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What are you going to charge the dealer for proper setup?
Having been at several dealerships and trying to get a feel for the service at them I know my closest is making me feel like a mark to be scored and move on to another sucker. Expanding warranty to 1 year(1 man. is now 3) is no good if the service isn't!
I don't understand the question, I am not charging any dealer anything, not offering anything either. Kinda lost me

Todd[/QUOTE]

Tongue in cheek jab at the dealer. You probably have more knowledge of the issue and better at getting the job done right and dealer could-should reimburse you for your trouble and bill back the warranty to Polaris.
 

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Seems like the engineers would have noted that. Don't be the first kid on the block with a P90X.. Thanks for taking one for the brothers here.. And sharing. lol. RPM dropping has to be the primary.
 

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So a mass produced shim for a buck or so could eliminate the P90X belt smoking when using engine braking or Polaris could just not make the braking as aggressive in the first place?
I wonder if this is the issue BPS is referring to? I talked to the service staff at the dealer yesterday and they have not seen any return for anything other than returns for fluid changes on the new body style 1000xp
 

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First post here...

I have a 19 Ranger XP1000 with about 40 hrs on it, thought I would share my experience with the clutch issues. I am by no means an expert on these clutches but I do own a 13 RZR XP 900 and a 17 RZR XP 1000 so I'm familiar with the how they can be problematic as well as how noisy they can be. This ranger clutch does some weird stuff, it can feel like it's fully engaged in high gear but drive a little bit and it pops out ( probably more a transmission engagement issues than the clutch ), but the real strange thing is the noise it makes idling in park, especialy when it's warm. Say you've been driving it for a few mins, stop put it in park to do something and you can hear the clutch slowly start turning then get faster and faster, like it's trying to engage and slipping the belt, it also gets louder until it's finally put back into a gear. I haven't been into it or taken it to the dealer but it does almost all the time now, I just don't let it idle and cut it off when I stop.

It seem to function fine otherwise but I'm sure something is not right in there.
 

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First post here...

I have a 19 Ranger XP1000 with about 40 hrs on it, thought I would share my experience with the clutch issues. I am by no means an expert on these clutches but I do own a 13 RZR XP 900 and a 17 RZR XP 1000 so I'm familiar with the how they can be problematic as well as how noisy they can be. This ranger clutch does some weird stuff, it can feel like it's fully engaged in high gear but drive a little bit and it pops out ( probably more a transmission engagement issues than the clutch ), but the real strange thing is the noise it makes idling in park, especialy when it's warm. Say you've been driving it for a few mins, stop put it in park to do something and you can hear the clutch slowly start turning then get faster and faster, like it's trying to engage and slipping the belt, it also gets louder until it's finally put back into a gear. I haven't been into it or taken it to the dealer but it does almost all the time now, I just don't let it idle and cut it off when I stop.

It seem to function fine otherwise but I'm sure something is not right in there.

Go to Gilomens site, the one i posts the vid in. He has a vid i think, or instructions on clutch alignment. To me, that sounds like the problem your having.
 

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So a mass produced shim for a buck or so could eliminate the P90X belt smoking when using engine braking or Polaris could just not make the braking as aggressive in the first place?
I wonder if this is the issue BPS is referring to? I talked to the service staff at the dealer yesterday and they have not seen any return for anything other than returns for fluid changes on the new body style 1000xp
Hard to guess if that was the issues or not? when i heard about it a year ago bigger tires and a lot of downhill played a roll in exaggerating the grooving of the belt. Maybe a crew loaded down with gear and people could cause it also? Hard to say. On the other hand, my buddy just rolled over 4000 miles on the new clutch without any issues.
 

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TRust me, they look at it differently than you think. It gets down to pennies
As a owner of several from new Ford pick ups over the years and have retired from working for a European new car manufacturer, I can tell you that cost is every thing. Material cost and final manufacturing of part comes down to make it a cheap as possible and yet pass Federal regs. for minimum durability.
For example my new from 2011 F150 had rotted front and rear brake rotors at around 20K miles it could have been less mileage. the number 1 cause in my opinion is that rotors from factory probably have less nickel content (for cost savings) thus making them corrode easier.Replacement aftermarket rotors are much better with minimal oxidation (corrosion)
Also tires from factory are made at a very reduced cost also to save money, same vehicle and had to replace all 4 tires due to a belt shift at a very low mileage
Again the bottom line is pennies per vehicle adds up and the out come is profit.
 

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I agree with Bob , pennies add up. But what about battieries Bob. I've never ever seen a aftermarket battery last 10 or 12 years like the factory installed battery. Factory truck and car batteries last. Why is that ?
 

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First post here...

I have a 19 Ranger XP1000 with about 40 hrs on it, thought I would share my experience with the clutch issues. I am by no means an expert on these clutches but I do own a 13 RZR XP 900 and a 17 RZR XP 1000 so I'm familiar with the how they can be problematic as well as how noisy they can be. This ranger clutch does some weird stuff, it can feel like it's fully engaged in high gear but drive a little bit and it pops out ( probably more a transmission engagement issues than the clutch ), but the real strange thing is the noise it makes idling in park, especialy when it's warm. Say you've been driving it for a few mins, stop put it in park to do something and you can hear the clutch slowly start turning then get faster and faster, like it's trying to engage and slipping the belt, it also gets louder until it's finally put back into a gear. I haven't been into it or taken it to the dealer but it does almost all the time now, I just don't let it idle and cut it off when I stop.

It seem to function fine otherwise but I'm sure something is not right in there.
My '18 1000 made that same noise you described for a while. It eventually stopped making it.
 

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I agree with Bob , pennies add up. But what about battieries Bob. I've never ever seen a aftermarket battery last 10 or 12 years like the factory installed battery. Factory truck and car batteries last. Why is that ?
Because when your vehicle is new so is everything else... wiring, alt etc. Not all new OEM batteries are great either, Case in fact Polaris batteries...back in the mid 2000's you were just lucky enough to get past the 6 month warranty and needed a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Back to my original post, I heard from the owners yesterday and they got one of there Rangers back from the dealer. The service manager told them that the alignment was off by about an inch. I can't imagine it being that far off but it's what they were told. Now for the best part, remember I said that they got ONE of their Rangers back. When they went to pick it up they asked the service manager when the other one would be ready. His reply, "oh, you have two of them here?".
 
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