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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

After my first ride in the new ranger at night I realized how crappy the stock headlights were. Wishing I would have ordered lights with the roof. I emailed ProBox and their response was "if you order the light through us we'll supply you with the mounts you need" they would not sell the mounts individually. They did say i could drill right through the roof and use the standard mounts, but the lights would sit either above or below the roof. So I did some research and read through many of these threads, and figured out how I would set these up: I want a 40" bar on the front (possibly curved?) and a 6 or 12 inch on the rear. I want to wire these to two OTRATTW switches and put them in the dash. I've done some stereo wiring, but nothing in this area.

So my main questions are: should i buy the probox lights w/ mounts, or buy another brand, and could I have some advice on wiring the switches (what I need besides the switches themselves, should I use a relay, ect.)

-- switches: OTRATTW
and
OTRATTW

wiring diagram: http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/J66a.pdf

Thanks for all y'all's help
 

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The big thing to remember is to fuse things so you don't have a burndown if a wire rubs through or you miswire something.

From what I've read online a 40" LED bar typically pulls about 10A. The switch you have is rated at 20A so you can control the bar directly with the switch, not needing a relay unless you want to use one.

You can take fuseholder that uses blade type fuses, the same as those already in your Ranger, and tie into the switched hot post under the hood on your ride.

I would use #14 wire (rated at 15A) or #12 wire (rated at 20A) and fuse accordingly.

Come from the fuseholder to the switch terminal 2.

From switch terminal 3 go to your light bar terminal.

From the other terminal or wire on the light bar, go back to the ground bus on your Ranger.


You can make the pilot lights on your switch work if you want. You can make one run constantly and the other come on with the lights.

I made mine with the lower light on all the time and the upper light on with my accessory.

For this take a ground from your ground post to terminals 7 and 8 on your switch. The upper light is internally wired from terminal 3 to 8, when the switch closes and sends power to the bar it will also light the upper pilot light.

To keep the lower light on when your Ranger key is on, run a jumper from switch terminal 2 to terminal 6.

Run your wiring in a loom to keep it protected and secure it with zip ties to keep it from getting pinched or wound up in the engine and you're good.

For my rear lighting I took up the floorboard and ran wiring along other wires to the rear and up to my mounting point.

I don't have a light bar on the roof and really don't know what to tell you there.


Attached is a link showing how I did an accessory fuse block. It shows pictures of the constant hot, switched and ground posts on the Ranger.


http://www.prcforum.com/forum/17-ranger-discussions/40841-painless-wiring-fuse-block-install.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks, big help on the switch wiring. One more question, would it be easier just to put an in-line fuse for both lights, or do you recommend a fuse block? And do I need to order a terminal block for the rear of the switch?
 

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You can use the terminal blocks for the switches. I've got a couple switches where I used them but others where I just used the spade connectors directly on the switch and left it.

If this is all you plan to add, an inline fuse would be fine. If you plan to add many more accessories then a terminal block of some sorts would be beneficial since it will keep the post from becoming crowded.

I added front, rear and interior lights, powered a constant hot 12V receptacle, added gauges, a heater (fan power) and windshield wiper. Putting a ring terminal for each of those would have really loaded up the accessory posts. The way I have it the posts only have a couple ring terminals each. The heater fan and wipers were the only ones I wired directly to the post. Everything else went through the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I understand. I'm not planning on adding too many more accessories, the ProBox kinda has everything I would need for the interior; inline fuses would probably work fine.

The ProBox light bar has a 22 amp @ 12v current draw; would that mean I would need a relay for the switch?

Anyone else on light bar recommendations?
 

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Yeah I understand. I'm not planning on adding too many more accessories, the ProBox kinda has everything I would need for the interior; inline fuses would probably work fine.

The ProBox light bar has a 22 amp @ 12v current draw; would that mean I would need a relay for the switch?

Anyone else on light bar recommendations?
22 amps would require a relay - the OTRATTW switches are either 15 or 20 amps so without a relay, you could burn up the switches pretty quick!
 

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That's a monster light bar! I just picked an led unit at random and saw 10A!

Fswan is right you need a relay.

You need a 30A relay and #10 wire fused at 30A.

The switch part will stay the same as far as wiring goes, instead of going to the light bar the switch will now pull in the relay.

On that switch you can downsize wiring since it's only pulling in a relay. 18 gauge is really easy to deal with and will easily handle the relay current. Fuse it at 10A max.

Hope that helps, sorry not the most thorough explanation, it's a little hard to type it all out on my phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, I'm considering purchasing a bar with an included harness:

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

The harness includes a relay and a toggle switch; any advice on how to convert it to wire to the otrattw switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Light bar recommendations? Is it better to have the bar sit below the roof (standard mount) or in front of top (pro box mount)?

standard mount (photo - TXcazador)

image.jpg

Probox mount :

image.jpg

Thanks
 

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Sorry for the delay. I typically don't get online much during the week.

Adding the otrattw switch to your harness should be simple.

The switch you have has 3 wires. One is positive from the Ranger. One is negative, it's just used to complete the circuit for the pilot light. The other is the switch lead that goes to the relay in your case.


Take the positive from the Ranger to terminals 2 and 6 on the otrattw switch.

Take the negative for the pilot light to terminals 7 and 8.

Take the switch lead to terminal 3 on the otrattw switch.



You should be able to ID the wires pretty easily by color or with an ohm meter. You'll have to also make up a short piece of a jumper with spade terminals on either ends.

If you make one end of your jumper with one of these you'll not have to cut a thing!

Piggy-Back 1/4" | All Electronics Corp.

Or if you're like me, for a small low current jumper like these (for pilot lights, etc) I cheat and put two wires in the next largest male spade connector. Typically 2 wires under one lug is a major no no in power wiring (unless the connector is designed for it), but for small 12V wiring I really don't worry.
 

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Sorry for the delay.

I'm not quite sure if I'm answering your question right, but basically the terminal is where the wire lands.

On the switch there will be a flat piece of metal sticking out the back with a number beside it. For example if the flat piece has a 2 next to it, that's terminal 2.

You can also use the terminal terminology :) to describe the crimp on devices that go on the end of the wire that allow you to connect the wire to the flat metal piece on the switch.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can you tell me where to get the mount for the light bar
honestly I was just going to use the included mounts with the aftermarket light bar, but if you're talking about the probox bar, they come included with it and you can't buy them separately. shoot them an email and they can tell you about the lighting options if your interested.
 

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I'm going to have my lights sit bellow the roof. My ranger is lifted and I'm always hitting low hanging limbs and I can just imagine ripping my lights off!

I need more light put I don't know if I should spend the money on the high dollar american made or the knock Chinese.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I need more light put I don't know if I should spend the money on the high dollar american made or the knock Chinese.
the rigids are amazing but the with the amount I'm going to use them i don't see the point in dropping the money, check out lightitupoffroad on here , they sell Totron which are still pretty good compared to rigids or other high-dollar bars, and they have some of the lowest prices I've seen
 

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I have a ProBox top and purchased a 40" bar from Matt @ Light It Up. It is awesome!!! I mounted mine below the top using the hardware that comes with the bard. I drilled hole through my top & used stainless steel bolts, washers & lock nuts. It is solid as a rock. 570 with LED.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have a ProBox top and purchased a 40" bar from Matt @ Light It Up. It is awesome!!! I mounted mine below the top using the hardware that comes with the bard. I drilled hole through my top & used stainless steel bolts, washers & lock nuts. It is solid as a rock. View attachment 5505
holy crap that's just what I've been looking for, could you PM me some pics on how you rigged it up?
 
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