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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2015 midsize 570 crew. Has about 1000 miles. Never really abused. Just mainly mountain roads. No mud or water. I have one front wheel that has just a bit of play. Rest have none. I’d say it’s a bit less than 1/8” of play outside diameter of then tire.

Some advise on how much is too much and when do I know, outside the obvious, is too much play and need replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply! By wobbles, do you mean wobbles when driving, wobbles when you pull on the tire while it’s setting on the ground, or when it’s on a jack?

I can feel nothing when it’s sitting in the ground. But with the tire jacked up, I can feel a bit of play.
 

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Jus, " a bit of play" could be from the suspension bushings. Many throw away good money changing GOOD wheel bearings. When it is time, you will know .
 

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It’s a good idea to grease your wheel bearings periodically. I just picked up a set of bearing greasers for my 2015 570 mid, made by a company called the Extension Depot.
Front use the 35mm and the rear 40mm.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’ve been looking at getting some greaser tools. Now is a good time to do it and just service them all now. Just did the fluid and filter changes. My regular annual routine. During inspection is where I noticed the play in the front left wheel.
 

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okay so to answer the question
With the suspension lifted and tire off the ground, when you grab the tire at 12 and 6 and and pull push, is the pay in the wheel/hub or ball joints?
Wheel hub = bad bearing
Also try to grab the tire at 3 and 6 look for looseness or play in the steering tie rod ends. The first things to go on these rigs even before the wheel bearings are the tie rod ends, control arm bushings and the ball joints. By grabbing the tire and moving it from these two position you can isolate where the looseness is and repair as needed.

the factory ball joints, wheel bearings, and control arm bushings did not even last 2 years for me, but we are kinda hard on our Ranger :)
 

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wheel bearing time!!!

I just did ours and did a write up on the install in my build thread........

Factory polaris bearings are still the best option, no aftermarket bearings are as good (yet)
The job is much easier if you have a press

 

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wheel bearing time!!!

I just did ours and did a write up on the install in my build thread........

Factory polaris bearings are still the best option, no aftermarket bearings are as good (yet)
The job is much easier if you have a press
What is your basis for which is better, OEM vs aftermarket?
 

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hours of research on the internet forums looking for the strongest parts for my buildup.

Look around, ask the guys who know, they are still running Polaris bearings.
I RARELY use stock parts if there is a better option....the stock wheel bearings are still the best wheel bearings avail
This info comes from forum vendors who build/race these UTV's, try searching around

Try searching around and let me know if you come to the same conclusion, two heads are always better than one.
My step son(s) work at the local polaris dealer (both of them work there), I am lucky to get a discount on parts sometimes....and yet I still don't use Polaris parts unless it is the best option.
 

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I replace 100s of Polaris parts yearly and I agree with you that OEM is better on some parts while aftermarket is better on others. A great example that I've found is the thermal fan switch on Sportsmans, aftermarket can't get them right. I was asking about the Wheel bearings because I replace them quite often and haven't really noticed a difference in failure rate or their construction. I tend to use All Balls mainly to save my customers money. I've been using them for the last three years and haven't had one come back. The main failure that I see is from lack of grease. I don't see the same failure rate with wheel bearings on Kawasaki Mules. I believe the reason is that Polaris uses bearings with a two piece inner race. The good thing is that it makes them greaseable but the bad is that they are not really a "sealed" bearing. On the Mules the bearings can't be greased but they also rarely fail. I guess what I'm getting at is that from what I've seen, the maintenance of the Polaris style wheel bearing is more important than the brand.
 

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So who makes the wheel bearings for polaris?
I have been a fan of Timken. Have used some others in extreme conditions but when the labor is involved and or the total PIA place they are or on the ride that exceeds the speed limit x 3 I seek out theTimken
 

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So who makes the wheel bearings for polaris?
I have been a fan of Timken. Have used some others in extreme conditions but when the labor is involved and or the total PIA place they are or on the ride that exceeds the speed limit x 3 I seek out theTimken
Ill be changing four Ranger wheel bearings today/tomorrow. I'll see if they have a name on them. It's a 2010 so I'm not sure if they'll be originals.
 

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I use the greasers for sure but do not pump too much or you will blow out the seals and ruin your new bearings.... it only took 1.5-2 pumps to fill the new polaris bearings. They do say MADE IN CHINA on them

I agree aftermarket is usually the way to go, but for the wheel bearings for me being on 30" tires in the mud and snow tracks 1/3 of the year I went with the polaris parts this time around. We shall see if Timken, Koyo, or somebody else with awesome bearings will come to market for these machines.
 

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2000km on my 2015. Had to change all 4 bearing already
 

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I have used ALL BALLS wheel bearings with way better longevity that the original OEM bearings. Not paying Polaris prices for POS bearings that are made in a Chinese factory right next to AB's.
 

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I have used ALL BALLS wheel bearings with way better longevity that the original OEM bearings. Not paying Polaris prices for POS bearings that are made in a Chinese factory right next to AB's.
Are you able to re-grease the bearings? I heard someone made an attachment where you can regrease the bearings as needed.
 
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