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I just had this problem and found multiple wires that had their insulation rubbed off (TPS and IAC harnesses). On mine the wire ties were the culprits. Wrapped each wire with electrical tape and re-zip tied them differently so hopefully I won't have this issue again.

Another way to get around shutting it down each time you need to shift I found was to simply engage the parking break and it would go right down to 1250 RPMs and then I could shift like normal.
 

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I just cut the wires back to the main harness and left a short tail on the clips for the tips and IAC harnesses and put new wire in place of the bad spots where the wire ties rubbed them too. But I'm still having an issue with it revving up to 2500 rpms but can't find the issue. Maybe I need to replace the harness plugs. I did pull the tips and IAC and clean them both. I am also having a code of 51 which is the TPS voltage too high code. And the wire on the clip to the harness seems to be bad tight to the plastic clip part. Just ordered the new harness kit from OTBPowersports.com. Hope it gets here fast.
 

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The new harness repair clip took care of the problem completely. Very good product from otbpowersports. I emailed them and asked them if they offered a IAC harness repair kit and they said they were working on one. Hopefully soon.
 

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I replaced the IAC harness and now I'm replacing the tps harness. I just noticed that I'm getting the code 51 as well. I might just trade this in once I get these issues fixed for a new 900.
 

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I replaced the IAC harness and now I'm replacing the tps harness. I just noticed that I'm getting the code 51 as well. I might just trade this in once I get these issues fixed for a new 900.
A code 51 is an injector code......better check the fuel pressure.
 

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2 things.

Take off the IAC valve ... it's the one with 3 Phillips head screws on the passenger side of the throttle body, towards the top and rear of it. when you pull it out take some brake or carb cleaner and clean up the bore good, and the little plunger on the valve. the slightest amount of gunk will cause an air leak and a high idle.

Next remove the T bap ( in front of the throttle body in the rubber boot, held in with 1 bolt) sensor and clean the part that goes into the boot with some brake/carb/ electronics cleaner. these can get gunked up in time and give false readings.

Might be best to disattach the throttle body when doing this so you don't put too much cleaner down the intake to the engine. dont' want it injesting too much and bending a rod or something. I'd leave the throttle cable hooked up and clean the bore of the throttle body while you're there.

I bet it takes care of your problem, it did on my 2011.... and mine was doing it especially when cold and usually went away when fully warmed up, but not always. since I've cleaned the IAC, the problem left and hasn't come back.
I'm trying to do this to mine. The screws on the IAC motor are trying to strip on me. I've stopped until I can get replacements. Local dealer is out of stock and so is fix my toys. Any idea what size and thread pitch these are? Hoping I can pick up some at the local hardware store.
 

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I have been having the same problem with my UTV polaris 2013 800efi. I did everything that was suggested, changed out all three sensors on the throttle box no change. The fix was taken the throttle box out and cleaning the shit out of it, what is going on is the butterfly is getting varnish up and not closing like it should. I put the original sensors back in changed out the air filter works like a champ. Keep in mind that the TPS has to be put back in the same position (market it). Hopefully this will help
 
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