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Discussion Starter #1
With 300 miles on our '20 2 door XP1000 Northstar, I am getting to know it and see how things are wearing in.
Enough for a review. With slight comparison to our traded in '16 Rzr 570, very well tricked out.
So hear it goes. ...Where to start.

Power. Plenty of power for me. Breaking in well and seems very smooth in power delivery. In standard power mode its works suitable. In performance mode it jumps right to it! But in reality I think it just moves response quicker at the gas pedal. Like in half inch of movement (performance) vs 1 1/2" inch of movement (standard). Thats ok.

Active Decent Control. ADC is a danger in my opinion. When you are going downhill, crawling, on loose ground (sand, gravel, loose shale etc) that back end will swing around. ...Not safe! If you know, your turn into it (like a powerslide). I hope people know that. If not you stand the chance to roll in a downhill slide sideways situation. Again, not safe at all.
I wonder if Polaris tests a vehicle in this situation. If Gilomen reduces ADC, that will be my main reason to reflash.

Suspension. Plush enough for me. Absorbs decent going slow, and then going faster it absorbs chatter (rocky roads) even better. It articulates well in the undulating gullies for me.
I have not pushed it into whoop de doos or jumps... And probably won't lol...
Slides well, on demand almost, very fun! (I put it in 2wd posi for slides)
My Ranger is a tractor. It hooks up and grabs on a couple of rocky trails I know. I won't try to be a rock crawler, but sometimes you meet a stair stepped trail, you have to go through. I feel it (and me) can do most.

Chatter and squeaks, clicks and clunks... If I was blind folded, and put in my XP, I would think I was in a well worn 10 year old SxS. Not a new 2020 model.
The suspension or cab squeaks, quite a lot of squeak actually. Springs, bushing or rubber, I am not sure. There is rattle coming from under the bed. Probably tin rubbing on itself.
Clunking from the front end. Is it the differential, or suspension or steering? I am not sure, but I can provoke it by whipping the steering wheel from left to right. I would say its increasing with time.
As we know the springs sag quick - I feel mine are at 300 miles. I'll tape measure it again to see.
If this much noise came out of a 32k Subaru you would return it. But a 32k Polaris Northstar and you get what you get.
Piss poor IMO.

Comfort and interior. Very upright seating as compared to my 570 Rzr (with Beard seats). But also very comfortable over time. Good cushion in the seats. No complaints with seating.
Gauges with Ride Comand/Gps/stereo. And good, great gauges and info IMO. Simple to toggle through for this old fart.
There is enough interior noise from the engine that the basic stereo (my setup) is worthless unless stopped with the motor off.
And to me, 300 watts of upgraded stereo is a waste to try to get quality sound over a roaring motor. I was hoping for better, but its about the ride, not just the tunes. Gps works everywhere. Mapping your route is awesome with colored routing. Bluetooth works most everywhere too. I have killer pandora channels! (when parked motor off lol)
Shifts, steers & brakes just fine. A responsive machine IMO.
Now the windshield, specifically the wiper & washer. The wiper works fine. Now for the washer... Poor design!
It sprays down, and after you spray then wipe, fluid continues to drip down. Its a non ending cycle - spray, wipe, drip, spray, wipe, drip. Then the washer itself clogs. Not a good spray at all - mine is clogged. Also when I spray it drips on the inside, down on my legs. WTF. Cheap Sh/t.

Width. Its a pretty wide vehicle at 65". I knew that going in, so I may miss out on fun narrow trails at some point (if I go to Utah or Idaho). Non issue around my area.

In conclusion, I sound rather critical. Its just a 15K Ranger, right?. But with factory upgrades of a Northstar, it becomes a 30K plus investment. So yes I am critical.
Overall I do love this vehicle. Power and comfort.
Dust free. Did I say dust free? It is dust free inside. That is what makes it for my wife and I.
Our neighbors just bought a beautiful Honda Talon, and on their maiden outing with us, they came back dust bunnies. I feel for them.

So... Power, comfort (suspension and seating), and dust free. Winner.
The details mentioned above... Polaris is off the mark. They should knock 5K off the price for such a squeaking clattering machine.
I am fine with it, its a keeper. Upgrades to come, and did I mention dust free??!!!
Have at it!
 

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@Maxpolaris good review. My clunks and squeaks seems to have gone away a bit. I have almost 800 miles on our 2019 Backcountry. The roof I installed actually helped with some noises as it seemed to stiffen up the cage/rops.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does your Ranger have the Backcountry package?
No
It doesn't look like the Northstar gets a Backcountry package, maybe just the open cab XP's?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@Maxpolaris good review. My clunks and squeaks seems to have gone away a bit. I have almost 800 miles on our 2019 Backcountry. The roof I installed actually helped with some noises as it seemed to stiffen up the cage/rops.
I hope thats the case with me also Stroke. My dirt roads/two track are slightly rocky, overused trails. Brings on the noises.
 

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The Backcountry is the only one that has ADC so the problem you are having is caused by the overly aggressive EBS which only holds back with the rear wheels and lets the fronts freewheel. This causes the rears to lose traction and slide sideways just like you say yours does.
The ADC should alleviate the problem you are having by using both the front and rear tires to hold back.
You might be able to change the secondary helix to the standard and change the one way bearing in the primary to the two way which will let the primary release the belt and let your rear wheels stop sliding. But then you have to use the brakes to slow your descent. But that usually works better on slick hills than having the rears locked up and sliding sideways.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks rocknroll. I am confused which one I have, but maybe the EBS then? I will read my manual further.
I do know it works to about 6-7 mph, then the motor sputters at 7-8 mph, then engine braking releases it seems.
Gilomen told me I have a one way bearing and putting in a two way bearing would eliminate the ebs completely?
I am confused between ADC & EBS... 🤔
In my mind I would like some form of engine braking, but better than I have now. Surely.
I wonder what the front to rear bias is of what I have now. Rear only you say? This does not sound safe. Maybe a 80/20 f to r bias, or 90/10 f to r bias would be a better bias? Or just an even bias.
I am used to gears & compression braking for sure. Freewheeling & brakes only, I do not think is a good answer (unless racing). Hmmm... I will have to weigh my options.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh.. So I can eliminate the EBS with a two way bearing, then and ADC for 4 wheel braking??
 

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Great review. I’d like to add from my experience.
the A/C is good it helps but it’s not great. At 32c it cools but not great.
I also have the same jingling noise coming from the rear. I suspect clutches.
one thing mine dies in the performance mode when idling is the engine surges. Rpm fluctuates it will go to the dealer for that.
I am very happy with mine. No major issues, I have 800 miles on mine.
 

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Oh.. So I can eliminate the EBS with a two way bearing, then and ADC for 4 wheel braking??
Engine braking has differing degrees of retard from the engine according to the way the ramps are designed in the helix in the secondary clutch.
The EBS system combines an aggressive retard helix with a one way bearing.
The engine braking is controlled by the belt being engaged by the primary clutch until the speed drops enough that the belt drops on to the bearing in the bottom of the primary which is around 1 to maybe 3-5 mph according to how steep the grade. This one way bearing will let the engine go faster than the belt so it can idle but it won't let the belt go faster than the engine so when you go down a hill the engine braking is always engaged so when the tires slide they keep on sliding. You can change to the two way bearing with the EBS secondary and it will release at low speeds like the standard non EBS.
Without EBS you still have some engine braking but when the tires start sliding the engine speed drops and the clutch releases the belt and the rear tires stop sliding. That is when you need to hit the brakes to slow down. The non EBS secondary clutch also has a less aggressive helix which many people like, me included.
The ADC is only available factory installed so it is not something you can add on easily or cheaply.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My review now goes to destroyed wiring with two packrats having their way. My wiring is shot.
Yes everything works but I have bare gnarled copper stands everywhere.
Its unbelievable the electrical harnesses, battery and a/c ducting are exposed, which includes mud flying in.
I am surprised more people don't have rodent damage. Or caked mud in and around the fuel tank, battery and harnesses.
I don't know what to say. I need new harnesses. Its like my wiring was a delicatessen for those little phucks.
Bare wire on bare wire hmmm...
I keep my Ranger outdoors in a carport.
 

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My review now goes to destroyed wiring with two packrats having their way. My wiring is shot.
Yes everything works but I have bare gnarled copper stands everywhere.
Its unbelievable the electrical harnesses, battery and a/c ducting are exposed, which includes mud flying in.
I am surprised more people don't have rodent damage. Or caked mud in and around the fuel tank, battery and harnesses.
I don't know what to say. I need new harnesses. Its like my wiring was a delicatessen for those little phucks.
Bare wire on bare wire hmmm...
I keep my Ranger outdoors in a carport.
Omg. That’s awful. Insurance claim?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Omg. That’s awful. Insurance claim?
Maybe? I will have to look into that. I just have liability on it, not full coverage. Grrr...
I consider my Ranger either a fire hazard or a short out fuse blower. ...Nether has happened yet. Thankfully.
I am looking to change out the entire harness. Looks like the street legal harness is chewed up too.
Thing is, it could happen again.
So... I am reading up on rodent resistant tape/wraps. Also, I have to screen off the rear area in front of the motor. It is wide open to rodent intrusion.
I also have to check various Polaris dealers to do the work. Not all dealers are created equal. I am not sure I would have faith in my dealer to change out harnesses. I am thinking its mostly plug & play? Yet still very buried within the chassis/tunnels/ducts etc.
A shame... as my upgrade wheels just came in, and the tires are on the way too. ...Need a snow plow before winter.
PHUCK

131370
 

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That is shitty. On the bright side, be glad it’s a not a crew as you don’t have that much more wire,panels, clips, etc to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That is shitty. On the bright side, be glad it’s a not a crew as you don’t have that much more wire,panels, clips, etc to deal with.
That is a consolation!
I will go through this methodically and get my rig up to snuff again.
 

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Someone told me the wire casings have a soy component which seems to attract rodents.

Is that true?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Yes, plant based as I understand. I have heard Mercedes has this issue too. Among others?
I truly am not sure if that the case with Polaris wiring, but they sure munched on mine.
 
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