I have a 15' Ranger Midsize 570 that i recently installed a set of 27" Dirt Tamers on. The are mounted on factory Bruiser wheels and I had to mount the Tie Rods on the underside of the strut so that they would not rub the tire. Upon initial test drive i noticed that the Ranger was very "jerky", wanting to pull unexpectedly right or left at random times. I thought maybe this was due to bidy roll from the increased ride height and the sway bar being disconnected. So i reconnected the sway bar, but it did not help. I put 10 miles on the machine today but all at liw speeds. It is impossible to ride at speeds of 20mph due to the steering wheel literally "ripping" out of my hands and trying to turn sharply left or right. I aligned the front wheels back up with string and measurement method, the same way i aligned my two beater trucks that drive true and straight. Does anyone have any clue as to why this is happening. Is it possible to put a steering stabilizer on these? I dont really think power steering is going to help. I had to take the tires off and put the stock back on. When i say that i can not drive it over 20mph, it is not an understatment. It is scary to even ride 15 with both hands firmly holding the steering wheel.
Nearly undriveable after GBC Dirt Tamer install
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Under stock configuration, you're making a big change in toe moving them under.
Hence the drivability problem.
You either need new rims, or spacers to correct your modified steering angle.
Hence the drivability problem.
You either need new rims, or spacers to correct your modified steering angle.
I understand that moving the tie rods under the arm changes the toe. I readjusted the toe to compensate for the tie rod mounting under. Im not really sure how the tie rod mounted under changes driveability. I could if i just mounted the tie rods under the arm and didn't adjust the tie rods. It would cause the steering to be toe out....
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It changes everything.
You've moved the geometry of the steering linkage. every time you hit a bump now the steering is going to react differently than it did before. you may or may not even have the same steering radius you had before. I'm surprised there was enough adjustment in the linkage left to even adjust your toe!.
Bottom line is, what you've done isn't going to work, and if you keep running it like that, it's going to get your hurt and mess your machine up too. the 27 inch dirt tamers are not your problem, the rims you ordered are incorrect.
You've moved the geometry of the steering linkage. every time you hit a bump now the steering is going to react differently than it did before. you may or may not even have the same steering radius you had before. I'm surprised there was enough adjustment in the linkage left to even adjust your toe!.
Bottom line is, what you've done isn't going to work, and if you keep running it like that, it's going to get your hurt and mess your machine up too. the 27 inch dirt tamers are not your problem, the rims you ordered are incorrect.
Im not trying to argue with you. Yes it changes the angle of the tie rod by a few degrees. As does any independant suspension atv/SxS lift and leveling kit for vehicles. The only thing i can think off is maybe the tie rod being at different angles than the a arms creates issues during suspension travel. And i didn't order any rims, they are factory bruiser wheels. But i know...... They do not have enough backspacing....
Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the advice.
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Factory rims. 10wide outlaws. Zero problems.
You either need rims with proper back spacing or spacers.
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You either need rims with proper back spacing or spacers.
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Using the string method isn't really right either. You have to measure the tire spacing at the front and the back of the tire. It has to be 1/8" to 1/4" wider at the front than the rear. It must be tied out or the steering can react too quickly. I agree with the others, you need wheel spacers and need to move the tie rods back to stock location. As your wheel turns the tie rod angle increases when it's mounted on the underside.
Ill try to get a few pics, the side lugs of the dirt tamers are hitting the tie rods. 1" spacers will easily solve the problem but i didn't want too much tire sticking out past the fender to cut down on throwing mud.
I understand the angle increases when turning, i checked that nothig would bind/rub and full lock combined with full droop before i ran them on the underside.
I measured the front and back of the tire using the string method. The front is wider than the rear... I parralled a string with the back rim. Measuring the same distance from thw wheel surface to the string on both backside and frontside of the tire. Giving me a straight and true line parralell to the rear tires. Then trued the front up using that line. Yes the measuremt is shorter than the rear due to the wider front. But the measurements whrre the same on the front and back side of the front tire. Guess ill order some spacers and incoporate the full size fender flares on the midsize as i read some one here has done before.
I understand the angle increases when turning, i checked that nothig would bind/rub and full lock combined with full droop before i ran them on the underside.
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There's a company that makes a slip on spacer that's around 1/4" that was enough to clear 26x9 Bighorns on factory wheels on my 500. I added the 1" spacers later.
Edit: Here they are. rubberdown customs - atv Wheel Spacers , Do it your self installation instructions, front and back kits
Edit: Here they are. rubberdown customs - atv Wheel Spacers , Do it your self installation instructions, front and back kits
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Depending on the backspacing, just turn the rim around. 
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its an aluminum rim.Depending on the backspacing, just turn the rim around.
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I just checked their website. They're located in Niagara Falls, Ontario.
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Sounds right, shipping was pretty quick though.
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