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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am at wits end. I have a 2011 800XP that ran great until recently. It started idling rough and high and very hard to shift. I replaced the TPS harness with no change. I took it to the dealer, TWICE, and he could find nothing wrong. It does not through a code. The dealer suggested replacing the throttle body to the tune of $500.00. For now, I have to turn it off, shift gears, then re-crank it. HELP!!! Duck season is here! Thank you.
 

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Do a search on IAC sensor and Tbap harness. Seems like one of those is always the problem. DONT let the dealer soak you for a throttle body just yet. Im sure one of the electrical gurus will be on here to help you shortly.
 

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2 things.

Take off the IAC valve ... it's the one with 3 Phillips head screws on the passenger side of the throttle body, towards the top and rear of it. when you pull it out take some brake or carb cleaner and clean up the bore good, and the little plunger on the valve. the slightest amount of gunk will cause an air leak and a high idle.

Next remove the T bap ( in front of the throttle body in the rubber boot, held in with 1 bolt) sensor and clean the part that goes into the boot with some brake/carb/ electronics cleaner. these can get gunked up in time and give false readings.

Might be best to disattach the throttle body when doing this so you don't put too much cleaner down the intake to the engine. dont' want it injesting too much and bending a rod or something. I'd leave the throttle cable hooked up and clean the bore of the throttle body while you're there.

I bet it takes care of your problem, it did on my 2011.... and mine was doing it especially when cold and usually went away when fully warmed up, but not always. since I've cleaned the IAC, the problem left and hasn't come back.
 

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Strange! I started it up sunday, started fine, idled at 1800 for a few minute or so and then down to 1250, and no service engine light. I'm stumped, does it take a while for the computer to clear the code and to return to normal operation? I hope so but I really doubt it. I'll find out on the weekend I guess.
 

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Guys,
Just as a "side note" anyone having this problem in the field (until it gets fixed) should shut the machine off.....shift...and then restart in gear to change between gears, this move may help you save wear and tear on the Trans and Belt.
 

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just checked the code for the light that was still on....O 520207 5. It says all wheel drive, never touched anything else other than the iac, what gives? Really getting tired of this machine
Did you clean The T-BAP sensor yet ? Did you check it for chafed/broken wire ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well,I just cleaned the IAC and T-bap and ran my machine for an hour. It idles fine until it reaches operating temperature, then it idles 2200-2300 rpms. I am wits end. I used to love my Ranger but not so much now.
 

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