The diamond plate I used is 36 inches by 64 inches by 1/8 inch (11 gauge). The sides and the back have 1.5 inches of material at aproximately a 45 degree angle, the front is 6 inches and the angle matches the front of the cage. My 120 volt welder can't weld that thick of aluminum. So to get the edges to bend I used my 4.5 inch grinder with a metal cutting blade and carefully cut part way through the backside of the diamond plate and bent it down by hand. I then preheated the cuts and welded them, then ground the crappy weld job smooth to make it look nicer. It was the first time I tried to weld aluminum, so it wasn't pretty. To attach it to the roll cage I took 1/4 inch by 2 inch U-bolts and cut one leg off to make J-bolts. I slipped 1/4 inch clear tubing on the four J-bolt so it wouldn't scar up the roll cage, plus I think it stays in place better. I used 1.5 inch water pipe insulation split lengthwise between the roll cage and the diamond plate top and I have no rattles. I also added a rack to the top made of aluminum angle so I can strap things down and haul them up there. I don't remember the exact cost, but I think it was under $100.00, here are a few photos.

 

Not bad, good idea on the j-bolts.

 

That does look good. Second the J bolts!

 

"Flagman"........thats the kind of info I was hoping to get started. That is really a great idea on bending the edges. I've been wondering how I was gonna get them bent without a brake? The measurments on the lips are good to know also. It looks really nice!! Thanks for the taking the time to do the right up....................

 

Very nice job on the diamond plate roof. You could even make a head liner for it out of some indoor/outdoor carpet and just glue it on. It would look nice, help with the sound and would be washable too.

 

I like that idea Brian! That way you would'nt have to use any weather stripping either? Great ideas I'll try to put to good use when I make mine...............

 

I like that idea Brian! That way you would'nt have to use any weather stripping either? Great ideas I'll try to put to good use when I make mine...............

Thats exactly right. And if a guy didn't want to use u-bolts or J-hooks you can mount the roof down with some self tapping screws. I've mount the same roof on 2 different Rangers in the past with self tappers and it worked great. You just have to make sure you check your measurements so you don't miss the roll cage and leave a little hole in your roof.

 

I wish I had a picture of Rabbitchaser's top, I got a good look at it yesterday, I will try to get him to post pics. It is diamond tread with an overhang on the back containing 6x9 speakers, it was a one off made by a local welding shop, and it is a cool setup.

 

OK..............I decided to call our local metal fab shop here just to see how much they would charge for a steel roof to my specs? They are usually high as giraffe ears on anything they do but I was VERY pleasantly suprised!!!

Here are the specs...........
- 16 guage sheet steel
- 2" x 45 degree lip on sides and back
- 5" x45 degree lip on the front
- all trimmed and welded up ready to paint

$200 out the door!!!!!!!!!!!


I thought that was very reasonable considering the price of steel now days! Buy 6 u-bolts, some indoor/outdoor carpet and couple cans of paint and have about $225 in a solid steel roof to my specs. I'm headed to give them my deminsions this week. I will post up some pictures after I get it done.................

 

Sounds like a good deal!

 

That sounds like a very good deal. Something you might see if they can do is put a faint X bend from one corner to the other before they bend your edges. The factory metal roofs come like that to help give it some stiffness. It probably won't make that much difference but I do know the factory Polaris steel roofs made by Curtis are 14 guage. I called them when I made a roof for our XP.

Here's a picture of the roof I made and you can see the faint X bend across the roof. It's a very slight bend but it sure helps stiffen things up.

 

Thanks for the tip on the "X" Brian!! I will have them do that also. I was thinking about going 14 guage but could'nt find any info on how thick the Polaris steel roofs were. Thanks for that info also! Thinking about going with 2 1/2" lips all the way around on somewhere between a 40-45 degree angle. Also gonna use 3M spray adhesive and attach indoor/outdoor carpet to the underside for sound deadning. Thanks again fo rthe info..........................

 

I'd like to have one of these made too. Would it be safe to trailer my Ranger (highway speeds) with a top like this installed?
Thanks,
Dave

 

As long as you use good clamps and I would suggest 6 ( 3 across the front and 3 across the back). I have decided to have it made out of 14gauge instead of 16ga.

 

I'm a little embarrassed but sometimes all ya need is a little shade for you and your buddy. 2 pieces of 2" ABS some shade cloth and eye hooks to tie it down for the front and shade cloth stapled to a frame more eye hooks for the back. $10

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Whats to be embarassed about? it looks good!

 

As long as you use good clamps and I would suggest 6 ( 3 across the front and 3 across the back). I have decided to have it made out of 14gauge instead of 16ga.

Thanks for the quick response; I'm going to check around for prices.

 

Thanks carnivore, I just felt a lot cheap after seeing all the really classy things I see the PRC members are inventing. But since I don't get but an inch of rain a year, other than hurricane spin off, I don't need a hard top. I can raise, lower or remove the back easily or just flip it over and bungy it down. Works for me.

 

Looks pretty sharp to me Russinbaja.

 

all these suggestions are great. Having no ability to nor talent in these areas all the pic's and write up are great. can use to take to work and have someone who knows how to do them make them right again thanks guy's nice work.

 

You may be able to see mine on my signature pic. Don't recall the thickness, but plate steel bent at the back, primed, sprayed with bedliner material, and fastened with pop rivots. Been on there for almost 4 years, and only a few tree branch scratches- but strong enough to stand on, and holding up real well.

 

There has to be someone out there with a piece of treated plywood for a roof! Has to be!

 

There has to be someone out there with a piece of treated plywood for a roof! Has to be!

Ive seen at least one of those here.

 

Roof

Plywood and spray paint is all I've ever used.

Gets banged up....make another one.

 

piece of plywood, round the corners off, couple coats of spray on bed liner, and 6 u-bolts (with weather strip, for vibration) is all I used, does the job nicely :wink: