OK, I bent one front and one rear axle it appears. I have read more stories about axles in the last couple of hours but I am still not finding information about an axle (other than EVO's) that have not had multiple issue with either length and popping out of the CV (Rhino's) or boots not holding up (Cobra) missed reviews on High Lifter. I do not want any issues on the trail and I do not want an axle strong enough to brake the case. I have a lift so I need an axle that will handle the angles and not heat up along with a CV boot that is at least as good as the factory. What are we having good luck with on this forum?
Lets talk axles???
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Axles boil down to two things IMO (both are interchangeable):
#1 - Cost
#2 - Warranty/customer service
Lots of options out there for sure but is a $400 axle worth it? If that component is the strongest in your drive train, what goes next?.....dif? tranny?
I've had both the Titans and Rhinos, looked at Gorillas, Turners, and Outlaws. I can't justify the highend stuff and all. I can buy 2 rhinos for the cost of one turner, and if the rhino breaks within 90 days, it's a free replacement. SATV has always been good to deal with, no questions asked at all whenever I've had a return or break (one rhino so far, and it was my fault). I can't say the same about the Titan's, I haven't been real happy with the quality (boots) but I wanted to give them a go.
Talk to the manufacturers and find out what their warranty and exchange policy is, weigh that against the cost and you should arrive and a good decision.
#1 - Cost
#2 - Warranty/customer service
Lots of options out there for sure but is a $400 axle worth it? If that component is the strongest in your drive train, what goes next?.....dif? tranny?
I've had both the Titans and Rhinos, looked at Gorillas, Turners, and Outlaws. I can't justify the highend stuff and all. I can buy 2 rhinos for the cost of one turner, and if the rhino breaks within 90 days, it's a free replacement. SATV has always been good to deal with, no questions asked at all whenever I've had a return or break (one rhino so far, and it was my fault). I can't say the same about the Titan's, I haven't been real happy with the quality (boots) but I wanted to give them a go.
Talk to the manufacturers and find out what their warranty and exchange policy is, weigh that against the cost and you should arrive and a good decision.
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If you want the strongest (and unfortunately they're not cheap), Turner or Gorilla would be my choice. I've been down the "cheap axle" route and discovered it was cheaper to buy one Gorilla axle than to buy other brands multiple times.
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I've had good luck with gorilla in the past. Boots seemed like they were good as long as you don't get into a lot of brush. Had them on my 700 sportsman with mud lites. I beat that poor sportsman for 6 years like I stole it.
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Saw this on another site, reinforces my point about having too strong of an axle.
"Quote: Originally Posted by VoodooXP View Post
Turners are by far the strongest. But you will find every other weak link on your RZR. I am running Cobra's, for the money they are the next best thing IMO. When i had the stock axles, i broke a front axle, after putting the cobras in, i broke the front diff. Haven't had any problems out of the Cobra's.
Hope this helps.
Quote: Originally Posted by GHETTOSLED View Post
However, if you try and compare the 570 to a Turner Evo you are wasting your time. Even the Turner HD front CV is significantly larger then the 570 (which you can only run on the rear).. The Turner cage and shaft size is significantly larger and that's why you will find them on ALL the top drag and high HP RZRs pumping 500+ hp. The downside is they do run hotter, and most of the complaints you will hear regarding the turners is based on the grease not holding up after prolonged use. I would say 95% of all the mud guys back east with built motors and lift kits/big tires run Turners.
"We have broken countless ball joints, atleast 30 stock front diffs, 20+ rebuilt heavy duty and re-enforced front diffs , several transmissions, etc and cant think of one Turner axle that failed on its own. You will start breaking other mechanical parts before you break a Turner axle..."
After reading these two posts, I want you to go back & re-read my post #14 on the first page. These two examples above prove my point. (Broke 30 stock diffs, 20+ heavy duty diffs and some transmissions!) What does that tell you? These big axles are only protecting themselves and are not working together with the rest of the drive-line components.
The UTV aftermarket industry needs to learn & understand shock loads and how to absorb the energy vs transferring it down the drive line. You can build a mega huge axle, and anyone can do that. Just build it bigger! But that is not really solving the problem. It is just a band-aid for a factory axle that was built of less quality material and manufacturing process.
I guarantee these Cobra & Turner axles are not designed or heat treated to twist. They are made to be big, strong & rigid. They look to be great for big HP, but not for every other part of the stock RZR drive-line system. Plus how much unsprung weight have you added to your vehicle. BTW Unsprung weight is some of the worse weight you can add to any vehicle. It greatly effects handling, changes shock rebound valving, stresses suspension components like ball joints, a-arms & a-arm pivot points. I dont think these bigger axles are going to greatly effect the places I listed. But as you continue to build bigger heavier parts they will effect those places I listed.
Regarding Turner Axles having heat related issues. There are several ways to fix that issue. One is machining the CV joint housing to dissipate heat. The next is to use high quality grease. I'm sure they will say they are using good grease, but I guarantee they are not using the best types of CV grease".
"Quote: Originally Posted by VoodooXP View Post
Turners are by far the strongest. But you will find every other weak link on your RZR. I am running Cobra's, for the money they are the next best thing IMO. When i had the stock axles, i broke a front axle, after putting the cobras in, i broke the front diff. Haven't had any problems out of the Cobra's.
Hope this helps.
Quote: Originally Posted by GHETTOSLED View Post
However, if you try and compare the 570 to a Turner Evo you are wasting your time. Even the Turner HD front CV is significantly larger then the 570 (which you can only run on the rear).. The Turner cage and shaft size is significantly larger and that's why you will find them on ALL the top drag and high HP RZRs pumping 500+ hp. The downside is they do run hotter, and most of the complaints you will hear regarding the turners is based on the grease not holding up after prolonged use. I would say 95% of all the mud guys back east with built motors and lift kits/big tires run Turners.
"We have broken countless ball joints, atleast 30 stock front diffs, 20+ rebuilt heavy duty and re-enforced front diffs , several transmissions, etc and cant think of one Turner axle that failed on its own. You will start breaking other mechanical parts before you break a Turner axle..."
After reading these two posts, I want you to go back & re-read my post #14 on the first page. These two examples above prove my point. (Broke 30 stock diffs, 20+ heavy duty diffs and some transmissions!) What does that tell you? These big axles are only protecting themselves and are not working together with the rest of the drive-line components.
The UTV aftermarket industry needs to learn & understand shock loads and how to absorb the energy vs transferring it down the drive line. You can build a mega huge axle, and anyone can do that. Just build it bigger! But that is not really solving the problem. It is just a band-aid for a factory axle that was built of less quality material and manufacturing process.
I guarantee these Cobra & Turner axles are not designed or heat treated to twist. They are made to be big, strong & rigid. They look to be great for big HP, but not for every other part of the stock RZR drive-line system. Plus how much unsprung weight have you added to your vehicle. BTW Unsprung weight is some of the worse weight you can add to any vehicle. It greatly effects handling, changes shock rebound valving, stresses suspension components like ball joints, a-arms & a-arm pivot points. I dont think these bigger axles are going to greatly effect the places I listed. But as you continue to build bigger heavier parts they will effect those places I listed.
Regarding Turner Axles having heat related issues. There are several ways to fix that issue. One is machining the CV joint housing to dissipate heat. The next is to use high quality grease. I'm sure they will say they are using good grease, but I guarantee they are not using the best types of CV grease".
Excellent write up and I agree, they need to own a strain gage to find the flex point of the stock axle and improve it a little bit along with the joints being able to run a higher angles. I will take a broken axle over a diff or trans. The only reason I am going aftermarket is to get a joint to run at a higher angle without getting hot.
You couldn't give me a gorilla axle. They harden the white dog crap out of the bars, if you break an axle in the spline, (all gorillas break there) the bar is just too hard. I agree with the hardness they use on the cup, balls and retainers, but even then you get an axle that when worn clicks like a Remington 12 gage pump, and has horrendous bind/steer.
I got my Rhino axles installed. I like the axle and the less rotating effort do to angle but who the hell spec'd these inner boots. I called Superatv and explained that there is no way these have enough bellows to hold up long. Does anyone have a better inner boot for these? Does anyone have a part number for a better inner boot and how does the axle come out of the inner CV joint? Does it have the standard clip?
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I've run Rhino's in the rear for sometime under some harsh conditions, never had a boot fail yet. Hope that instills some confidence. :encouragement:
Taz, the Rhino has a standard clip, I re-boot with a fast boot, they work good, the price is right and they hold up well enough. The stock boot held up to numerous rides in some nasty stuff, I think I damaged it when the bar came out of the inner CV while trying to remove it from the trans.
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