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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I am not certain where this post belongs if this is not it please forgive me and point me in the right direction.
I have a 1999 ranger 6x6 that has been sitting in a shed for 3 years. I have it running and moving good just need to change fluids and grease job.
it will run good but wont stop, the brake pedal is very, very hard to push and only moves 1/8 to 1/4 inch. the reservoir is full and looks like new. Anyone have any ideas about what's going on? Any and all suggestions or recommendations is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Sounds like the pistons in the calipers are frozen up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks Battle Born, Would that be different from driving it? I have ridden around in my pasture just to see how things would do. Also a little in reverse but not very far maybe 40-50 ft.
 

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Wilber, take the cap off the reservoir and pull the calipers. Now, get a c- clamp and try to squeeze the pistons back into the calipers. It may be all you need to break them free.
 

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Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it can absorb moisture from air, even in an enclosed brake system. It is very possible that your fluid has absorbed enough moisture to cause rust and or corrosion to form in calipers and the master cylinder.

Usually the fluid will no longer be clear and clean looking but rather amber or brown and if drained may even separate into some layers if a lot of water has infiltrated the system. Since it is good practice to replace brake fluid every year or so, begin with fluid replacement and bleeding the entire system until clean fluid is emitted from ever bleeder and then see if the caliper pistons actually move by pushing them back into the caliper cylinders as if you were going to change pads. If you find that the pistons are difficult to move you have found at least a portion of your problem, in which case it is time for either new calipers or an overhaul.

I don't know what Polaris offers as far as overhaul kits so that will play a part in how your proceed. If you find that he pistons are difficult to move in the calipers I suggest you disassemble them before buying parts. Upon disassembly you may find that the pistons or calipers have been so damaged by corrosion that repair is not possible.

During the bleeding process you should be able to determine whether the master cylinder is the problem. With the bleeder screws open you brake pedal should move freely as it pumps fluid out through the bleeder screw.
 

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thanks Battle Born, Would that be different from driving it? I have ridden around in my pasture just to see how things would do. Also a little in reverse but not very far maybe 40-50 ft.
If it’s moving without binding, you have either a seized brake piston or a seized master cylinder.


EDIT:
I’m 98% sure it’s the master cylinder. Disconnect the pedal from the armature and give the armature a pull with a set of pliers. If it doesn’t move in and out fairly freely, it’s a goner.
Actually, poke your head under the dash and press the brake pedal paying close attention to the armature. You’ll know right away

2016 Mid life crisis
 

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Discussion Starter #12
what I thought, should go in and out with no restriction after losening brake line at any wheel. Correct?
 

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what I thought, should go in and out with no restriction after losening brake line at any wheel. Correct?
Not sure on your model.

The brake pedal must be depressed to start both of my rangers. If the master cylinder locked up, would not be able to start it.




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If the master cylinder is working shouldn't at least one brake of four work? Pressure on the start switch doesn't mean the master is free. Not sure what that armature thingy does... Please tell!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will try it ASAP, I am not the fastest in the world, disabled senior about 1/2 blind back and hips dictate what I do and when. thanks guys. I was wondering if this other problem I have could possibly tie in and effect the brake problem. The neutral light stays on while in D1 or D2 unless you push the shift lever forward and hold it forward, if you release the shifter light comes back on. Same way for the AWD light, turn the shifter loose and the light goes out. Not certain wether the front wheels engage, after sitting for so long with old or no fluids I didn't want to push my luck. Anyone experience this problem? Solution? Thanks all.
 

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Fix the brakes first! Lol. Open one bleeder valve and if your brake pedal doesn't bottom, it's your master cylinder. I know what you mean. Hate being under a vehicle and wondering what I did with my glasses!
 

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If the master cylinder is working shouldn't at least one brake of four work? Pressure on the start switch doesn't mean the master is free. Not sure what that armature thingy does... Please tell!
That’s where I’m at with it.
I’m pretty much stuck on the master cylinder being the issue. But I’m wrong often, ask Mrs.Born


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Discussion Starter #19
Hello All, Trust everyone had a good day, As for me yes. I took the tubing coming from the Master Cylinder loose under the hood where it goes off to the brakes, i thing that may be the brake light sending unit. Anyway it kept me from crawling under the thing. i tried to press the brake pedal, no luck, no fluid out the tubing end. I took the MC off and started working it in and out adding brake fluid until it finally freed up. But i am getting small bits of trash kinda looks like rust out each time i clean and work it. Each time there is less and smaller trash that comes out. The little jet hole is open and working as the hole that feeds the fluid from the reservoir. They did not work when I took it off. I played it safe and used brake fluid, brake part cleaner would probably do a lot better job but i didn't risk using it until one of you guys say its ok. I believe the problem was the MC and hopefully have solved that part. i hope the brakes are free and operative I guess time will tell. I have not put the MC back on in case someone condemns it or give me farther instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Battle Born, I really do like the diagrams you were using, where can I get a manual like this? Of course I need the parts list and explanation to go along with it. I would really like to have a service and repair manual that explains whats going on and why.
 
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