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Nethawk's E-Brake Fix

86530 Views 117 Replies 61 Participants Last post by  Jason Benson
3
I finally had some time to work on my E brake problem and here is what I came up with.
This first pic is the completed assembly, notice the thickness of the pads compared to stock


Here I am using the stock pad for marking the holes to be drilled in car pad. Be carefull because each of the 2 stock pads are different.[xx(]

Here we have the Napa #'s for the pads. We just looked through a few boxes till I found one I liked, maybe someone else will find a better substitute?


It was 2 hours well spent[:D][:p] Very satisfied with results. After adjusting cable back to "lowest settting"( I now have all adjustment left) I went to back up and couldn't move[?] Thought I was in neutral. Released brake and took off back to work. Now I will know if E brake is on. You cant budge it. OK now I had to give it a real test[}:)] WOT down road and apply E brake, locked up real nice. This is what it should have worked like to begin with.
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Nice job. Great pictures.
Hi Friend,
Your photos of he e-brake repair are magnifient! Thank you. My toy is is in a cold barn in cold northern NY until I can get up there in the spring. Therefore I can't examine the pads at this time. When I get up there I'd like to be ready to do the same repair (and add the EZ Pull!).

I'd like to ask: Does the first photo (where you say "notice the thickness of the pads compared to stock") show both the old and new brake pads installed together? Or, are those slim plates just metal backers for the pad?

Many thanks.

LarryD
Just want to add this because the napa auto parts in my area closed up. For any one that needs to go to one of the competitors the pads are used on a 2000 to 2004 buick le sabre and 1997 to 2003 buick regal. D699 would be the industry part number for the pads.
Great info, thanks
I remember this topic a while back and thought there was a second post that had more info and pictures. I seem to remember that the bolts needed to be changed and there were better pictrues showing what area of the pads needed to be ground down for clearance reasons.
I tried looking on the old site but can't seem to locate this additional information. Does anybody remember this and is it still available somewhere? Thanks to anyone that can help.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Phantom

I remember this topic a while back and thought there was a second post that had more info and pictures. I seem to remember that the bolts needed to be changed and there were better pictrues showing what area of the pads needed to be ground down for clearance reasons.
I tried looking on the old site but can't seem to locate this additional information. Does anybody remember this and is it still available somewhere? Thanks to anyone that can help.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Phantom,
Just completed the mod on a friends 2006 500 ranger,doing my 2007 700xp next week.........here is what we discovered, The mod is excellent,200% better than stock.........Just a couple of extra tid bits we found that had to be done.........1st we used 3" bolts in place of the stock ones that hold the pads together,the stock ones were too short with the added width of the new pads.........then get springs that are approx. double the length of the stock ones (any old brake spring will do,we just happened to have a set of green ones for a chev. that worked great)...........make sure where you drill the holes in the new pads,that the new spring, when in place, rests against the steel of the pad, basically remove excess pad material.............Other than adjusting the cable all the way back,that's it.........A very good mod, completed in 2hrs or less........thanks again to Nethawk for posting this.........[:)]
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can this be done to a series 11?
i would love an ebrake again....
I did this e brake mod to my 2005 700 xp. I used 1996 dodge one ton front brake pads, the only thing I did was cut the springs down. The e brake works so good that you will smoke belt if you don't remember to release the brake. This is a great mod.
absea, I fixed mine - But [:I] I didn't know which way the nut goes on the cable up or down? ( It works great )
Attepting this modification. So far i have, 15 minutes taking the Ebrake off, 3 minutes taking it apart, 2 days finding the 3 steel ball bearings that rolled all over my unkept shop area, 1 hour in drilling. Lets just say calling me a shoddy mechanic would be overkill. Still have a few things to do before hooking back up.
Will these brake pads be the same for my '05 6x6?
I'd look for myself, but the Ranger is at home an the computer I use for the neenernet is at my office.
Yes they will (to answer my own question)... Called the dealer to verify it, then I whent to NAPA! Now to find me that easy pull.
Did you have to shave down the cam part, because I can't get mine to fit at all? Anyone else have some more pics/

Chris
I am half way through this mod, ok I 'm actually almost complete but my Ranger is over at a friends having some final mods done to my cage so I can't put it back together.

After getting the brake assembly apart and seeing how it exactly works, I can't see how this is going to make a difference. The emergency brake in it's design only has an on or off setting the way it pops out of the ball socket. I had always thought it had an infinite adjustment until the pads wore out. Now I see once it is worn out no adjustment of the cable is going to make a difference.

The only thing I can think of is maybe the pad material grips better than the stock pads?
yeah, whoever designed that weaksauce parking brake needs to step out back of the woodshed with me for a good old fashion @[email protected] kicking......just retarded...freeking ball bearings??? gimme a break mygyver
3
Does anyone have a part number or good source for the bigger springs?


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by absea

I finally had some time to work on my E brake problem and here is what I came up with.
This first pic is the completed assembly, notice the thickness of the pads compared to stock


Here I am using the stock pad for marking the holes to be drilled in car pad. Be carefull because each of the 2 stock pads are different.[xx(]

Here we have the Napa #'s for the pads. We just looked through a few boxes till I found one I liked, maybe someone else will find a better substitute?


It was 2 hours well spent[:D][:p] Very satisfied with results. After adjusting cable back to "lowest settting"( I now have all adjustment left) I went to back up and couldn't move[?] Thought I was in neutral. Released brake and took off back to work. Now I will know if E brake is on. You cant budge it. OK now I had to give it a real test[}:)] WOT down road and apply E brake, locked up real nice. This is what it should have worked like to begin with.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
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What are the chances of getting someone to fabricate these pads for sale? Any ideas? Seems like there would be a pretty good following. I sure don't have the know how.
i searched 2000 buick lesabre on napa:

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=3&SubCatId=1

which pad would it be? theres a bunch of different kinds and idk the difference between them all.
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