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In January if picked up a '04 Ranger 500, DOA. Knew very little about it but came with a blade and winch. Wanted to get it running first to find out if engine, tranny, etc was good. The carb that was on it would not left fuel through. Engine would run as long as fuel was sprayed in the cylinder first. Bought a aftermarket carb, got it running but not good. Drove good, Hi side was out but could live with that. Made other repairs all the while trying to get that pilot adjusted so it start cold, idle decent and start hot. Went back to the 2-1/2 turns out several times to start over. Couple days ago I went back to the 2-1/2 starting point again. Not right. Made a tiny adjustment and bingo ! Starts cold or hot, idles good but not for long periods like 30 seconds or more but that's OK by me. Used it again this morning and worked great. I think I was adjusting the pilot to much at a time. I know for now I am not touching it. Few more little things and I can really enjoy the old girl, even though it is hot to ride in in hot weather. Has a hard top and back with canvas doors. Old school stuff. I have more in it in tires, brakes, rotors, etc. than I paid for it and sold the blade for $300 so about at the break even point.
 

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If you're at the break even point, give the old girl a little love and get a working OE carb. She'll purr like a kitten and won't puke on ya in 30 seconds. Will be nice to load up the bed with whatever without having it stall on you.
 

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I have the OEM carb. Been cleaned and a kit put in. Would not even start let alone run with it on. This after market carb has been working good for about 3 weeks now. Idles good, fires right up. Runs out OK though it only has the Lo range. Just took a lot of fiddling to get it adjusted right. Was turning the pilot to far at a time. As long as this one is working it will stay on the machine. If the time comes, I can have the OEM rebuilt and try it again I guess. I understand your dislike for aftermarket anything which is fine when you have unlimited funds to throw at it. I am not in that position. Just because you guys couldn't make an aftermarket carb work don't mean they are all junk.
 

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Had to re-register as site would not accept my password. Just for kick & grins I tried the HI range this morning. Went right in and worked great. The issue is after the engine runs a while and warms up, the idle speed increases and HI won't engage, just grinds so haven't been using it. Why would the idle increase after warming up?
 

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Oil-lubricants thin down and the jugs get a bit looser. Things just run a bit better when everything is warmed up. Well you have found the issue of shifting you can just live it like the carb and just turn off and shift into high and restart.
 

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" Why would the idle increase after warming up?" Roger, just a thought ,could be sucking some vacuum somewhere after warming up.
 

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If thats the case watch the plugs closely to see if they show a color thats not a tan but getting closer to white.
One can spray wd-40 or brake cleaner around intake manifold and see if you get a rpm change to see if there is as jungle thinks a air leak
 

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Warming up/heat I don't think is the reason. Items get larger when hot, not smaller. Thought about the vacuum leak but this carb, as far as I can find out, does not have a vacuum other than through the carb to draw fuel and air through the air cleaner. There are 2 plastic lines that attach to the back side of the carb that go to open air. Not a lot of information on this in the manual. This is a Mikuni carb on this Ranger. This unit was really abused and neglected by PO so nothing would surprise me. Will do some checking around the intake, etc. Also pull the plug in the morning and see what it looks like. Been around a lot of different gas engines but this is a first. Appreciate the suggestions.
 

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Can anyone verify that the line connected to the two barbs on the back top of the carb are to go to open air or are they supposed to be connected some place ??
On this one the end of the line hangs down in the front of the engine.
 

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Can anyone verify that the line connected to the two barbs on the back top of the carb are to go to open air or are they supposed to be connected some place ??
On this one the end of the line hangs down in the front of the engine.
Open air/ atmospheric pressure
 

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Vent to atmosphere. Should be run into frame on drivers side. Mud Daubers clogged mine once. Took longer than it should have for me to figure that out. They also like the ground plugs on outlets and my mower key slot. Not to mention extra fuel line in the garage. SC daubers I suppose. Won't hurt to check the condition of diaphragm, slide and needle motion. Give the original carb a good cleaning and inspection. May be surprised... m2c
 

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Had some time today so pulled the plug. Nice tan color like we like to see them. Grabbed a can of brake cleaner and started it up. Sprayed around the intake - block junction. No change at all. Sprayed around the rubber tube - carb on the intake side. No change in speed. Did the same with the air intake and no difference but would have to have a really plugged up filter for it to make a difference. With that, not sure what would be causing it to idle fast after warm up.
 

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Thanks much guy. That is what I thought and the way mine is. We have a small bee critter, kind of like a sweat bees that likes to find small holes to plant their eggs in. They will plug up about anything, have problem with them in our water garden fountains if not run every day. Ground side of outlets, vent holes in about anything.

On the high idle situation, it goes high enough that it is hard to get it into neutral after a stop. Works best if it is taken out of gear while still moving.

I may just bring that OEM carb to a dealer and have them overhaul it since my luck was not good on my first try with a CV carb. My experience over the years has been with the garden tractor & Lawn mower type engines. 20 hp or less, Wisconsin, Tech's, B&S, Kohler, etc. Those I can handle.
 
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