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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, Thought I'd posted my initial scenario earlier but can't find it. Anyway
Went out for a ride and engine over heated, replaced mech seal, impeller and thermostat. No more cooling problem but was getting pressurized coolant coming out of over flow plastic reservoir on start up. After engine ran for a few minutes it stabilized. Ran it around for about 5 minutes. No more overheating but will not run more than about 10 mph.
Hmmmm. I was not able to write down codes but i'm sure it was heat related. Anyway, broke down and took it to the dealership, Drove it off the trailer and turned over the keys. 4 days later called the dealership and they said it would not start and when they tried cranking it and it pushed coolant out reservoir cap like it did with me. they say they cleared the codes but wanted more time to check it out. They did say the fuel pump was within operating range but wanted more time. The holidays were just around the corner so I declined and brought it home. Did some more research and decided to check the top end.Pulled the head.The head gasket showed heating blisters and water spots. Also piston rings were stuck tight against pistons. . After the holidays I ended up replacing cylinder (was scored) pistons and rings, head gasket. So now I have 156 psi+- compression . Starts right up but will not go over 10mph. When I try to give it more gas pedal it bogs until I let off gas. Hmmm
did codes get cleared??? The nearest dealership is 70 miles away but is it possible that there is still a protection code still active? I enjoy working on machines and trouble shooting problems but I don't know what to do at this point. Any suggestions?
Dumont J
 

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You may be looking in the wrong direction. Pull the clutch cover and when in neutral rev the engine. Watch the clutches. Does the primary clutch close and the secondary clutch open up. The belt should ride at the top of the primary and bottom of the secondary when revved up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.
I pulled the clutch/belt cover and started the engine in neutral. let it warm a minute. Gave it some pedal and the rpms loped between 2500 and 3000 max. The primary clutched squeezed and raised the belt on the pulley. No belt slapping. All smooth. It pretty much acted the same as when I have it in gear. Loping, loping, loping. I also just disabled the emergency brake switch which has an over rev protection. Have a video of it but trying to get it from phone.
J
 

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"They did say the fuel pump was within operating range but wanted more time "
So Du, it only runs 10mph without buck'n, spit'n, back firing or are we really talking about a incompetent stealer who should have replaced the fuel assembly and perform a more thorough job of bleeding the air out of the cooling system ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I questioned the fuel pump dealer statement so I replaced it (no change) . Now I'm tracing sensor wires from CPS and
TPS.
 

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So Du,Do you have codes //////????..........If it is not low fuel pressure, you should have some codes ??? What is the fuel pressure after the tank ?/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fuel pressure is between 56 and 60 psi. As far as a code I did not read any before I turned off the ign switch. Is there a way to have the codes come back up?
 

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Fuel pressure is between 56 and 60 psi. As far as a code I did not read any before I turned off the ign switch. Is there a way to have the codes come back up?
Du, grab your owners manual and toggle thru any codes while they are up & running..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:-( no codes show up. Check engine light only comes on for a moment when key is turned on. Check connectors on Cps and Tps. Connections look good. I'm looking for a schematic that shows sensor wire # back to module (brain).
I have time on my hands (like most people now) I did take the cover off the accelerator cable connection box to see how it worked while I had the engine on. I push down on the accelerator, rpms go up to about 2500-3000 and then stumbles back close to 1000 rpms and then back up to 2500-3000 and my foot had not moved at all and ether did the accelerator cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply Tom but no switches on the seatbelts. I checked the voltage on the Throttle position sensor (TPS) and it starts at about 0.46 volts at an Idle but will not go over 0.82 volts. At the high RPM point. Then the rpms drop with the voltage dropping along with it. Not sure what is controlling the voltage. Still researching.
 

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Thanks for the reply Tom but no switches on the seatbelts. I checked the voltage on the Throttle position sensor (TPS) and it starts at about 0.46 volts at an Idle but will not go over 0.82 volts. At the high RPM point. Then the rpms drop with the voltage dropping along with it. Not sure what is controlling the voltage. Still researching.
Did you ever find a solution to this? Im having the same problem.
 
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