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Idle adjustment screw

47K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  JonnyBones  
#1 ·
[HR][/HR]



GREAT write-up on the TPS Adjustment procedure by Jerry, aka commanderjjones:

Short Version.....adjusting the idle voltage
(1) Find the yellow wire leading to the TPS and carefully pierce the insulation with the positive lead of your multi-meter (make sure that you seal that bare spot when finished). If you want to do it "right" and not pierce the wire insulation, you can buy the Polaris TPS adjustment harness (Polaris part # 2201519-A), which simply "T's" into the existing harness plug.
(2) Connect the negative lead of your meter to a good ground on the Ranger (the engine will work.....no need to go all the way to the battery).
(3) Set your multi-meter to the lowest setting that you have above .660 volts to get the most accurate reading (many have a 2 volt setting and that will work great).
(4) Turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should be seeing .660 volts +/- .010 volts for your '08 Crew (see the important parts sticky for info' on other year models http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=35 ). If the voltage is outside of that range, turn the idle voltage adjustment screw on the left front of the throttle body (right above the throttle cable) until you have the desired voltage.
Image

Although the screw is designed to require a special tool (Polaris part # PU-47315), it can be done with needle nose pliers. You can buy a cheaper version than the Polaris tool here http://www.kmsperformance.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=13
(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment.

I may have a different animal. I can not find a idle voltage adjustment screw on the throttle body. I think I have a IAC idle air controller. After a $400 service and dealership tune up I continue to have a low rpm stumble and sometimes stall out. The tech said all my wiring and connections were good. The Ranger runs great except at a point just past idle on the throttle. The tech had it hooked up to their *Digital Wrench" software and set the TPS however no improvement was gained. Any ideas?​

 
#3 ·
Curt, my ride is a 2008 500EFI with an IAC. The following is from a Pure Polaris 2008 service manual, and a photo of what I think is the IAC on my ride. Any way to adjust it? A replacement is expensive.
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION​
EFI COMPONENTS​
Identification / Location​
1.​
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
Located under the seat on the driver’s side.​
2.​
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)
Located on top of the intake manifold.​
3.​
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT)
Located in the rubber intake boot between the air box and​
throttle body.​
4.​
Idle Air Control (IAC)
Located on top of the Throttle body
 
#5 · (Edited)
This is not the only thing strange about this model. The TPS voltage is supposedly
1.10 to 1.14vdc.
Just have to wait for a helper to read while I probe.
I had hoped it was just the TPS setting off but that was checked at the dealership...wait maybe I had better double check that! Just seems strange that it is only one little spot opening the throttle that I have the problem.
 
#9 · (Edited)
"Is this still most likely a tps issue as the problem is when the throttle is advanced just over idle?
I know the answer is with the forum members somewhere if I keep on digging!"


Well, the IAC checks out good. The TPS is set to correct voltage and shows smooth voltage increase when opening throttle, checked with a KMP Performance kit. Manifold temp sensor and signals good. Manifold barometric pressure sensor and signal good. I am still stumped guys. As stated when engine is at idle and I tap the throttle the engine will either stall or hesitate and catch up. About 7 out of 8 times it will just hesitate and catch up. When it does stall out it seems easier to start back up with throttle added.
 
#11 ·
It runs like a scalded dog once past the little blip. No problems at all at high rpm's and under load. Should I still check the fuel pressure? I have no Schrader valve for an easy check.
 
#14 ·
Yes. Just came back from dealership 200 hour service and tune up including their digital wrench hook up charge. No codes except for start sequence and end of test code.
The tech did offer to look at it again when I can get it hauled back to them. I did not check it out before I left the dealership with it DUMB ME!
 
#18 ·
Carl, "Is there a pressure regulator in the assembly also?" Yes but they are N/A without buying an entire tank/assembly. Occasionally you can find a "lightly" used assembly on E-Bay. Glad you found the solution to the problem.
 
#19 ·
Carl, "Is there a pressure regulator in the assembly also?" Yes but they are N/A without buying an entire tank/assembly. Occasionally you can find a "lightly" used assembly on E-Bay. Glad you found the solution to the problem.
When I get the assembly broken down I will see if It will match it up with something like Standard Motor Products PR210. If I get a match I'll post it.
Thanks again everyone for the help.
 
#20 ·
Check around the "lip" of the intake manifold itself, I found a small slice thru on mine that was throwing me fits on my 800..