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Discussion Starter #42
I am located in Kansas.

10.2:1 compression is what is stated in the manual. That comes out to 150psi. The engine has 180psi without the decompressor operating.

I have started disassembly of the engine. Cylinder looks good, piston is in the correct orientation. When I get the cylinder off I will measure the height of it compared to the OEM cylinder.

I bought this niche cylinder because the original was scored badly and unusable without boring.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I finished tearing the motor down last night. Piston looks brand new, rings look brand new, and cylinder does too. The only thing I found not 100% correct was the crank case vent hose (which you can see in the picture above). The clamp had partially come off and the hose was only halfway on the nipple coming from the crank case. I can't imagine that would have caused any issues with running though.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
It is reassembled and still running the same.....and now the thermostat housing is leaking. FML
 

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Discussion Starter #46
It has an OEM cylinder, OEM gaskets, and after market cam and rockers. Compression is down to around 65psi now when testing, right in line with what the manual says.
 

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IMHO, you are focusing on the wrong area. There appears to be nothing mechanically wrong with the cylinder, piston or rings or the reassembly. Did you ever check the valve spring pressures? Springs can lose tension after a time, especially if there was ever an overheating problem. Low spring pressure = valve float at lower RPM = power loss. If the springs are within factory spec, it's likely the problem lies elsewhere.

Inadequate fuel supply to the carburetor, weak ignition coils, plug wires, resistor spark plug boots, wiring harness problem, low voltage/bad battery, intake air leak, partially obstructed exhaust system etc. It's time to move on to other possible sources of trouble. It was running well before you took it apart and it ran good for 3-4 days after your initial repair, then the owner said it had no power (according to your initial post). That leads me to believe that something else failed. It's an older machine subject to have concurrent failures of various systems.
 

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I'm with pyro on the thought of a different problem just happened to occur. I didn't go though every page but have the clutches been looked at? I just had one come in with the complaint of "it's just not going as fast as it used to, feels low on power". I pulled the secondary apart and all of the buttons and screw heads fell out and on the bench. Between the buttons, screw heads and metal on metal contact of the ramps the clutch wouldn't open up all of the way. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I just read a post on here about the hard boot between the carb and head leaking. So I will check that tonight with some brake clean. I know clutches have been replaced recently. I know for sure the primary, not sure about the secondary.
 

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We had to replace the clutch on DH357's '05 Ranger. It suddenly, after letting some friends ride it, didn't have any power and would barely pull itself. Come to find out all the buttons were worn off the clutch. My point is, rebuilt engine, more power, someone getting on the skinny pedal a little too much, or driving in high at low speeds up a hill and there goes the clutch or the belt that may have been iffy in the first place but barely hanging on. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
You check the vent line to atmosphere, diaphragm and slide/needle? I had to use needle nose vice grips to remove screws on diaphram. Drilled a small hole in brass plug and used a screw to pull out plug on pilot. A good cleaning and inspection is where I would be going at this point.
What is the correct assembly of the needle, spring and plastic pieces? My service manual does not show an expanded view of it. Currently (from the top down) spring, plastic piece spring sits on, e-clip (3rd position),needle. Diaphragm is sealed everywhere, just don't know how to check if it is actually functioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
We had to replace the clutch on DH357's '05 Ranger. It suddenly, after letting some friends ride it, didn't have any power and would barely pull itself. Come to find out all the buttons were worn off the clutch. My point is, rebuilt engine, more power, someone getting on the skinny pedal a little too much, or driving in high at low speeds up a hill and there goes the clutch or the belt that may have been iffy in the first place but barely hanging on. Just my 2 cents.
Both clutches are new, within 6 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I'm with pyro on the thought of a different problem just happened to occur. I didn't go though every page but have the clutches been looked at? I just had one come in with the complaint of "it's just not going as fast as it used to, feels low on power". I pulled the secondary apart and all of the buttons and screw heads fell out and on the bench. Between the buttons, screw heads and metal on metal contact of the ramps the clutch wouldn't open up all of the way. Just a thought.
Do you need a special puller to get the secondary off? Primary and Secondary are both fairly new. I think my next step is check for fuel delivery issues. Is there a way to check for issues with the vacuum slide? Or even to be able to tell if it is opening as it should?
 

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Do you need a special puller to get the secondary off?

No.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Today I made a list of things to check from what I have learned on here.

I took the fly wheel cover off so I could eye ball the center line from the cam to the crank. Timing is good.

Pulled exhaust and checked for blockages. There were none.

Checked transmission selector to see if it needed adjustment. It is good.

Checked both crank case and oil tank breather check valves. Both allow air to flow both directions. I assume that is not ideal because it could suck water/dirt into the engine. I don't think that will affect how it runs.

I still need to pull the secondary clutch off and check it. Visually I see some small cracks in what I think is the stationary ramp housing behind the inner sheave. Again, I don't think that will affect how the clutch operates.

I still need to rig up a gravity fed fuel supply so the fuel pump can be ruled out as an issue.

I did drill out the plug for the pilot screw, but since it is almost impossible to get to and adjust while the engine is warm and running, I have left it alone. Again, it ran good before I rebuilt the engine.

Anything else I need to check?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #58
We had to replace the clutch on DH357's '05 Ranger. It suddenly, after letting some friends ride it, didn't have any power and would barely pull itself. Come to find out all the buttons were worn off the clutch. My point is, rebuilt engine, more power, someone getting on the skinny pedal a little too much, or driving in high at low speeds up a hill and there goes the clutch or the belt that may have been iffy in the first place but barely hanging on. Just my 2 cents.
Attached are the pictures of the secondary pulled apart. The buttons are still in 1 piece but are worn badly on one side. Could this possibly be the issue?

clutch2.jpg clutch1.jpg
 

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We had a dealer replace the one on DH357's Ranger, maybe some of the "clutch experts" will chime in.
 
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