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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok figure out exactly what u need

2~ 3/4 pipe couplings

2~2" PVC couplings

1~2" PVC think 12" the short piece at lowes only really need 8" tops


Pipe Muffler Table Automotive exhaust Exhaust system




first off the pipe couplings are cast so the imperfections will needed to be filed down for a good flat surface

Auto part Rim Metal



now cut ur PVC to fit best way to make a straight cut is to knock the PVC into the coupling "make sure its all the way in to the stop" also after marking it the best way to cut a good straight line is to make a bunch of cuts .. make a cut as in the pic an rotate the make a cut ect..


Material property Auto part Cylinder




Next glue the PVC into the couplings dunno if every one dose this but it don't hurt

after that, cut them the best way to do this true is to cut to the longer side of the casting line in my case I don't now if all the coupling are the same but to the right of the nub pictured


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Pipe Metal


two will be 1/16 longer pick two that match

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire


that's it stacked with a SATV lift to get 4" total pretty happy with it an for CHEAP!

Text Receipt Font Number



hope this helps Thanks RumRunner!
 

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But you'll need different axles for this overall mod correct!??!!? just so ppl know for sure..there's been alot of midsize axle issues with lifts that modify factory specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well I have a rhino on one side and factory one the other we will see what one will last longer as u may know I believe rhinos are a pos but I belive the stocks will last
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
also I don't like how the PVC spacer moves around goin make a steel replacement / fix for it after some more R&D im goin probly make a few if I do
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im not sre on the best height for the spring spacer an the strut spacer right now the are both 1" 1/2
 

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Looks damn good, I was planning on doing this but can't seem to get off my butt to do it lol. Only thing I'm not gonna do is add the bottom strut spacer, that's just asking for a snapped axle
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
all I did is jack my shocks up in the rear an it an to low in the rear
 

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Here are the High Lifter front spacers out of their 2" Signature Series Lift Kit. The internal 1 5/16" internal spacer is cad plated steel and necessary for shock canister support. It inserts inside the strut below the shock canister. The 2" external spring perch spacer is billet aluminum. I clear anodized it. Notice the 1/8" lip that retains the spring in place. As per their instructions you retain the OEM spring perch washer. The 2" spacer sits between the OEM washer and the bottom of the spring.

My recommendation for those making DIY lifts is to consider the internal spacer as well. There have been complaints of "knocking" on full compression or rebound in DIY kits without the internal spacers.

I followed the High Lifter installation instructions to a tee. Except instead of a block of wood and another jack to reseat the strut & shock canister in an upward manner:
- reinstalled the hub and brake disk.
- placed the rim and tire flat, centered under the strut.
- placed a 2x4 on top of the rim and tire.
- slowly lowered the side so that the 2x4 contacted the hub. with the strut centered in the rim
- tightened the strut clamp bolts to the correct torque.

I found this method more exacting by making sure the shock canister was seated on the internal spacer. I had tried jacking the strut up, as per the instructions, but found there was no way to tell when and IF the shock canister was seated correctly.

Did one side at a time.

Plastic Auto part Metal
 

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The inner spacer has nothing to do with the knocking sound. The knocking sound is coming from the spring moving around on top of the spring spacer. The only reason yours doesn't do that is cause of that nice lip around outside of spacer, it keeps the spring centered and keeps the spacer from moving too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that's what the 3/4 pipe coupling is for under the strut
 

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The only thing that coupling under the strut does is makes you retain factory ride instead of having the spring puck compress the spring and ride like crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well if u just put the spacer in you would probly maxed out on your shock travel there for gaining no more lift at a certain point if u more the shock up aswell as the spring u get factory ride an not have to worry about maxing your shock out
 

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Exactly!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
im thinking of builing a 3" one an build my a arms to suit
 

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Yep me and ydopen are in the process of coming up with something for us in the 3"-4" range
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
im think 5'' lift is possible combined with the SATV lift
 
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