PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a search but didn't come up with any matches on moving the upper rear shock mount. I want to move it too the outside holes for more load capacity and wanted to know if there are any issues to worry about, how easy is it, etc.. Any one done this yet? Any troubles? Hints?

Thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
I just moved mine to the outer holes and it wasn't hard at all. I just jacked the rear end up off the ground a little bit. I also used a line up punch to help get the holes lined back up. One thing that you want to try and becareful of is when tapping the shock outward try not to drive it clear out of the slot. If you do it's no big deal all you have to do is pry it down with pry bar and tap it back into the slot. It's not bad at all and should only take you a few minutes to do. Hope this helps.


Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,463 Posts
What Chief said. But mine was a @#$%*&!!!! to get back in when I let it get out of the channel.....I think it was because of the 2" lift though.
Ted, I didn't know that you can adjust the tension.....can you? If so, how? I just added a little weight to the rear of mine that I would like to compensate for.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I moved the shocks to the outside, no problems as mentioned but you have to pull hard and push the wheel down to get the top of the shock to go under the main frame tubing. Also the bolt head near he muffler is a little tight. How tight should the shock bolts be? I put mine as tight as I could get them.

To change the tension on the spring you just turn the collar at the bottom of the spring there are 5 positions I believe and factory is at 1 the lowest setting. I have not done this yet, any tips on what to use instead of a shock wrench? Below is a url for a motorcycle shock wrench does this fit the Ranger shocks?

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item.aspx?WT.mc_ID=10001&WT.srch=1&Department=646&Division=6&class=278&style=7980&gclid=CM_ZvOXyj4wCFQGPWAodQBuhAQ&WT.mc_ev=click
 

· Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Lift the back end off of the ground and then use a big pair of channel locks. Spanner wrench works good too, but you have to have the right size. Channel Locks Rock!!!

freddy
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
Jack,

To answer your question I really haven't had a chance to haul much weight in the back yet. I like that the Ranger sits more level now. Before the rear end was sitting fairly high.

Jerry,

The adjustment on the shocks are right at the bottom of the spring. You'll see a funny shaped stair stepped looking collar with notches that goes around the shock itself. You should have gotten a spanner wrench with your tool kit that turns this collar. One direction compresses the spring and the other decopresses the spring tension. Hope this helps.


Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
656 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I noticed that the back was looked more level to me after moving the shock mounts outward. The reason I want as much capacity as possible is I have to get some loads of sand from a about a mile down the road for a paver project. I have to say this is the handiest tool I have, I sure make a lot of use out of the cargo box! Lots of project here on.

Thanks for the channel lock tip I'll try that.


Brian - Do the rangers come with a tool kit or do you have to order one?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
Your Ranger should have came with a tool kit in the glove box. It's not much, just a hand full of cheap basic tools but the spanner wrench is in there, or at least it should be. I've used the spanner wrench before but I had to put a short cheater pipe on the end of it. The channel locks like Fred mentioned work real well to.


Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
I'm not sure it lowers the rear much but it does stiffen it up a little bit. When I installed the lift I installed front and rear. I noticed that the rear set-up a little bit higher than the front which was perfect when I had my rear seat, cage and kids all in the back. Once all that was loaded it set nice and level with hardly any squatting. Since I've turned my seats around next to the cab I really didn't need the extra height. So thats why I took the lift out but did move the shocks to the outer holes just in case I do haul a decent amount of weight. Sorry for the long winded story on my situation but thats the scoop. LOL

Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,898 Posts
I've got aftermarket ITP C-Series Type 7 wheels that have a built in off set that keeps the sidewalls away from the sway bar. As far as the ride goes I haven't noticed it riding any rougher. I don't think it will squat as bad now compared to when I had them on the inside hole with the same amount of weight in the bed but I guess we'll see.

Brian<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RANGERJACK

Brian, thanks for the earlier reply. Now without the lift and the shocks moved to the outside position do your tires rub on the torsion bar and is the ride much rougher?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top