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Discussion Starter #1
I just completed a full maintenance routine on my Ranger. All new fluids everywhere, greased everything, and pulled the secondary clutch and brake cleanered and brillowed both the primary and secondary (I didn't pull the primary). Got it out for a test ride and after a bit I noticed the take off felt lacking a little but thought it was in my head, then just shortly after that I couldn't exceed 30mph, the motor would just wind up and nothing would happen. So I limped back to the garage and pulled the clutch\belt cover and the thing is loaded with very black oil (guessing it mixed with the belt dust when it was spinning). Did I just blow a seal? How hard is that seal to replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is a bummer but there is a fix for a leaky crank seal without splitting the case.......... https://www.warrantykillerperformance.com/products/wkp-polaris-900-1000-crank-seal-upgrade-kit#questions-&-answers
Yeah, I have been looking into it, the hard part is pulling the old seal without ****ing up the crank.

A buddy of mine has access to the clutch puller for this thing, we are going to pull the primary this weekend and verify that is where the oil is coming from.
 

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I hate it when doing a normal task turns into a major PIA affair. My last instance was putting on new tires on the Xterra and couple miles down the road the front wheel bearings on one side go making a horrible noise on the nearly new brakes. One expensive weekend
 

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In the past I have removed seals from housings with protruding shafts such as a pinion seal on an automotive differential or the front crankshaft seal on a Dodge 318 V-8 without disassembling anything but was was necessary to get to the outside of the seal. Once the seal was exposed I used a 3/32" drill bit to carefully drill a hole in the outer metal portion of the seal, going slow and using caution not to go any deeper than just to puncture the metal portion of the seal. I then installed a drywall screw (any sheet metal screw should work) through the hole in the end of my body dent puller type slide hammer, screwed it into the hole I drilled in the seal just enough to get a good grip and attached it to the slide hammer shaft and used the slide hammer carefully to pull the seal out.

I don't know whether this procedure would work on a Polaris engine but if you can see the seal after removing the clutch I would think it would work fine.

Slide Ham 2.jpg


Slide Ham 1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just to update you boys, I got the old seal pulled. Took probably 5 hours to get that old seal out, and I have a new seal in and it seems to be holding just fine. I put a little RTV around the outer edge of the new seal, since it doesn't have a lip like the old seal did. Motor seems to be running fine, but it is hard to start at random. Just now it started just fine, no problem at all. One time that ****** just didn't want to start at all and I had to hit it with a spray of starting fluid. Sometime it will start them immediately sputter out on the first try. Motor compreession is around 162-164 on both cylinders. I drained the gas, added new gas, and put a little HEAT in the tank for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As a note, I think I have gotten rid of the rough start issue by reseting the computer (disconnecting the battery cable). I believe it was caused by doing a removal and thorough cleaning of the throttle body, which if it works anything like a car it can throw off the computer calibration of the TB. After the computer reset it has been running great. Seal has held so far for a 4 mile or so ride just to test it out. Havn't tried going to far from home yet, just in case.
 
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