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Discussion Starter #1
Ok the other day while hunting all my accessories stopped working. So I figured a Lose connection. Turns out my secondary batt which is my 925 only has 5 volts and is flat. So my question is. Is my smart isolator not working properly or is my battery bad. Been running this setup for about 6 months maybe. And is charging my battery now with a Atv charger that charges at 2.5 Volts a hour or charge it with full size charger that is agm compatible. Will either hurt my 925 or should hook the charger to my main batt and let it charge it that way. Thanks.
 

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Go to Odyssey's website for the instructions on recovering a deeply discharged battery...they are very specific and they work. What isolator do you have?
 

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I use this switch to hook batteries together and only turn on when I'm running up rpms so it can charge and I hook second battery to one of the cigarette lighter plugs in dash and plug volt meter in to see when it needs charging or see if it is charging! Had this setup on my 800 for 2 yrs now on my 900 1yr no problems same battery off 800..


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Wow - bummer! Your aux batt and isolator setup is top notch, I'm surprised to hear you are having problems. I don't think your ATV charger is going to get it. If the 925 is down 5V, it will probably not even attempt to charge it. I would go with the full size charger but it might not work either - a lot of battery chargers won't recharge a deeply drained battery - the charger will just assume the batt is toast and just give up. However, you are right about charging through your main to the aux (hooked up parallel) - shouldn't hurt anything. However, might be a good idea to keep an eye on it and if things get hot, disconnect for awhile to let things cool down. Once the 925 gets a few more volts (9 or10), take the main out of the loop and just let the 925 charge solo.

This is one of those instances where a "smart charger" really shines. When a battery gets that deeply discharged, it can really benefit from a computer-controlled recharge. Although a regular charger will generally get you going again, a smart charger will constantly vary the charge voltage and amps and actually recondition the battery as it brings back up to snuff. I use the CTEK Multi US 7002 but there a many other good ones on the market. Here is a pic of the 8 cycles the CTEK goes through to charge a battery (as compared to the 1 cycle a tradition charger uses)

ctek pic.JPG

I think the bigger question is what caused the batt to drop that low? Like you suspect, it may be a bad isolator but it is probably more likely a bad connection somewhere - the little black ground wire coming off the isolator is one common weak point to look at. Back in July, you mentioned that your aux fuse box went dead - what was cause? That might be a good starting point also! You have also mentioned that you have added several 'hot all the time' accessories - the flash light and charger in your glove box comes to mind. Do any of them draw power from the aux batt? Another common battery-killer is the memory wire to radios (to maintain the clock and station settings). (...and, of course, an all night kegger with radio going will do it too!)

Easy way to test the isolator is fully charge your main, then start the machine. The stator should re-top off the main in less than a minute or two. Put a meter on your aux and watch for a jump in the voltage as the isolator closes - your voltage should jump up to around 14V because at that point, your meter will be measuring the output of the stator. If it doesn't make that jump within a few minutes, you may indeed have a bad isolator.
 

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I second the smart charger, I use the Ctek MUS 4.3 set to the *snowflake * setting which is what Odyssey recommends to maintain the 925 series battery. The smart charger does everything automatically so after I park the Ranger I just plug it into the charger and it maintains it until the next time we use it.

The CTEK chargers have a recovery mode that will bring back a severely depleted battery to new condition.
 

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Here is a link to the instructions for the Odyssey charger: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEYUltimizerChargerOwnersManual0099001202-03.pdf.

I can't find anything in there that indicates a severely depleted battery cannot be recharged.

Here is the technical manual for the battery itself: http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM-002_1014.pdf
You can't go wrong going with the recommend 'Odyssey' charger but I choose the CTEK for a couple of reasons: first, the Odyssey charger is not recommended for other (non-AGM) batteries while the CTEK (designed and manufactured in Sweden) can be used on Flooded, Maintenance Free, AGM, Gels, etc. Also, the small size of the CTEK makes it easy to store and tote around. CTEKs are (or at least, were) included with high-end cars (Mercedes, McLaren, even the Corvette C7) as standard equipment - excellent reputation! Scroll down and watch the Jay Leno video here: www.ctek.com . The Odyssey chargers are made by Schumacher and, in years past, I haven't had much luck Schumacher's - I'm sure they are fine now but a little bonfire I had in my garage in the late 80's keeps popping into my head! I chose the CTEK 7002 because it would work with all my batteries; Rngr, lawn mower, car, truck, tractor and so far, it hasn't let me down. I am considering upgrading to their 25000 model because of the increased amp availability (25 vs 7 with 7002) but so far, my wallet's objections have overridden my buying impulse! BTW, the CTEK will replace your Battery Tender with the added benefit of topping off a discharged battery as well as maintaining it. Plug it in, turn it on and it safe to leave it for months at a time.

For those of you that may be on the fence about acquiring an Odyssey battery, please read the 2nd link Jim posted - you'll quickly realize why the Odyssey is so popular for SXS's!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info guys.

To to answer some of the questions. The fuse block problems I had a couple months back. Turns out a rat ate my 4 gauge wire in to. My ground wire going to my fuse block. My all the time accessories pull so low of juice they can still operate on the little volts that is left in my odyssey battery. My light will come on still but the light is so dim you can barely tell it's on. Just like the fan will still come on but sounds weak if I just cut it on with the switch.

I think my best bet once I get my battery charged back up is to test the isolator and she if it is letting the bike charge my second battery. And then I will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am thinking about a volt meter gauge now to install somewhere on the bike. Anyone done this. Pros and cons.
 

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I use the CTEK as well. Excellent charger. I added the remote plug in my Ranger's dash. It has indicator lights, red yellow and green, as well as the plug to connect charger. Much easier and I can keep an eye on the state of charge.
 

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I am thinking about a volt meter gauge now to install somewhere on the bike. Anyone done this. Pros and cons.
I think it's a great idea. The only downside I see is taking up dashboard space and the time it takes to make it happen. You'll need to tie it into the ignition circuit so that the display isn't on all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think it's a great idea. The only downside I see is taking up dashboard space and the time it takes to make it happen. You'll need to tie it into the ignition circuit so that the display isn't on all the time.
Yea I was thinking the same thing. Maybe a relay will make it come with a key, I have few still laying around. I was think a unit like this.
RioRand DC 12/24V Waterproof Digital Volt Panel Meter 4.5-30V Blue LED Motorcycle Voltage Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZ7D9M6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cMSrub0TY2T3S

dont know if I want to mount it on the dash or maybe under the seat. In the middle box though. Just lift up the seat to check every now and then.
 

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Many in-dash gauges come pre-equipped to work with the ignition circuit. I put an AutoMeter transmission temperature gauge in my '91 Ford Ranger and it had a line-in for the ignition. See the following wiring instructions for an AutoMeter Voltmeter: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1238.pdf.

(There is no way I would pay $90+ for an AutoMeter gauge for my Polaris Ranger. I'm simply using the AutoMeter guage as an example.)

Update: Thinking a bit more on this I'm inclined to wire a gauge (like the one Jay posted) directly into the ignition circuit without any relay. The gauge doesn't draw much power and you care most about the voltage on a secondary battery when the engine is running (at least I do). Plus, to see the current voltage with the engine off you just turn the ignition on without starting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Being I have a fuse block that is going directly to my second battery I could just hook it directly to one of spots could I. Or would that not work. Just a quick thought.
 

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Unless the fuse block is only active when the ignition is on then that wouldn't work. Well, it would work if the fuse block was wired directly to the secondary battery, but the voltmeter would be on all the time. I don't know how long a 5-20 ma draw would take to deplete your battery but I wouldn't do it.
 

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I am thinking about a volt meter gauge now to install somewhere on the bike. Anyone done this. Pros and cons.
Funny you should mention this. I just ordered this; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CK3Z1HW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to do just what you mentioned. My plan is to mount the gauge in the dash of my RZR just to the left of the steering wheel and the switch right next to it. The switch is a (momentary on) off (momentary on). Top leg of the switch will go to my main and bottom leg to my aux. The center lug will be the gauge. Despite the picture, the gauge itself is an unobtrusive 1 1/2" x 1". When the bike is off, pressing the switch up should give me the volts remaining on my main, pressing it down will indicate volts on my aux. (Releasing the switch will return it to the 'off' position so the only time it will actually draw any current is when I press it up or down.) When the motor is running, pressing to switch up should always indicate 14+ volts, an indication that the stator is outputting correctly. Pressing it down will either indicate 14+ volts indicating that the isolator is closed and the aux is receiving charge from the stator (via the main) or will indicate something less than 14+ volts indicating that the isolator is open and the main is receiving the full charge of the stator.

I choose the toggle type switch rather than a Contura style because switch positions on the RZR are at a premium - I only have two spaces left. There are Contura switches available that will do the same thing.

The main reason for this project is that the main and aux batteries are both under the drivers seat which has to be removed and it is a real PITA to get to them. ...then I have to remember where the heck I left my meter... :( Now I can walk by the machine and in less than 2 seconds, know what the state of both my batteries are and not have to worry about a parasitic draw that a fancier gauge would have.

Other than a couple of holes in my dash, no cons!
 

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This is the volt meter I mounted in the dash I tied it into factory cig plug it comes on with key. The other cig plug is to second battery with a plug in volt and temp gauge in Celsius only one I could find. I just unplug a little to turn off.


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