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Ha! Dave, You answered my question posed to Forde as I was typing it. Both of those batteries are light years ahead of stock.

Once I get my stereo project completed in the next few weeks it is going to be battery upgrade time. Gotta be able to run my tunes with the engine off for a bit. Headed to the Hatfield McCoy Outlaw trails and I have a sneaky feeling we will be stopping as much as riding

I'm not a big drinker while riding but I do love music. So I'll sip on my dew and rock out. I just want to be able to start back up once the "rest" break is over.


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I'm telling you it's one upgrade that should be addressed earlier in a build I tell ya. My factory battery is smoked. 1 year old, 800 miles. Now, I'm fairly certain the accessories are what killed it, not so much the LED lights but the 1600w amp definitely had something to do with it. Downhill from there.
The reserve time on an Odyssey is pretty amazing. I have been putting it off for quite some time but did research it down to a micronic level before pulling the trigger.

If and when I do this all over again, there are definitely upgrades that will take precedence.
Shocks and suspension will be first.
Aftermarket bushings
Battery
Heat shields (while the unit is still new, pull it down to the frame and insulate/sound deaden the entire rig)
A 10 pair wire loom front to back.


From there put all the other stuff on.




2016 Mid life crisis
 

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Is this the one? They both look to be 850cca. And I missing something? Other that it not being a marine model?

Odyssey 35-PC1400T Automotive and LTV Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002496HM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cuMWzbPNA7ADX


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I'm not sure what the "T" designation is.

The 35M-PC1500 (the correct number) is different. A bit different composition of deep cycle/starting plus it has 7/16 or 3/8" accessory posts.


2016 Mid life crisis
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Starting on my pvc cap stereo project. Got the caps scuffed and my porting hole drilled. 1st coat of paint on the caps.


I bought a MTX Thunder 400 watt marine amp on eBay. $44. Just have to get the rest of the funds released from the treasurer. Should be able to do it for another $167 for Bluetooth controller switch, kicker 6.5 " marine speakers and wire. I've got $50 of birthday money left so I only need to convince the boss for $117


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Starting on my pvc cap stereo project. Got the caps scuffed and my porting hole drilled. 1st coat of paint on the caps.


I bought a MTX Thunder 400 watt marine amp on eBay. $44. Just have to get the rest of the funds released from the treasurer. Should be able to do it for another $167 for Bluetooth controller switch, kicker 6.5 " marine speakers and wire. I've got $50 of birthday money left so I only need to convince the boss for $117


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Just an inquiry Jeff, not sure if it's needed or not with PVC but did you heat treat them before paint?

The reason I ask is PVC inherently does not hold paint. I know this with absolute certainty. I fought it in court against Clark county (Las Vegas) and won. The municipality inspectors require painting of schedule 40 @ pool equipment installations to combat the effects of UV, but paint does not adhere. I could get very scientific as to why, but let's just say there's a reason why water runs through it without beading.
Anywho.
Chlorinated polyolefin primer. That's the ticket to adhesion. Increases the surface tension to accept paint.


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Discussion Starter #145
I will research and get said adhesion promoter. I'll give the first coat a good sanding and spray the primer before I go any further. Thanks Dave!


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Discussion Starter #146
Just an inquiry Jeff, not sure if it's needed or not with PVC but did you heat treat them before paint?

The reason I ask is PVC inherently does not hold paint. I know this with absolute certainty. I fought it in court against Clark county (Las Vegas) and won. The municipality inspectors require painting of schedule 40 @ pool equipment installations to combat the effects of UV, but paint does not adhere. I could get very scientific as to why, but let's just say there's a reason why water runs through it without beading.
Anywho.
Chlorinated polyolefin primer. That's the ticket to adhesion. Increases the surface tension to accept paint.


2016 Mid life crisis
Do you know the best place to buy the primer?


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I'll double check but I did pipe cap speaker housings on my ranger and think I used Krylon rattle can primer made for plastic. I'll take a look.
 

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Do you know the best place to buy the primer?


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Any of the big box DIY stores should carry some form or another. The CPO is the best but any polyolefin adhesion promoter works. My painter used rustoleum automotive adhesion promoter and I can't complain about the results.


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Correction....no primer. Sanded, cleaned with alcohol, and used Krylon Fusion paint. Supposedly made for plastic. I went with flat black. No problems so far.
 

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Found it!!!! In 2 minutes no less!!
Forde, can you tell me what the difference would be between the 34 this gentleman used and the 35 Dave bought?
Here ya go!!

MODELVoltagePHCA**
(5 sec.)
CCA*HCAMCANominal CapacityReserve
Capacity
Minutes
Length
inches
(mm)
Width
inches
(mm)
Height
inches
(mm)
Weight
lbs
(kg)
TerminalTorque
Specs
in-lbs
(Nm max)
Internal
Resistance
(mΩ)
Short
Circuit
Current
(20 Hr
Rate-Ah)
(10 Hr
Rate-Ah)


35-PC1400
121400850115095065551309.47
(240.5)
6.85
(174.0)
8.75
(222.3)
50.0
(22.7)
SAEN/A2.53100A

34-PC1500
12150085012501050686213510.86
(275.8)
6.77
(172.0)
7.88
(200.2)
49.5
(22.4)
SAEN/A2.53100A
 

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Correction....no primer. Sanded, cleaned with alcohol, and used Krylon Fusion paint. Supposedly made for plastic. I went with flat black. No problems so far.
This Krylon plastic primer is actually a better product than the rustoleum. It is in fact an adhesion promoter, it's just a single stage.
No need for primer then paint with the fusion.

Another way to prep poly vinyl chloride I just found out is a quick wipe of acetone. Acetone breaks down PVC, opening the pours, allowing paint to adhere.


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Discussion Starter #152
This Krylon plastic primer is actually a better product than the rustoleum. It is in fact an adhesion promoter, it's just a single stage.
No need for primer then paint with the fusion.

Another way to prep poly vinyl chloride I just found out is a quick wipe of acetone. Acetone breaks down PVC, opening the pours, allowing paint to adhere.


2016 Mid life crisis


Now a question. Since I have already sprayed a base coat (it's primer + paint). Should I use a fine sand paper and go over everything first? Or do i need to use a heavier grit to try and get back down to the bare plastic? I want to do this once. And I'm at a stage that I can easily use a palm sander to knock the paint off before applying the promoter.



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Discussion Starter #153
Here ya go!!

MODELVoltagePHCA**
(5 sec.)
CCA*HCAMCANominal CapacityReserve
Capacity
Minutes
Length
inches
(mm)
Width
inches
(mm)
Height
inches
(mm)
Weight
lbs
(kg)
TerminalTorque
Specs
in-lbs
(Nm max)
Internal
Resistance
(mΩ)
Short
Circuit
Current
(20 Hr
Rate-Ah)
(10 Hr
Rate-Ah)


35-PC1400
121400850115095065551309.47
(240.5)
6.85
(174.0)
8.75
(222.3)
50.0
(22.7)
SAEN/A2.53100A

34-PC1500
12150085012501050686213510.86
(275.8)
6.77
(172.0)
7.88
(200.2)
49.5
(22.4)
SAEN/A2.53100A
Thanks Forde. I appreciate the research! Either will be a huge upgrade.


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Now a question. Since I have already sprayed a base coat (it's primer + paint). Should I use a fine sand paper and go over everything first? Or do i need to use a heavier grit to try and get back down to the bare plastic? I want to do this once. And I'm at a stage that I can easily use a palm sander to knock the paint off before applying the promoter.



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That's a lot of work for a PVC cap but it's the right way. The promoter is the layer between raw plastic and paint.
Ideally, clean raw plastic with isopropyl alcohol then apply promoter per instructions. Cure times are very important for a quality finish.


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Discussion Starter #155
That's a lot of work for a PVC cap but it's the right way. The promoter is the layer between raw plastic and paint.
Ideally, clean raw plastic with isopropyl alcohol then apply promoter per instructions. Cure times are very important for a quality finish.


2016 Mid life crisis
I'm not worried about the work. I take pride in my ride and want to make sure it's done the correct way the first time versus having to go back and redo it. I sometimes hate that I'm like that, but it has served me well.


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Discussion Starter #156 (Edited)
So I did this


Then I looked at the can of spray paint I used and found this



First ingredient is acetone. I will do a test and go ahead and apply a few more coats of paint to the other cap as I did originally and use the adhesion promoter on the one I already sanded. See if over time there is a difference. Maybe these new paints for plastic and other materials that have the primer and acetone built in will stick better than the old paints.


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I'm not worried about the work. I take pride in my ride and want to make sure it's done the correct way the first time versus having to go back and redo it. I sometimes hate that I'm like that, but it has served me well.


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We are of the same cloth my friend.

It might be worth repurchasing the caps and starting over. If you have trouble finding some let me know. I'm installing sewer main right now and have boxes of 6 & 8" caps.


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Discussion Starter #158
I think they will turn out ok. And I actually like being a test case for the paint product to see if it will stick. I got the one sanded wiped down with isopropyl alcohol and sprayed with the first 2 coats of adhesive promoter per the instructions. I'll put the top coat on tonight before football practice. I put a second coat of paint on the one I left painted. Will paint a third coat tonight and then the clear coat tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter #159
Did a couple repairs today to the ranger. First I fixed the driver side running led lights I put on top of the headlight lens. One of the connections wasn't making contact so I pulled it off and reapplied the solder. Then used head shrink tubing on it to seal it. Super glued it back on and works great. Hopefully it won't work loose again.

Lastly I took my roof light bar off and lowered it down about 3 inches on the a pillar, in an attempt to keep it from getting ripped off in the woods when I get into some tight trails. It's now below the front of the roof line, so hopefully it will make a difference. I also used some back rtv silicone to plug the holes I drilled for the old wires to run through and for the old holes for the brackets. The finish looks good. Now I just need to order the trim piece to hid the wires. Gonna do it the correct way instead of my short cut I did before.


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