PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a place in West Virginia where I hunt, and just go to be in the outdoors. Usually my sister is there with me during hunting season. Last year she said it would be soooo nice if I could remote start the Buggy like my truck. That way when we head out to the blinds for the morning hunt it would be nice and warm in the buggy. So this year I'm going to attempt to install one. Did some research. Most everything I was finding was not UTV/ATV oriented, just automotive. Did see a few posts where units were installed in newer Rangers like the 900's etc.. Not much for the Ranger 800's. After a lot of research I decided to go with an inexpensive unit from Bulldog Security, called the RS82. Got one for less than $25.00, so what the heck. I have a PDF of the 2012 Ranger 800 service manual. Also got a PDF on line for the remote unit I bought. I've been going over the wiring schematics for several days trying to come up with a plan. Looks pretty straight forward. I just need to tap into a few wires from the Buggy's key switch. One for Constant power, Start, Accessory, and Ignition wire, then a ground to frame. Then I need to tap into the taillight and brake pressure switch. Of course this remote start is designed for a car. So I'll have to wing it a little. I've laid out what I plan to do in a few "compilated" diagrams. The Buggy doesn't seem to have a dedicated ACC. wire off of the switch. I'm guessing Since the "Run" position operates the accessory terminal block, I may not have to use the remote units ACC wire. Just turning the key on gives power to the ACC terminal block. Other than lights, the only ACC's I have are the wipers, which I'm not worried about, and the heater blower motor. If need be, I can splice the units ACC. wire into the heaters 12V wire to power the fan. So, if you can understand my Gobbledy gook, Here's pics of what I have planned. The diagram of the Buggys wiring is just of what I was needing to trace and access, if that makes any sense. I'll be taking pics as I install the remote unit. I can foresee getting access to the brake pressure switch will be an issue because of my back problems. But I may be able to access it at the start solenoid. The parking light/tail light circuit I can tap from the headlight switch. So that's the plan....
129445
129446
129447
129448

129449
129450
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Got the remote control unit in the Buggy. Tried it and it doesn't work. I took pics of the disassembly and wire connections. To get access to the start solenoid It was easier for me to remove the brushguard and nose from the Buggy. Was easy enough. Two bolts and two screws for the brushguard, and then six remaining screws for the nose, then unplug the headlights. A little finagling and it was off. Took pics of the disassembly. Also took a pic of the headlight adjustment screw. I know there have been a few posts about it. For now I'm just gonna describe the problem, and what I found with the kits test probe that came with the kit. Once I get this thing figured out (maybe with a little help?) I'll post the pics. So, after I removed the nose I reached in and put a T-tap on the orange brake wire at the start solenoid. I also decided to put a T-tap on the red/yellow wire for the tail lights at the parking brake. Was right there and easy to get at. Then I went inside and pulled the dash to access to the key switch. Pulled the plug off the switch and stripped back the black coating. Then I put T-taps on the wires (Red/White, D. Green/white, Orange). Also on the Brown wire just in case. Then I attached the appropriate wires for the remote and fished them thru to under the hood. I left the dash out just in case. I then hooked up the remote start. It clicked several times as the instructions said it would. So I thought I was good to go. I hit the start button.....Nothing. Stepped to the side of the Buggy to look at the dash, tried it, Nothing. So now I'm thinking I didn't do a T-tap right. Unplugged the unit and checked all connections. Looked like the T-tap on the D. Green/white wire at the switch needed a little squeeze. I put the remote back in, it clicked, then I hit start. The remote clicked, then nothing...(***). Stepped over to watch the dash and hit start. The dash lights came on, light switches illuminated, then it died and Nothing. I can't recall if the Buggy did it's clicking thou. Now what? Stepped to the back, hit start, the tail lights came on, then went out. Reached in to start it by key and it ran. So now I'm thinking I wired something wrong. Time to use the test probe on the switch wires to see what's what. I'll describe that in the next post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I used the test probe/light that came with the installation kit of the remote start. It clips to a 12V source and Neg. source. The test light is at the end of the lead. It has a needle probe on the tip, and it has a Red light and Green light that illuminates slightly when not probing. Touching a (+) source the Red light brightens, the Green goes out. Touching a (-) source the Red goes out, Green illuminates. At the switch I removed the wires from the T-taps to double check those connections, then reinstalled the wires to double check the leads. T-taps and all lead wires were fine. I probed each wire in OFF/RUN/START, and each time with the brake either PRESSED or NOT pressed. I got some interesting results. This is what I found:
BROWN - Shows Neg. (-) in all positions (Not Connected)
RED/WHITE - Shoes RED in all positions. Constant 12V
ORANGE - Shows Green (-) in OFF, Shows RED 12V in RUN and CRANK.
D. GREEN/WHITE - This is the tricky wire.
OFF Position - NOTHING, probe stays neutral
OFF with Brake - RED Dims slightly/GREEN brightens slightly. Brake lights do not illuminate
KEY ON - Buggy clicks
No Brake - Red brightens slightly/Green dims slightly
With Brake - RED light illuminates (12V), GREEN light out.
TURN to CRANK -
No Brake - Nothing
With Brake - Buggy starts / While Cranking Red light goes OUT, GREEN light comes ON while cranking
RUNNING AFTER STARTING -
No Brake - RED and GREEN stay slightly lit (Normal)
With Brake - RED illuminates (12V), GREEN goes out.
TURN BUGGY OFF -
Before Buggy Clicking - Brake light/Tail lights work, probe still shows Red Light on (12v), GREEN light out.
After Buggy stops Clicking - Probe goes back to OFF readings.
So, what does all that say? Why does it show the GREEN (-) light while cranking? Could this be the source of why the Buggy doesn't start? I'm guessing the ECM, or a Relay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Went out and re-probed the wires to make sure of what I had. I'm thinking I may have to use the second Ignition wire on the remote start. Just need to figure where to put it. Here's a diagram representing what I found with the probes of the wires. Hope it makes sense. Thanks..
129462
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I believe I have this "Partially" figured out. I'm guessing since the Buggy key switch Orange wire has 12V in all positions except Off, I'll assume that's the ACC wire. So I'll remove the Remote Start's White Ignition wire from there. Then attach the White/Black ACC wire from the Remote Start to the Orange key wire. I think the rest of the wires are OK. Now I need to figure out where to attach the Remote Start's White Ignition wire. that's assuming I'm right on this...LOL. Two Gobleyduk Pics, One of how it was, and how I changed it.
129469
129470
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well, after doing a lot of thinking and relentlessly going over the wiring diagrams, I'm 98% sure of what I need to do. The way the Remote Start works is just like the Ignition on a vehicle, First it takes the 12V constant and applies 12V to both of the remotes Ignition #1 and #2 wires as well as the ACC. wire. Then it will send 12V thru the Crank wire to start, and removes ACC. voltage. Once the vehicle starts it then removes the 12V start voltage and reapplies the ACC. voltage. It then waits for 5 seconds while it monitors vehicle voltage. If there is no increase in voltage from 12V, signifying it's running, it kills the system. Otherwise the vehicle is running. The problem I'm having is getting voltage to the start solenoid. And that's because of the brake pressure switch. So it appears that I will need to use the second ignition wire on the remote start. Right now I have the #1 ignition wire and ACC. wires piggy backed to the key Orange wire, and the Yellow/Black going to the keys D. Green/white wire. Changes to make are - Remove the piggy backed ACC. wire and put it to the Buggy Acc. block. Not really needed, but I'll feel better. That will leave Ignition #1 on the Orange. I will then remove the Yellow/Black start wire from the keys Green/White wire, and I will then attach the Remote start Ignition #2 to the keys Green/White wire. Then I will attach the remotes Yellow/Black start wire to the Orange wire of the start solenoid. That should complete the start circuit. But I do have one worry. I have the Remote Starts brake Blue/Black input wire on the Orange solenoid as well. It's purpose is to kill the unit when the brake is pressed, as in a possible theft. It's also used for programming and resets. So we'll see. If need be I will remove it. OK, so here is an UPDATED diagram....LOL..
129473
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, that didn't work out either. Just as I thought was going to happen, the Remote start would immediately kill itself cause of the brake input. So I just pulled that wire off of the T-tap, then tried it again. Still doing the same thing from when I hooked it up per directions. So no change. When I hit the start button, the Remote start clicks a couple times and the Buggy comes on as it would if I had used the key. Dash and switches light up, tail lights come on, fuel pump comes on. Then I here another click from the unit, the brake lights come on, but the Buggy doesn't start. After a second or two it all shuts down. Normally, when using the key and I shut off the Buggy, the tail lights and brake lights still work for a few moments. Then after a few moments, I here a few clicks from the engine bay, then a click from a relay in the fuse block and they stop working. Does the same thing on the Remote start. But then it attempts to start again as if I hit the remote switch. So now I had to ask for some help from my sister. Tomorrow morning we're going to try to get at the brake switch. We'll need to remove the inner fender well from under the front drivers side to get to the master cylinder. The next move will be to try and hook the #2 Ignition wire to the other side of the switch onto the Red/Blue wire. We tried to get access elsewhere but it wasn't happening. I think there must be something to do with the ECM and relay in the fuse block that's causing the issue. Don't know what else. If that doesn't work? I'm done. I'll remove all the wires but leave the T-taps in place. Maybe in the future I can find another unit that will operate. We'll see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Man, I have a boring life....I have nothing better to do but sit here and complain, Lol... This morning I wanted to clean this thread up a bit. Mostly of my Complaining....and useless diagramssssss. But this new forum platform doesn't allow Editing of a post after maybe 24hrs.? But maybe this useless complaining may be of use for someone else who is thinking about doing a Remote start in a Ranger 800. Later this morning my sister and I will be going out to dismantle the inner fender well to get at the brake switch. If that's doesn't work I may call the 1-800 number. But This is designed for cars. So don't know if they will be much help with a UTV/ATV like a Polaris.
I'm gonna post the pics I've taken of the Remote control unit and what it came with, the front end dis-assembly and the wiring I've done up till now. If I can get this thing to work I'll post up what I did and where it will be under the hood, anything else I can think of. I'll probably have to load the pics in a couple posts...
129482
129483
129484
129485
129487
129488
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Next set...
129489
129490
129491
129492
129493
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Access to the wires...
129494
129495
129496
129497
129498
129499
129500
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well...I'm on the fourth day now, and the Remote Start still will not start the Buggy. I've disconnected, reconnected, switched, un-switched, removed, replaced, added, moved, probed, re-probed the wires in every reasonable way to try and get this thing to operate. Once I got access to the Brake switch I was certain it was going to work. Nothing. Well I can't say nothing. It goes thru the motions. The Buggy just doesn't start. When I connect the wires to the unit, it clicks as it powers up, just as it is suppose to. The clicks a few times then stops. So now it should operate. When I hit the start button, it should: FIRST STAGE - Click, this turns the Buggy on. I know it does this because the Buggy makes it's clicking noise, dash lights, etc., parking lights come on, fuel pump runs. SECOND STAGE - The unit removes ACC voltage, and gives power to START. I know this happens because I here the unit click, and the Buggy brake lights come on, but then that's it. The Buggy should be starting, but it's not. Then, the unit should revert to the run cycle and monitor voltage for 5 seconds. If there is no increase in voltage it will shut the Buggy off. And I know it does this because the Buggy shuts down. . So it "Appears" to be operating, but the Buggy doesn't start. But there are a few other things that also happen, that are not described in the instructions. There is a red LED on the unit. I'm guessing it's suppose to illuminate indicating it's operating? It's not. The first time I hooked it up it worked, not since. When the unit first clicks on to power the Ignition and ACC., it actually does it twice. It clicks on, immediately clicks off and right back on again. Then continues into the start cycle. But, it only stays engaged for a moment then stops. But I can't recall if the brake lights go out immediately as well. I'll be double checking that today. Also, attaching the blue/black brake input wire is suppose to kill the Buggy if someone hits the brake while it's running, which it does. with the brake wire attached the system shuts itself right down, so I had to disconnect that. The only things I can think may be the issues are: #1 - this system isn't compatible with the Buggy. #2 - There is something wrong with this remote start. So do I take a chance and purchase a second unit to try?
129510
129511
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I decided to do some more probing on the wires. Discovered that I am getting voltage thru the start solenoid when the Remote Start sends a start single, yet the Buggy still doesn't start. I'm guessing something in the ECM. Also, I read somewhere today, that when someone installed a remote start on a Ranger, I think it was a 900xp, that they had to add a relay into the brake circuit. But can't remember where I read it, and they didn't describe what had to be done. So I'm essentially still guessing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Do a search for remote start on a 900. There are a few guys that have installed the unit you are using and it's probably the same wiring as your 800. I do know that you don't need the accessory wire for your application. Do some research, it's a 4 wire hookup!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks. Yea, I discovered that about the ACC. wire after trying different wiring combinations. Even thou the LED on the unit doesn't light, the unit appears to operate. At least it makes all the sounds, and probing the wire in each cycle shows voltage to that wire, and thru the start solenoid. While researching on the net, it appears that the wiring for a 900 is different than the 800. I think they have 5 wires at the switch? Lol, I'm Dizzy from all the searching on the net. There is limited stuff on installations on Ranger 900 and 1000xp's. Can't find anything for a Ranger 800 of any kind. I recall seeing a few install on Razors thou. I left all the wires installed. I just removed the unit. After I get the info on what else I need to do, I can just put it back in. Or get another unit that will work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I picked up the same unit for my 900 but haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Pretty sure that there are only 4 wires to the switch on the 900 too. Do you have a manual for your 800? You can get the factory service manual for about $25 online, that's what I did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Got a PDF on line of the service manual a few years ago. Has about 12 chapters. Each chapter covers something different like Engine, electrical, suspension, clutch, etc., including wiring diagrams. Key switch has four wires. Red/white is Constant 12V, Orange is Key On, D. Green/white is crank, Brown is constant negative.
129520
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Well, after relentless searching on the net, there is no information about installing a Remote Start on a Polaris Ranger 800. I did see a few posts about RZR installs, but no wiring info. There are a few posts on the Ranger 900xp and 1000xp. But nothing I can use to assist me. The basic color code is the same, but the 900, and I think the 1000, have a second Orange wire at the switch for the brake which I do not have. After probing the wires to check current, it appears current is going thru the start solenoid. Yet the Buggy doesn't start. I'm gonna take my meter out today to check for the amount of voltage at the solenoid. All I can do at this point is take a guess at needing a Relay, having to access a relay on the Buggy, or a wire at the ECM. Until I can get some specifics, this install will be stalled....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Sorry, I know this is just hangin' out there in limbo. I have a post under the "General Member Discussion" heading were I'm getting some assistance at getting this thing to work. As soon as I get back out to West Virginia I'll be installing a relay kit, and hope that will get this thing operating. My sister has one of those Hotspot things. Mine is shot and haven't replaced it yet. I hope I can use hers to get internet access on my Laptop. Reception out there is poor. If I can I'll post up the results while I'm out there. If not I'll have to post up once I get back home. The Epidural I had on Aug. 5th. has about run it's course. I'm nearly back to how I was before the shot. A couple of the past few nights have been really bad. But I'll be getting another on Oct. 7th.. It'll be the second shot in a series of three. If all goes well I plan on heading back out to my place in West Virginia the following weekend of the 12th.. Hoping this shot will last me thru till the end of November, meaning Hunting season.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,545 Posts
Billy, did you get the dam thing to work or not ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Not yet, Lol, sorry. I think I finally got it figured out. The Buggy is out at my place in West Virginia now. So I can't work on it till I can back out there. I was going thru the Service Manual on my laptop trying to find a solution. I think I have the problem. I was thinking that the issue had something to do with not being able to complete the start circuit thru the Neg. side of the Buggy Key switch (the Brown wire). Don't know why I didn't see this before, probably because I wasn't looking in the right chapter. In Chapter 10 "Electrical", I found it. There it lays out the Starter Solenoid Operation with a diagram and text. According to the text, turning the key to Start once the brake is applied, provides a Ground path thru the GR/WH wire. Looks like I may be able to use a Relay to complete the Neg. side of the circuit. The plan is to install a relay and wire it so that the Remote Starts crank wire will operate as the12V switched source, allowing the relay to complete the Neg. side to the start solenoid, if that makes sense?
129659
129660
129661
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top