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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a 2008 700xpEFI with @ 2500 miles. To start it I foot feet throttle. To keep it running have to do the same. Checked voltage at throttle sensor .660 volts. When it starts runs fine as long as you keep feeding throttle. Any suggestions.
 

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Hi I have a 2008 700xpEFI with @ 2500 miles. To start it I foot feet throttle. To keep it running have to do the same. Checked voltage at throttle sensor .660 volts. When it starts runs fine as long as you keep feeding throttle. Any suggestions.
Hey Man, welcome to the forum . I think I would start by checking for stored EFI codes. Most problems like your having are either fuel pressure related or EFI component wire problems.....ie chaffed, broken wires on the T-BAP or TPS. I would do a quick check of the throttle body adapter where it bolts to the head, for cracking right above the mounting flange. Here is some good reading for you.Only The Best
 

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Thanks for the info. Checked for codes no codes come up. Just wondering if fuel filter in tank would be an issue. I bought this machine 1 month ago. Replaced throttle cable a day ago. Cable was shredded had to replace But even before that idle was low. When engine would warm up idle would go up. Had hard time shifting trans. had to put emerg brake on.
 

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Thanks for the info. Checked for codes no codes come up. Just wondering if fuel filter in tank would be an issue. I bought this machine 1 month ago. Replaced throttle cable a day ago. Cable was shredded had to replace But even before that idle was low. When engine would warm up idle would go up. Had hard time shifting trans. had to put emerg brake on.
Just FYI, you can still have the "wire problems" with no codes. Usually , if you have a fuel pump with a mostly plugged sock, the pump is questionable as well as that filter sock is 60 micron and that is big enough to let a lot of stuff in. As far as the emergency brake goes, was that to pull the idle RPM down to be able to shift ? 2008 was the first year Polaris installed a "idler" needle bearing on the center of the primary clutch for the belt to run on at idle speed. When they go bad, it makes shifting hard. You haven't mentioned any actual idle speeds yet , before and after the cable replacement , making it difficult to guess at what's really going on.........
 

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With the change in idle from cold to warm, the problem is more than the likely broken TBAP wires or a dirty TBAP sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello again Thank you again for all your helpful advice. As of right now the main concern is that it will not start without foot feeding the throttle and to keep it running with the throttle. Does not want to idle. If I let go of the throttle it stalls out. To start it cold or warm you have to use throttle . Would the starting issue be because of a bad or dirty TBAP sensor or a broken wire at the sensor.
 

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.....Would the starting issue be because of a bad or dirty TBAP sensor or a broken wire at the sensor.
That sounds more like a TPS problem......possibly a broken wire.
Have you checked to see if it's storing any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No codes shown. I checked the TBS voltage it read .697 volts reset to .660 volts with screw on throttle body. When it starts now runs alot smoother But still will not idle .Have to press foot throttle to give it some gas to start. To keep it running have to keep pressure on foot throttle. Some guys have said could be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue. Any other suggestions?
 

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It could be the pump (there is no filter, only a strainer), so check the fuel pressure. It should maintain 39 psi, even at wide open throttle, and be sure to also check it with the engine completely hot.

If it's not the fuel pump, it's probably a broken wire to the TPS. Did you check/adjust the TPS using my "how to" sticky?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank you for getting back to me. I read on line how to adjust TPS . I have never seen your( how to) sticky. Where do I tap into the fuel line to check fuel pressure? Do I check right at the line coming off the fuel tank?
 

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Here's my sticky on adjusting the TPS, including setting the base voltage. http://www.prcforum.com/forum/24-ranger-technical/51059-tps-adjustment.html

Regarding checking fuel pressure......on my '06 there was a schrader valve on the fuel rail that you could screw a gauge directly into. They eliminated that in later years, but I'm not sure when.....so your '08 may or may not have that. If not, there is a rubber cap on the end of the fuel rail......remove the cap and use a section of fuel hose and a hose clamp to connect the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thankyou Jerry I will do the pressure test on the weekend have to get the proper guage first. As for the TPS adjustment this is the same one I used & seen on the net some place. I will let you how it all works out If it doesnt will have to take to local dealer Thank you very much for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Checked fuel pressure 39 pounds when pump is running but once pump shuts down pressure drops. This pressure is just with key on and engine not running. Does the fuel pump maintain 39 PSI with engine running?
 

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The pressure will drop with the engine and key off.

Did you get the machine good and hot before checking the pressure? Sometime a weak pump will not show itself until it reaches full operating temp's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will have to warm engine up and try again , Is it normal for pump pressure to drop after the the pump stops pumping?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Checked fuel pump pressure with engine warmed up Pressure is maintained I opened up cover on throttle body and it seems that the throttle cable is not tight enough to keep throttle butterfly open for starting Is there any way to adjust the stopper on the throttle butterfly in the throttle housing?
 

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Checked fuel pump pressure with engine warmed up Pressure is maintained I opened up cover on throttle body and it seems that the throttle cable is not tight enough to keep throttle butterfly open for starting Is there any way to adjust the stopper on the throttle butterfly in the throttle housing?
Mann, you should (and need to have) have a 1/16" to 1/8" of slack in the cable at ZERO pedal... Also,start up should not require the throttle body to be opened more than the air flow setting....
 
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