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I have a 2015 midsize I'm looking to use a pulley system to help load things in the bed using O ring top anchors in the holes. Max expected side pull at any one hole location would be 80 lbs. I can reduce this loading by adding more pulleys and using more holes, but does anybody have a feel for how much loading this plastic can take? Has anyone cracked the bed doing something similar?
 

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2015 Polaris ranger 570 XP
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I have no experience doing what you are trying to do but I am dubious that using the bed holes for that purpose would go without damage at some point. The plastic in the beds, as does all plastic, tends to become less flexible and resilient with age. How long it would take for it to become brittle due to age alone I can't say, 10 years? 20? Then there is temperature to deal with. I can tell you first hand that the bed plastic will become more brittle with low temperatures. Mine cracked on the tailgate just below the handle to open it when I accidentally backed into a branch during cold weather. The impact wasn't very hard, in fact it was more pressure than impact, but the plastic broke. Fortunately I was able to plastic weld it from the inside by taking the tailgate apart so it's outwardly almost invisible. Then there is the heat of summer which will cause the plastic to soften and become more flexible. There are some forum members who have had the sides of their beds deform due to side loading in hot climates due to loads in the bed.

If at all possible I would try to use the steel tie down points inside the bed for your loading system. Even if you have to use some cable to extend them to the height of the bed to be able to connect to them with the bed loaded. In fact, if you extended them a few extra inches you could tuck the loose end into the bed holes for ready storage. I also believe that doing this would be safer. Depending upon the direction of pull expecting "O" rings to hold with an 80# load is questionable at best and even if the load is perpendicular to the holes if the plastic in the bed gives up suddenly you have an 80#, or greater, load accelerating toward the bed or the ground or a person from whatever height it's been lifted to with the potential for damage or injury.

Of course you haven't provided a design or given the intent other than to say to lift 80# per hole I suppose that there may be some way to engineer a lift that doesn't exert great side pressure to the bed sides or front and to share the load between enough holes to make it work.

Another option, if it would work for you, is to make a framework that sits inside the perimeter of the bed and is attached to the steel hold downs in the bottom corners of the bed (4 points). Adding a platform over the top of such a frame work so you could place the load you are lifting into the bed on top of the framework.

Of course, since I have no idea what you are trying to accomplish, the above suggestions may not be feasible.
 

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‘17 Ranger 570 Midsize
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I have a Hornet Outdoors rack in my bed. It has 2 holes used for each side section and one in front section. All sides connect together. It is flatbar stock sitting on top of the holes. I’d personally use all of the holes available. Add a flat piece of steel along the top and run the bed connectors through it to spread the load as much as possible even if you only use one pulley in the middle.

Some here have added winches to their beds to load deer, etc. I think the ones I saw reinforced the bed, but I’m not sure.
 
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It doesn’t matter how many parts you put in your line it doesn’t decrease the pull on your anchor point, or to put it another way putting more pulleys will reduce the line pull but the pull on the anchor point is still the same. So if you want to reduce the load to the anchor point you need more anchor points you could do this by making an angle iron frame to go around the bed and installing your lock and load or what ever anchors you want to use in the holes but I would use at least 4 or more anchors and make sure that the cable or chains you are using have an equal load on them, riggers calculate 3 point rigged load for 2 point rigging a 4 point for a 3 point vertical lift, but if let’s say you have 4 points but your rigging or cables going to the far side of your bed are one inch shorter then the near side all the pull will be on the far side or just 2 points which will put 40 pounds pull on the anchors on the far side of the bed
 

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Game winch setups need a framework on both bed sides and across the bed front. With multiple attachment points. Or they include bracing inside the bed. That spreads the strain across the entire bed. And holds the bed parts together at the same time. Using one or two attachment points will invite failure.

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If possible.... make a bracket/plate that bolts to the top of your roll bar as an anchor point. Could be something as simple as a D ring to hook your pulley system to.
 

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I may be able to help I have had a 2008 ranger 500 and currently have a 2021 xp1000 and yes I have loaded deer, hogs,
and even a Audad sheep, with a winch attached to the rear bed rail. On my 2008 I used a set of grocery roller to winch the animal in to box. WHEN i got my 2021 I upgraded winches and went to tilting the bed and doing a direct pull. I did on the new winch install a bar all the way across the back and down about a quarter inch on the back side of the box. but it works great.

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This is my new ranger (21) and I found while loading a hog with my old set-up that the back of the bed flexed more than on the older unit (2008) So I ran it all the way across the bed and used four holes.
 
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