PRC Polaris Ranger Club banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Newbie from central NC here, Santa brought an XP900 Hunter. I am wanting to run wiring for accessories, lights, stereo speakers, etc. and I am having trouble finding a way to route several wires from inside the dash through the floor mounted hump to the rear of the machine. Once i get to the back of the cab, I am home free. Can anyone provide some insight as to how they ran their wires down into the hump? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
I just got done doing this project,,there is a couple ways to do this,,i only ran 1 pos and one neg #8 wire from the battery up front under the hood area to a 100 amp breaker to a 80 amp constant on solenoid switched on by key with the lug under hood from the factory to a separate fuse box,and from the fuse box to the hole that's marked out in the firewall running everything on separate fuses and the fuse box has a place for all the grounds too ,,,,this was the easiest way and safest way that I could think of for running lights heat and everything you want
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! I have everything planned out, fuse block, circuit breakers, relays, etc., but cannot find a good route for wires from behind the dash to the rear of the cab. Thanks for the information. Ride looks great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
There is no good route. There is a route, however.
Follow the shifter cable. Take some tranquilizers first.

Good luck :D
No kidding! I had about three tranquilizers before I got the wires fished through on my first one:) I like to go down where the factory harness goes but its really hard to get it to go behind the brace and around into the tunnel. This is hard to explain maybe by the weekend I will get some pics. Factory instructions on other electrical items show to go around that brace more into the front of the machine. But it tends to rub on things if you are not careful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
On my 13 900, I pulled the plastic rivets from the floor tunnel cover and removed it and it will give you wide open access to come from the front to the rear. Only takes about 5 minutes to remove it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. Following the factory harness behind that brace is exactly where I am talking about. A few pictures would be much appreciated. Once I get to the bottom and remove the tunnel cover, I am home free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
On my 13 900, I pulled the plastic rivets from the floor tunnel cover and removed it and it will give you wide open access to come from the front to the rear. Only takes about 5 minutes to remove it.
Bane, do you just pull with pliers or is there a special tool. Worried about breaking the rivet with pliers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
They are plastic push darts. Take a flat screwdriver and gently pry the plastic center up, you don't need to pull it all the way out, then remove the whole push dart when it becomes loose.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,572 Posts
Wait till you add rear winch cables.:nightmare:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I had drilled a hole on the drivers side of the firewall and added a rubber grommet... The dealership crowded the passenger side when they ran the winch wires and did a piss poor job. I did however run my main power and neg wires through the pass side factory grommet . All accessory wires are on opposite side. I was absolutely clueless on wiring relays and switches when I started.... Patience and several private messages to fswan , and now I've been going around telling my buddies that their junk is wired wrong.... There is great people here, that will go out of their way ...we are truly lucky
Electronics Vehicle Technology Auto part Automotive lighting

Electronics Electrical wiring Technology Wire Auto part

Vehicle Car Auto part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Like said before, take a screwdriver and pull the heads up a little. The pliers that come in your tool kit have groves in them to grab the pin and pull it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Thanks. Just didn't want to try and pull the rivets accidentally breaking one and then find out there was a special tool.

Realrider380 (Ryan) nice job on the wiring. Is that a piece of plastic or sheet metal you have the relay and fuse box screwed onto? I'm looking to add a fuse box to my Ranger and like your layout. I need to cleanup the dealerships wiring job they did on the plow installation and want a clean organized box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ryan, nice job on the wiring. Lots of good ideas in here. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Auto part
A few more pics of my plate I made... I originally intended to bend one up but decided that keeping it flat and adding spacers underneath would give me more surface area to mount my fuse block , relays and battery issolator.
Auto part

Transport Vehicle Room Car

Electronics Vehicle Technology Auto part Automotive lighting

Electronics Technology Vehicle Electronic device Car
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top