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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, On my 99 Ranger 6x6 my fuel pump change out was successful I rode for 1 hour with no fuel problems so the pump was the problem for the engine dying after 25 min trip and would start back up and run after cooling.

Now I have found another problem. As I rode for the one hour on occasion i would hear gears clanging/deep gringing with knock bumping sound from what sounded like the the front diff or left front drive line or hub. The more I rode the more often it would happen, sounded like a handful of large steel balls in a washing machine. I got it put back in the carport and noticed oil on the left hub. It was not coming from the fill hole but looks like around the plastic end cap.
i noticed the 3 screws were a little loose snug but not tight, so I tightened the screws a little, not braking off tight, but hopefully enough to seal off the leak if in fact that is where it's coming from.

Any suggestions on what and how to check it out? I just changed the fluids 3 hours ago using polaris fluids for the hubs and front diff. I wonder if the hub lost enough oil to cause the noise? Should I fill it up to the point of overflow and try it again? I did not realize the front drive shaft turns at all times the machine is moving. So that means the diff is turning and the front drive lines to the wheels. That leaves a lot to check and troubleshoot. I don't KIMG0357.JPG KIMG0358.JPG know where to start. I am going to fill the hub up to the point of overflow and hope that will stop the noise (I know but I can hope).
 

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The O ring that is on the cap, and seals against the hub/cap is shot.
More times than not, the area where the O ring seals is heavily rusted.

There are 3 tapered roller bearings/races inside, running low on oil is not good.
When filling the hub with oil, the plug needs to be at 10 or 2 O’clock, you need some air space.

You also have a seal on the inside of the strut housing where the axle goes in, check and see if oil is leaking out the backside.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a hard time pulling the hub off feels almost a vacuum against it. Oil looks really dark for 3 hours on it. The bottom had more than the top and all way back to brake rotor. I can't see oil anywhere but the front and what's in the pics. Magnet on drain does not appear to have metal and neither does the oil but I stuck magnet in the oil and looks like there may be some on the end. If it has metal it's almost powder but looks like I see flickering in the sunshine in a place or two. Do what's next? Do I take the key out and pull the bearing? Or rinse the hub with oil, drain and refill? O ring is not flat but I can pull it up so it has slack, so replace? There are cracks where the screws hold the hub cover on, only one goes all the way across. There was to much noise for no damage but. It may survive after no more metal that was in the oil than was. Next step? Phone messing up send other pics in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found on the web of course that the front hubs are to be filled @ 4 or 8 o'clock until it starts to trickle out. now get this, 2.5 ounces. Man when I changed the fluids 3 hours ago I filled it up. Wonder if that may have been what was wrong? Nah, no way with my luck. I guess that's why the fluid started leaking it had nowhere to go but out.
I am having all kinds of problems getting pics off my cell phone. They don't show any damage that is not already shown on the cover pics. Just pics of the O ring and dark oil that I drained out. The bearing appears to be ok by visual inspection I have a pic of it also.

I figure the problems lies on farther back inside the hub where the clutches and other bearings are located. Don't know for certain that it's not the diff. I wonder if I could use RTV black or oil proof sealer on the cover and put it back together with the proper amount of fluid and see if it stills does it? I gotta drain the right side and then add the 2.5 ounces to it. What you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Toxic, I forgot to add that the hub was not out of oil, most likely it has 2 + oz after losing what was lost. I will measure the amount I drained out and post the results. KIMG0359.JPG KIMG0360.JPG KIMG0362.JPG
 

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Wilber,

The cracked hub cover tabs will be fine, ideally we would like them to not be cracked, but they will work.
The Torx head screws do not have to be tight, they just need to be snug.
And if you have some 242/243 Blue Loctite that will help retain the screws, this will require the least amount of pressure to tighten them up.

At the moment I can’t argue your information on the clocking position to fill the Hubs with oil for your Ranger.
But I recently rebuilt a complete front end on a 400 Sportsman, basically the same as your Ranger. And I filled them at the 10 or 2 O’clock position.
You mention 4 and 8, I doubt that will be enough oil in the Hubs.

Also, notice all the rust on the O ring sealing area of your hubs, this is contributing to your leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Toxic, I will add the oil back as YOU instructed, If it needs 2.5 oz's of fluid it will not matter if its 10 or 2. I would think it's better as you said it needs air. And believe me it will hold more than 2.5 oz's. It will be easier at 10 or 2, I feel sure the reason for 4 or 8 is to prevent numbskulls like myself from overfilling it which is impossible at 4 or 8. But being I will measure in the 2.5 oz's the 10 or 2 will be perfect, just as you said.

Any ideas on the next step? With the noise it made at the last 100 ft of moving I think there may be some serious damage. Do I tear into it or add 2.5 oz's after flushing and try it again? The latter scares me, I don't won't, need or can afford any more damage if it is indeed damaged. Thanks for your help, first thing out of my Grandboys mouth yesterday when they they returned from their weekend visit at their Dad's was, no not HI PA-PA, it was did you get the ranger fixed and after replying no, I still did not get the hi. Again thanks for helping me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I measured the oil I caught from the hub drain on the 99 ranger, it was just a fraction over 2 oz's. Book calls for 2.5 oz's . Would you think that 1/2 oz low of fluid would/could cause the grinding/pop/knock/tare/clang sound? it's not continuous but got pretty darn close the last 100 yards to the carport. before it would pop/nock/clang real quick then disappear, maybe go 5 min, or 15 ,or 3 before repeating. I tried it in 6 wheel drive it had no bearing on the noise, i don't recall it making the noise while in AWD but due to lack of loose soil or mud I did not keep it in AWD for long.

So guys where do I go from here? Can I disconnect the drivers side front drive to the wheel? If so and the problem disappears then it is in the left front hub assembly. If it continues it could be anything dealing with the front drive components.
I am ready to do whatever you guys think I should do. Other than carry it to a shop, I can barley afford a loaf of bread I sure can't afford a mechanic to fix it.
If i could I would carry it to Toxic, I know it would be done right as i could afford but safe that's the most important thing, these two Grandboys safety. It's only 5 hours one way to Where Toxic is.
 

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HA! We ALL wish we carry our buggys to Toxic-21 Bar & Grill and SXS Repair Shop!! :D:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep, But I am special, I was born in Forrest City Arkansa. Y'all are outsiders looking in. After Bear Bryant I'm the most special thing born there, WJC is number 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Put the hubcap back with some orange RTV I had lying around in the shed Wed. P.M. It's about as old as I am, it was almost dried had to cut the tube in the center to get to the good stuff hope the orange is suitable for oil contact. Going to add the oil back this PM and see what rips, grinds and breaks. May regret doing so but can't just look at it and do nothing, can't afford to take it to someone that can troubleshoot it ect. I will post my joys or regrets later on this PM. Wish me luck.

Well partial success, i place the fill/drain hole @ 2:00 and it held a little over 3 oz's. but i had a little leak around one of the screws, apparently I did not get enough RTV in that area. The other 2 screws were fine. i tighten down a little more and slowed it some but still leaking, tightened it about as hard and tight as it would go and the leak had improved to the point of a little on the finger after sitting for 5-10 min. So i decided it was good enough to ride the boys for a few minutes and check on my noise.

To start with i could ride 150-200ft then it would raise he77 for a couple of seconds but progressively got better and i kept riding although the oil was leaking worse due to centrifugal force it had wet the hub. So i wanted to continue to see if it would do it again but was afraid I might lose enough oil to cause damage or maybe more damage. I had ridden for 15 min. and about 3/4 mile on my place without it making a sound, man I wanted to go more to see what if it would do it again.
But finally my maturity kick in and told me don't push it, put it back under the carport and redo the RTV or maybe check on pricing for a O ring and hubcap. I think It will be fine if I can get it completely sealed up and save that paypal money in case there is a more expensive issue to address.

So Fri. I will drain and waste what's left in the hub and rework the hub with RTV (orange I had black but can't find it) give it until Sun PM before filling, that should give it plenty of time to set. on this run i gave it about 20 hours to set maybe the additional time will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I found the black RTV but it does not state for contact with oil. In the old days we used orange permatex on every gasket on a engine and had no problems. I thought the black was for oil contact and orange was water and other nowadays. Rekon it will matter? I hate to let the orange continue to set and throw it away if it will work, the black is unopened but prolly (that's southern for probably) 12-15 years old, age may be reason it doesn't specify oil contact. What you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I talked my boss into letting me spend $9 at AZ for the oil resistant RTV. I feel more comfortable using one that can handle oil. So i got the hubcap back on with sealer around the holes and all over the aewa that contacts the metal hub. Just hope I have applied enough may go run a bead on the seam where the hubcap and hub meet for insurance. I may have the inside seal leaking on the right front wheel, i have been working on the left front. i cleaned all the oils of both wheels so to tell if i have more leaks. Will post the results after riding the Grandboys Sun PM when they return home from their weekend visit with their Dad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello all, I bought a new O ring and put it on yesterday. I could not tell the difference between the new and old if the old did not have oil on it. But anyway the new O ring is in and I plastered oil resistant RTV all around the cap-hub joint and all over the ears and screws. Boy hope i don't have to get in there again, i'll be cussing some idiot for piling all that RTV on there. I followed Toxic directions and had the drain/fill hole at 2:00 o'clock CDT I was able to get almost 3 oz's in there but it may need/hold more after riding for awhile. As of 6:00 PM today I could not find any leaks but it has not been driven due to linkage problems but was moved forward about 3 ft then moved backwards 4-5 ft. Hopefully the hub will be dry in the AM.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello everyone in polaris land, I put the new o ring in and used 1/2 tube of the oil resistant RTV 3-4 days ago filled it with oil and its been sitting in the same spot. Yesterday PM I ran my hand under the hub and got oil on my hand. So the new o ring is allowing oil to get by, I guess I will order the 3 eared hub cover and hope that will do it. I don't recall seeing any type of gasket in the drawings or any sign on the hub. I have some old (15 years) gasket material and the RTV sealant.

My question is which do I use if any, both? I know if it leaks now it will surely leak with nothing on it. What you guys think would be the best way to stop this leak? The gasket material is about 1/8" thick maybe more.
 

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Hello everyone in polaris land, I put the new o ring in and used 1/2 tube of the oil resistant RTV 3-4 days ago filled it with oil and its been sitting in the same spot. Yesterday PM I ran my hand under the hub and got oil on my hand. So the new o ring is allowing oil to get by, I guess I will order the 3 eared hub cover and hope that will do it. I don't recall seeing any type of gasket in the drawings or any sign on the hub. I have some old (15 years) gasket material and the RTV sealant.

My question is which do I use if any, both? I know if it leaks now it will surely leak with nothing on it. What you guys think would be the best way to stop this leak? The gasket material is about 1/8" thick maybe more.

You don’t need anything, and if you just want to spend money on some new caps go ahead, but not needed.
Do the plastic caps have any other cracks in them besides the ears?

What was the size of the O ring that you installed?
And did you clean the rust/scale from the O ring sealing surface, that I mention in the last post about this?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Toxic, No sir I don't want to spend what I ain't got. The ears are the only place that I could see any cracks. I carried the old o ring to the dealer and told them the make, model ect. He brought back what appears to be the same thing, only diff. was oil residue on the old one. I put it on and it stretches out to what appears the same amount.
I cleaned it best I could with the nut and key in the way, it looked good and smooth/slick.

Rekon I need to remove the nut and key and probably bearing to really get nin there and smooth it really smooth? I was afraid if I took the bearing out then the race would fall out and i would have a mess trying to get everything back in, that's my luck.

I thought the o ring was to keep the oil in and water/trash out. But something is not right, wonder if the new o ring has been in stock so long its lost some of it's properties? I will pick up one off the web if you think it will help. These guys have a lot of new inventory but parts for old machines like mine may have been there for years. Thanks for your help Toxic, I will do whatever you suggest.
 

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Toxic, No sir I don't want to spend what I ain't got. The ears are the only place that I could see any cracks. I carried the old o ring to the dealer and told them the make, model ect. He brought back what appears to be the same thing, only diff. was oil residue on the old one. I put it on and it stretches out to what appears the same amount.
I cleaned it best I could with the nut and key in the way, it looked good and smooth/slick.

Rekon I need to remove the nut and key and probably bearing to really get nin there and smooth it really smooth? I was afraid if I took the bearing out then the race would fall out and i would have a mess trying to get everything back in, that's my luck.

I thought the o ring was to keep the oil in and water/trash out. But something is not right, wonder if the new o ring has been in stock so long its lost some of it's properties? I will pick up one off the web if you think it will help. These guys have a lot of new inventory but parts for old machines like mine may have been there for years. Thanks for your help Toxic, I will do whatever you suggest.
There is no pressure on the hub cap, the screws just hold it in place, the O ring does the sealing.
So as long as the screws have something to hold on to, your fine.

If you purchased the O ring from the Dealer it should be correct.
And yes, the O ring keeps the oil in and the trash out.

The race will not fall out when you remove the bearing.

You don’t want to remove any metal, just the rust scale.
When you have time try and post a pic of the O ring sealing area of the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
3A9D478F-1595-4968-A00E-4346B0893027.jpeg 9077C9E2-AB55-4AF5-A5DF-601A23EEDE28.jpeg Looks like I will being buying a hub cap after all. I reckon I broke it trying to get it off or after installing it last time, I think it was while getting it off. I removed the key and castle nut to get a better view of the area where the o ring seats. It looks pretty good but I am going to pull the bearing and go back at again with 00 steel wool and see if I can get it a little better. What’s the best way to get the bearing out without damaging it? The washer behind and C nut and in front of the bearing has rough ridges on both sides like it was over tighten but the nut was almost loose enough to turn by hand. Should it be that loose? I will let the hub drain overnight and try for a better pic. Also I have oil on the inside of the rim/wheel collected on the lip. I can’t find where it came from. No sign of a leak anywhere other than the hub and I see no way for the oil to get to the inside of the rim, it has not been moved more than 3 ft since filling with oil and putting the hub on. And that was back and forth while trying to get the tranny/gearbox linkage adjusted. If pics are needed on the strut tower let me know. I can’t see where it came from.
 
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