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Just wondering if anyone out there is producing a greasable bolt and bushing kit for a 2012 Ranger 800 XP?
This would seem to be an easy upgrade to the current system and would aleviate the need to drill and tap the A-arms.
 

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I tried to get my machine shop buddy to make me a kit over a year ago, maybe he could even sell this but sadly he was not interested, has to much work now. I think this is a better way to go because you can direct the grease exactly where it should go and much easier to get the gun on. He did tell me that several companies make predrilled bolts but need to remove them to size and I'm not going into mine till spring.
 

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He did tell me that several companies make predrilled bolts but need to remove them to size and I'm not going into mine till spring.
You should be able to determine what bolts are used w/o removing them. Check the hex size w/ a wrench or socket which will tell you what thread size the bolt is (9/16" hex = 3/8" bolt, 3/4" hex = 1/2" bolt, etc'). You should be able to measure the length "under" the hex w/ a 6" scale.
 

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i dunno bout yinz, but mine are metric.. They're a fine threaded M10 i believe. Might be M12, but im thinking M10..like 99% sure. They take a 15mm socket (a-arms that is) to be super exact, i think they're M10x1.5...but...check your machine for sure.
 

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On the other hand...one REALLY expensive option (that im currently in process of doing now) is upgrading to "super daves bushings" just a thought. They're supposed to be superior to all the other bushings. Time will tell, but they sure do seem promising!
 
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Drilling and taping them is pretty easy, however I can't see where doing it kept the bushings from wearing out slower. I have the full Super Dave kit I am about to install and see how that goes.
 

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I have Dave Super Bushings and have been running them in all the wet weather we had this spring and early summer and haven't put grease on them since I did when I installed them. Not a single squeeks out of them. I couldn't go through a one ride without greasing all of the stock bushings. Great product so far.
 

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I just installed garage products a-arm bushings and super daves greasable ball joints on my 2011 800 XP. I already have grease zerks on my a-arms, but I greased the bushing pins well during installation and according to garage products it is not necessary to grease them afterwards. The OEM (gray bushings) on mine were still in good shape at 3700 miles, but they have squeaked alot since my machine was new. I could stop the squeaking only by greasing them on a regular basis. So far the new bushings have no squeaks but I haven't been in any mud lately so the true test will be upcoming hunting season.

As far as using the drilled bolts, I guess that would be okay. It is really not that hard to install the grease zerks in the a-arms, you just have to remove the a-arms which is not difficult, just takes a little time. The main problem my machine had was the lower front bolt was not removable without taking the front bumper off. I solved that issue by cutting it off and installing a new bolt from the other direction.
 

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I've had the Super Dave bushings in mine for almost 2 years and they are still in great shape (had it apart a couple of weeks ago to fix some elongated holes in the mounts that weld to the frame). They are MUCH better than OEM and well worth the money.
 
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Not sure of the dynamics involved, but I would be concerned about putting a drilled bolt, even if one were available, in that location. There's a heck of a lot of force on them and a drilled bolt has to be weaker than a solid one--even if it were a high strength grade 8 or something similar. I would go with drilled arms and zerks! ...or like Jerry recommends, the Dave's bushings--they claim they do not require grease.
 

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.....a drilled bolt has to be weaker than a solid one--even if it were a high strength grade 8 or something similar.......
I agree.......and the bolt is only 10mm......so even if you only make a 1mm hole, you've still reduced the bolt strength by more than 10%.
 

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I agree with the guys who suggested better bushings. I did the front of mine with Garage Products yesterday, the difference in fit/quality is obvious.
 

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It was just an idea I had, have done this before many times over the years, the biggest reason I haven't done it yet is time, well and the fact will probably get a new 900 next year. As for weaking the bolt, not as much as you would think, grade 8 is case hardened so the center is softer but the downfall is they have little pull strength and a bitch to drill, grade 5 has a bit more flex before breaking and probably a better choice since shear strength is not critical. Now I did find some predrilled bolts but never researched enough to see if I could get the right size, these were drilled then hardened and had a nice reses for the zerk.
 

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to much info out there about SD bushings to go wrong with, along with testimonies and stuff from good sources. Im glad i spend the 310 bucks for my midsize, it'll be money in the bank after 1 year.. i went through about 3 sets (whole way around) in a years time. then 2 more before i switched to SD.

interested to see how the "garage products" hold up....never heard of em.
 

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They're pretty big in the RZR world, basically SD plus an o-ring seal from what I understand.
 

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I noticed a significant wear between the bolts and sleeves (factory). I am having a hard time visualizing how greasing the A-arm would get grease to this wear surface...maybe just me. The wear I see on the bushings maybe could be helped with grease, which would get to this location with the A-arm zerks, but I don't know.
 
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