here is how to install it http://www.highlifter.com/pdf/installpdf/PLK400R-50.pdf
Home made 2'' lift for the front / sturt spacer
ok figure out exactly what u need
2~ 3/4 pipe couplings
2~2" PVC couplings
1~2" PVC think 12" the short piece at lowes only really need 8" tops
![Pipe Muffler Table Automotive exhaust Exhaust system]()
first off the pipe couplings are cast so the imperfections will needed to be filed down for a good flat surface
![Auto part Rim Metal]()
now cut ur PVC to fit best way to make a straight cut is to knock the PVC into the coupling "make sure its all the way in to the stop" also after marking it the best way to cut a good straight line is to make a bunch of cuts .. make a cut as in the pic an rotate the make a cut ect..
![Material property Auto part Cylinder]()
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Next glue the PVC into the couplings dunno if every one dose this but it don't hurt
after that, cut them the best way to do this true is to cut to the longer side of the casting line in my case I don't now if all the coupling are the same but to the right of the nub pictured
![Gas]()
![Pipe Metal]()
two will be 1/16 longer pick two that match
![Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire]()
that's it stacked with a SATV lift to get 4" total pretty happy with it an for CHEAP!
![Text Receipt Font Number]()
hope this helps Thanks RumRunner!
2~ 3/4 pipe couplings
2~2" PVC couplings
1~2" PVC think 12" the short piece at lowes only really need 8" tops
first off the pipe couplings are cast so the imperfections will needed to be filed down for a good flat surface
now cut ur PVC to fit best way to make a straight cut is to knock the PVC into the coupling "make sure its all the way in to the stop" also after marking it the best way to cut a good straight line is to make a bunch of cuts .. make a cut as in the pic an rotate the make a cut ect..
Next glue the PVC into the couplings dunno if every one dose this but it don't hurt
after that, cut them the best way to do this true is to cut to the longer side of the casting line in my case I don't now if all the coupling are the same but to the right of the nub pictured
two will be 1/16 longer pick two that match
that's it stacked with a SATV lift to get 4" total pretty happy with it an for CHEAP!
hope this helps Thanks RumRunner!
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
in the bucket club now hahaha
![Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive tire]()
Here are the High Lifter front spacers out of their 2" Signature Series Lift Kit. The internal 1 5/16" internal spacer is cad plated steel and necessary for shock canister support. It inserts inside the strut below the shock canister. The 2" external spring perch spacer is billet aluminum. I clear anodized it. Notice the 1/8" lip that retains the spring in place. As per their instructions you retain the OEM spring perch washer. The 2" spacer sits between the OEM washer and the bottom of the spring.
My recommendation for those making DIY lifts is to consider the internal spacer as well. There have been complaints of "knocking" on full compression or rebound in DIY kits without the internal spacers.
I followed the High Lifter installation instructions to a tee. Except instead of a block of wood and another jack to reseat the strut & shock canister in an upward manner:
- reinstalled the hub and brake disk.
- placed the rim and tire flat, centered under the strut.
- placed a 2x4 on top of the rim and tire.
- slowly lowered the side so that the 2x4 contacted the hub. with the strut centered in the rim
- tightened the strut clamp bolts to the correct torque.
I found this method more exacting by making sure the shock canister was seated on the internal spacer. I had tried jacking the strut up, as per the instructions, but found there was no way to tell when and IF the shock canister was seated correctly.
Did one side at a time.
![Plastic Auto part Metal]()
My recommendation for those making DIY lifts is to consider the internal spacer as well. There have been complaints of "knocking" on full compression or rebound in DIY kits without the internal spacers.
I followed the High Lifter installation instructions to a tee. Except instead of a block of wood and another jack to reseat the strut & shock canister in an upward manner:
- reinstalled the hub and brake disk.
- placed the rim and tire flat, centered under the strut.
- placed a 2x4 on top of the rim and tire.
- slowly lowered the side so that the 2x4 contacted the hub. with the strut centered in the rim
- tightened the strut clamp bolts to the correct torque.
I found this method more exacting by making sure the shock canister was seated on the internal spacer. I had tried jacking the strut up, as per the instructions, but found there was no way to tell when and IF the shock canister was seated correctly.
Did one side at a time.
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
