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So Beav, is it turning over with compression .......or not ?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I feel like it has some without putting the tester to it and sitting 30 miles away at work. I agree it always makes you think spark or fuel. But it also seems like a low oil level kind of shutoff but as I know now these engines don’t have such a sensor. So it lottery ran perfect. I shut it off to check dowel. And now it won’t start. It definitely cranks easy. But I feel like there is something compression.
so after I put the cam lifters spark plugs and injectors on. This is how it acted. It never really idled until I took the exhaust off. So then I vacuumed out the exhaust to make sure nothing was blocking it. And started messing with dowel. Ran really smooth until current event. Even with exhaust back on.
 
Looks like you found the no start cause. Pushrods bent? Valves stuck? Rocker arms frozen?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Well my guess is a collapsed lifter or the entire lobe of the cam fell off. Question is do I replace it or is there a engine process that should prime it and be fine
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
So tapped the dowel, actually measured movement. Got the lifter to prime. Oil bath the entire exhaust and skid plate, put valve cover back on. Let run for 5 minutes and now it won’t start again. So I’m guessing the lifters aren’t staying primed. I have my sons basketball tonight but may try again after. Seems like this is going to be a long process. I hate to take the side cover off again but can’t I get to it from the passenger side if I take it apart again?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Ok I’m guessing by pushing the dowel down now just over 1.5” it inacted some other design where the engine isn’t getting enough oil pressure to start. Lifters are primed. Getting spark and fuel. May need to clean plugs but haven’t done that yet. I am considering removing the exhaust and the engine mount and putting some spin on it with a drill. Besides that I’m at a loss unless I tear it back down and try to get to it from the side or pull the engine. If I do that I’m just going to buy it off them and put a 900 kit in at the same time. Any really good advice on how to proceed.
 
It's up to you on when to quit, but at some point it's going to be worth your while to pull that engine and push the dowel out from the back side.

Once you do that, and maybe polish the bore a little bit before using the Chevy head stud, I don't think you'll have any more trouble with it. I wouldn't even bother with it 900 ho kit, it won't make it worth any more, and 800 have enough trouble with Transmissions as is
 
I started that thread over at sxsnation, I am a moderator there (dieselfume).

I have not tried to remove the oil pump with the engine still in the machine. I think that would be very very difficult. Pulling the engine takes about 1 hour, the only special tools you really need is a primary clutch removal tool, because you need to remove the primary clutch to be able to remove the inner CVT backplate. From there it's very simple, remove the fuel line the few plugins on the electrical harness your exhaust y-pipe and front crossmember and there's a few more bolts and it comes out. Much easier and cleaner to work on the bench out in the open.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I believe you. I don’t have the tool so I’m going to try it. I pulled the tank and was able to replace the cam with engine in the frame so it’s worth a try. If behind the oil pump is the only way to get to the dowel.
 
That's the way I understand it, water pump I think needs to come off, then I think you can get at the oil pump. Best of luck,
 
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