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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
To answer the questions one at a time:

Have not run the engine as the battery is out to get the cover off. The noise is a bit louder turning by had and I can tell where it was coming from with the cover off. Can feel the spider move a bit if I hold the cover and apply pressure on the spider a bit.

The secondary clutch is quiet, solid in no play. The belt rides just a bit above the top of the pulley about 1/16" - just enough you can see it. I think that may be due to the belt being thicker with cogs on both sides when compared to a flat top new belt.

.With the age of this machine and the hard use it has had prior to me owning it I would definitely go with a new clutch over having this one rebuilt. They are not that expensive off ebay.

All the suggestions and help is appreciated. My first S X S and learning a lot about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Curious as to what brand of belt you purchased?
Sleeve says A&I Products; Kevlar and gives the width and length. Width is a few thousands wider than specs, forget what it says for length. If I go with a new clutch will put the new belt on also and see where I am at of deflection.
 

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Good deal. Sounds like you've found the problem.
I bought an 04 off the showroom floor and was a solid machine. Cousin owns it now and still going strong.

Just a heads up. Because of the age and the hard use it's had. Those buttons in the secondary I mentioned. They wear down, and the affixing bolts can dig into the helix and ruin the whole clutch. It may be worth checking them out while you have it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks for help JR. Much appreciated. Knees are killing me today after working on the machine yesterday.. Will pull the secondary clutch tomorrow, might come off without the puller bolt and see how the buttons look. Any indication of wear will get them replaces. Will probably order a new complete clutch for it, ebay prices look good but like everything got to watch what your getting. The dogs on the high side are bad also. Uually will not go into high with engine running. Sometimes I can catch it just right and idling and slightly moveing backwards it will go in. Big $$$ to fix it and I don't use it very often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Got the new drive clutch today. After getting the old one off (with the removal bolt) it was loose all over compaired to the new one. The old belt was stretched out also though the width was ok yet. Put the new belt on and that is where I quit. Knees were not liking getting up and down - never seem to get all the tools I want/need the first time. Should get it back together in the morning some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Didn't like the feel of the primary clutch, had some wiggle on the shaft, parts not fitting tight etc. so put on a new clutch. Belt was stretched out so replaced it. Driven clutch was tight to the shaft, no play when rotating the back shiv, was quiet when rotated by hand. Got it all back together and fired it up and still have that clicking sound. Sounds like a playing card on a bicycle wheel. Starts as soon as the engine is started. Going to look at the tappets next.
 

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Before jumping to the engine you might remove the belt and run the engine to see if the noise disappears. By doing so you could isolate the noise to either the engine or the transmission. A bad bearing in the trans might make that kind of noise.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
I run the engine a bit with belt off and new clutch on. Still had the noise. Also with the belt on, machine in gear and foot on the brake to hold it the transmission should not be turning and still have the noise. Speed of the noise varies with the engine rpm. The noise started all at once when it was started in the garage to use. Didn't come on gradually. Had the compression release shaft break in the cam last year so had that all replaced. Wouldn't think that would make that kind of noise but guess anything is possibly if it failed again.
 

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At this point is sounds like you have narrowed the problem to the engine. There's really nothing left to do but dig into it. I think I'd start with looking at the valve train and the compression release. I don't know much about the 500 but if it has hydraulic lifters it may be that a lifter is collapsed or sticking. This would allow increased valve clearance and make a tapping sound that increases in frequency with engine speed. Of course, in the case of most other internal problems frequency will also increase with speed. It may sound like a small possibility but sometimes an exhaust leak can sound like a clicking noise. That's something easy to look for without tearing into the engine. Beyond that it could be a chipped gear tooth on a cam gear (if equipped) a bearing knock or a loose cam chain (if equipped). Hopefully jungleman, BPS or some other member more familiar with the 500 will step up with suggestions. I'll be following to learn what you do. Good luck resolving your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Bigger problem now. Died coming home after easy short use. Coasted to the front of the shop. No start. Compression test showed 15 lb. That is where I left it. Has over 1100 hours on it and hour meter was not working when I got it. Has oil leak between jug and block. Either need to overhaul this one or replace it. Haven't located a used one yet. May end up with rebuilding this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Found a used 500 engine down in Texas. Salvage outfit. Said they would provide "information" on the engine, etc. No warranty and no return. $1850 plus shipping to Iowa ! Say WHAT !!! Another $150 I get a full rebuilt engine with 6 mo warranty and free shipping. They must think they have the only 500 engine on earth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Pulled the valve cover today. Long narrow screwdriver down the plug hole. Piston is going up and down, valves are opening and closing. Intake lash is OK, exhaust seemed a bit tight. I tried to turn the engine over with a screwdriver on the side of the cam chain. It turns fairly easy which tells me there is not much friction between the piston and cylinder walls. I think the engine is toast. Well over 1100 hours showing on the clock and it was not working when I got the machine so anybody's guess how many hours are actually on the unit. Rebuilt engines from a fairly local source are on back order so will park it for the winter and get a rebuilt engine when they become available. Still have the 4 wheeler and yard cart for hauling duties.
 
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