My skills are clearly limited. I mounted my sr 10 rigid combo light which i think is 2.6 amps to the bumper of my ranger but then things went downhill and it is now sitting with wires unattached. I know how to connect the wires to the battery and have a quick connect plug for the light but where are u folks running the wires to get to the battery? Seems like most places are sealed and i cant get the wires thru the firewall. The switch is amother concern i have. How do i get behind the dash and moint a switch? Wish i would have asked before i started this project bc i am not at home with ranger it is At deer camp and may not get it done.
Help wiring light bar located on bumper
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My 13 900 has a grommet under hood to get threw fire wall, then the 4 push pins on top of dash take them out and then take top off you can take switch panel off now, then take the 4 push pins out center floor hump to get wires to battery.
Ok, this is a good start. So feed wires into front hood, then thru grommet, which i now found, this will allow me to get to switch panel after pulling top panel and switch cover off via push pins. From here, how do i get to the battery. Am i going straight down from switch panel toward floor where the push panel is to get to the battery?
Also, dont like my aftermarket switch, it sticks out and is not lite. Is there a switch you recommend?
Also, dont like my aftermarket switch, it sticks out and is not lite. Is there a switch you recommend?
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Any carling type switch will work. I order my switches from e bay. Air on board has a good variety of specific switches. Under hood is a fuse relay that is keyed hit for accessories
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There is a 3 post block under hood that has a keyed hot if all you hook up is that one light bar you can just hook it up to that only.
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Do you have a picture of this block or where it's at ?
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I seen that today I thought it was a ground. . That might be a better option to get my key on power for my lights in my swtichs I have 4 of them.
I got my light working thanks to the assistance here, thank you. Of the 3 posts, only one is hot when the key is on and it is connected to a 20 amp fuse under the passenger seat called accessory. I figured this out bc i blew a fuse, not sure how or why but my passenger was turning the light bar on and off so maybe that popped it. Connecting to this post sure made wiring a breeze, never had to send wires to the battery, any drawbacks to this setup? Not sure if i will bow more fuses or not. Light bar works good, not nearly as bright as double row lights but very long range and good brightness w only 2.6 amp draw.
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It will be fine if that's all you run off that post.
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That terminal block is real handy! However, there are some caveats to it. On earlier models, all three terminals came from the factory pre-wired. Somewhere along the line (2013?) Polaris decided to stop wiring the ground (middle) and 'Always Hot' (left in Slim's picture). The Keyed Hot will always be pre-wired and can be identified by an orange wire coming off of it. If you order some Polaris accessories (radio, winch, ?), the dealer will add another harness that comes off the battery and makes the Always Hot and ground usable to you.
As Redfish1 discovered, the Keyed Hot stud is protected by a 20 amp fuse and that circuit also feeds the accessory (cigarette lighter) plugs in your cabin and on some models, it also feeds the AWD switch. So if you are going to use the Keyed Hot stud, you have some math to do! The total of all the accessories, whatever you have plugged into the cigarette lighters, and the AWD drive activation (I'm guessing 2 or 3 amps) cannot exceed 20 amps - at least, no more that 20 amps used at the same time.
If your terminal block is not completely wired, you can order the harness from your dealer, or you can make your own pretty easily. There is no pre-wired circuit for the 'Always Hot' so the only amp limitation is the size of the cable feeding the stud. If you use 6ga cable, you should be good up to ~61 total amps.
As Redfish1 discovered, the Keyed Hot stud is protected by a 20 amp fuse and that circuit also feeds the accessory (cigarette lighter) plugs in your cabin and on some models, it also feeds the AWD switch. So if you are going to use the Keyed Hot stud, you have some math to do! The total of all the accessories, whatever you have plugged into the cigarette lighters, and the AWD drive activation (I'm guessing 2 or 3 amps) cannot exceed 20 amps - at least, no more that 20 amps used at the same time.
If your terminal block is not completely wired, you can order the harness from your dealer, or you can make your own pretty easily. There is no pre-wired circuit for the 'Always Hot' so the only amp limitation is the size of the cable feeding the stud. If you use 6ga cable, you should be good up to ~61 total amps.
This is the switch i am going to install, cole hersee. It is rated for 25 amps and has some illumination. I paid way too much, $25 from west marine, they are about double others.
Question, what do you use to cut out the hole formthe switch and do you glue or seal in into the dash?
Question, what do you use to cut out the hole formthe switch and do you glue or seal in into the dash?
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JMO, I would purchase the Carling X switch from OTRATTW.com, it is the exact same switch that is in your dash now.
You will use a carpet knife with a new blade, the switch has locking tabs on the top, no glue required.
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