnin. And I did notice that the fan has also not been running lately. So I am not sure, any ideas? I'll re-read the last comment you sent me RJ, thanks.
One other thing I forgot to add is the boot going from the throttle body to the head was cracked, i was able to get a new one, after replacing that, it made a big difference but not 100 percent.
Pam, a 2006 700 has no gas gauge so a float is not required. 51 & 52 are injector codes but a 2006 will also throw those when you have low fuel pressure although injector harness problems have been plentiful . Check the fuel pressure for 39 psi and make sure the black round canister filter above the fuel pump is not plugged or cracked. Happens all the time..

Soooooooooo, check the fuel pressure and rule it out first.

This is a also bit troubling " And I did notice that the fan has also not been running lately "

You need to verify that it is coming on when the engine is HOT ... Not with the key COLD . This is a sign that the PDM aka POWER MODULE is on its way out. The PDM distributes power to most everything on a 2005-2006 700 which includes the fan & fuel pump and the first sign that it is having a problem is normally the FAN not coming on...then fuel pump problems and then eventually nothing works.

Take it one thing at a time and eliminate what isn't causing a problem. and don't get over whelmed..

You need this 10 dollar pdf download service manual... : 2006 Polaris Ranger 700 4X4 XP Service Manual PDF Download
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Wow thanks jungleman that's alot, I'll have to get a fuel pressure gauge down at my local HF if that works and go from there. And also check to see if the pressure canister is not cracked or plugged and fan is turning on while hot.
Well I got into the ranger, here's what I found. I hooked up a furl pressure tester and I got nothing from it, wondering if it's even working? but I checked the blink code again now it's saying 21, I checked something online someone said to check the wire going to the boot of the throttle body and I found that the boot is cracked going into the throttle body, could that be my problem????
One other thing I tried is I took the fuel hose off of the tank and put a little hose on it and into a canister and turned the pump on and off to see if fuel is coming out and fuel is coming out but not a lot of pressure, I just don't know if my tester is working properly.
Sounds like you have multiple issues.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Do you think the tmap sensor is bad or dirty? I ordered a new boot which was kind of expensive, the one before the throttle body. The other one was cracked earlier and I had to replace that one too.
Pam.................... yoiu need to verify the fuel pressure and that the filter canister in the tank is not cracked/plugged. You need to do ALL THE MAINTENANCE that has been neglected for YEARS......... Replace the boot..........throttle body adapter....... clean/replace the TBAP ...................check the plug wires...........air filter.......check the TPS harness......CPS harness ........GET THE SERVICE MANUAL...

21 code is LACK OF SYNCHRONIZATION....which probably means the TPS settings and / or the TPS /harness need addressing . I have also seen a bad /rubbing chafing CRANK POSITION HARNESS cause the 21. You may need a new OEM TPS ..NOT A EBAY/AMAZON KNOCKOFF

Start addressing ONE THING AT A TIME.............GET A GOOD WORKING FUEL PRESSURE TESTER or change the pump/regulator and round black canister filter and move on>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Fuel should be JET BLASTING out of the fuel rail if you have 39 psi .

You are going to have to spend some money and there is no cheap ways to make a 700 run right. A dealer will charge you a couple hun JUST to get the Ranger into the shop and then the meter runs from there...

This is not brain surgery but you need to be thorough and follow through.. Document your moves so you can refer back..


We are here to help ...........
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Thanks jungleman, I am going to be heeding your advice.
I took off the cracked intake boot and the throttle body, it's pretty black and dirty inside so I'll try cleaning that up good while I wait for the new boot. I also noticed that the tmap censor, if that's what it's called on the boot, has a chafed yellow wire from the harness resting on it. Doesn't look like it went all the way through but it has some exposed wire to it, maybe causing some issues too?
I'll go back to check the pump out again and the pressure canister inside to see if it's cracked while I wait and try get my tester to work properly, think I may have it setup wrong.
I did buy new spark plug wires and plugs but have to admit they are cheaper than then the originals.
Should I try and clean the various censors with something? Carb cleaner?
I'm taking my time with this one, we have a second utv that we got recently but the Polaris has been a handy machine on the farm.
See less See more
Pam .............change that TBAP sensor harness..........Do it now... T-BAP Wiring Repair Harness

Yes, clean with Brake leaner..........MAPP cleaner........Carb Cleaner..... Something that WILL NOT leave a residue on the TMAP sensor....Not Wd-40 or paint thinner or ??? It probably needs replaced if it is original...
Ok, ordered manual and wiring harness but had another question. When I took the throttle cable off the throttle body, the little round ball inside on the end of the cable was not there, either it fell off and I didn't see it or wasn't in there. How would I get another, do I have to get a whole new cable?
PAM, ALWAYS PUT A TOWEL/RAG AROUND THE BASE OF THE TB WHEN YOU UNHOOK THE CABLE... Throttle Cable End Joint Guide Carburetor Body Nut Fit Polaris Suzuki Yamaha ATV | eBay
Thanks, if I can't find it I'll get a new one, I have to be more careful when taking things apart.
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top