[Studz]

It's time when you know enough is enough. Trans gear reduction or portal boxes. If anyone has done eather. Just wondering how much reduction I'm looking at. Dont care about top speed. Is low range never used. I was into rock crawling so I know how nice it is to have two t-cases

 

[alewis]

I have a turner gear reduction in the transmission - mine is the one for 34" tires. He makes one for 31s and 29.5s as well.

The 34" gear reduction is quite good - only drawback is that it puts stress on everything down from the gear reduction. That said my ranger will leave black marks on pavement with the 34s
Gear reduction lifts seem good but I'm waiting for them to get a few more of the issues worked out


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[ravencr]

alewis, I want to get a gear reduction for 2015 Ranger XP 900, as well. I'm only running 30" tires that measure out to about 28.5" in reality, but I'd like to get as low a gear reduction as possible, I think. Do you still like yours? Why'd you go with Turner over Super ATV, for example?


Chris

 

[alewis]

When I got mine turner was the only one that made them. It's for 34" tires and that's what I run... It would be too low for your tired. I suggest calling them to talk about it. They make a reduction for 40s if you want super low gearing.


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[ravencr]

I got my turner 34" gear reduction today. What's entailed to install this thing?

 

[Toxic-21]

I got my turner 34" gear reduction today. What's entailed to install this thing?

You will need to disassemble all components connecting to the Trans/rear end.
(Axles, electrical plugs, clutch etc.)
Drain fluid.
Remove bed for access.
Remove Trans.
Split Trans cases.
IMO I would purchase and install new bearings on the gear reduction.
Install gear reduction.
Reassemble and reinstall.

 

[ravencr]

Will I need any special tools? Will I need a press to do the bearings?

 

[Toxic-21]

Will I need any special tools? Will I need a press to do the bearings?

For what you are doing, you do not need any special tools.
I do recommend a service manual, do you have one?

A press is not required, you can press the bearings on in a vise. Do not damage them, and press on the inner race only.

There is a center distance tool for setting the distance between the output/input shafts ( motor/Trans) but it can be done without it. You just need to follow the torque sequences, measure and check belt alignment.
Most of this is a mute point due to the design of the center coupler that connects the motor and Trans.

When you pry the cases apart use the prying tabs ONLY on the case. These are the big tabs cast in both case halves.

 

[ravencr]

Sounds like a lot of work. Might tear it down and take it to the dealer for reassembly.

 

[Toxic-21]

Sounds like a lot of work. Might tear it down and take it to the dealer for reassembly.

If you are going to take the Trans to the dealer, I would take it as a complete assy, not in parts.
They might charge you more, I know I would.

 

[Hunterworks]

If you go to either, your clutch weights will need attention, they will need to be stock weights or heavier if you have a clutch kit. With all the load gone and lighter weights you will lose some belt grip.

Todd

 

[ravencr]

I was just thinking get it out of the machine and take the full trans to the dealer with the replacement gear set and have them do the swap. This way I can save some cash on the disassembly/reassembly of the Ranger to get it out.

Chris

 

[ravencr]

You will need to disassemble all components connecting to the Trans/rear end.
(Axles, electrical plugs, clutch etc.)
Drain fluid.
Remove bed for access.
Remove Trans.
Split Trans cases.
IMO I would purchase and install new bearings on the gear reduction.
Install gear reduction.
Reassemble and reinstall.

Sorry to sound stupid here, but I'll need to remove the entire clutch assembly, won't I? For that, I'll need a primary clutch puller, correct? Will I need to remove the plastic clutch cover backing? Where is the trans actually located in relation to all this? I've got a manual ordered, but won't be here for a week, so not excited about that.

Chris

 

[Hunterworks]

Sorry to sound stupid here, but I'll need to remove the entire clutch assembly, won't I? For that, I'll need a primary clutch puller, correct? Will I need to remove the plastic clutch cover backing? Where is the trans actually located in relation to all this? I've got a manual ordered, but won't be here for a week, so not excited about that.

Chris

Yes all of that has to come off, you will be separating the engine and transmission and taking it out

 

[ravencr]

If you go to either, your clutch weights will need attention, they will need to be stock weights or heavier if you have a clutch kit. With all the load gone and lighter weights you will lose some belt grip.

Todd

Yep, I just installed the RVS Performance tune, so I'm hoping with the raised rev limiter and full throttle plate opening in combination with the lower gears, it might be close, but I'm sure I'll have to adjust it some to dial it in.

Chris

 

[ravencr]

Yes all of that has to come off, you will be separating the engine and transmission and taking it out

K, sounds good. So, is the tranny directly behind the Primary or Secondary clutch? Is the tranny hard mounted to the rear differential? So, I'll need to disconnect the driveshaft to the front end, as well, right?

Chris

 

[Toxic-21]

K, sounds good. So, is the tranny directly behind the Primary or Secondary clutch? Is the tranny hard mounted to the rear differential? So, I'll need to disconnect the driveshaft to the front end, as well, right?

Chris

Yes, you will have to remove both primary and secondary so you can remove the back of the clutch cover.
The secondary is attached to the Trans/Rear diff.
Trans/Rear diff is a complete unit.
Yes you will disconnect the front prop shaft.

 

[Toxic-21]

Chris PM sent.