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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

We bought our Ranger this year for our RV Park, but now that it's winter time, it's time to play with it. We have a cool place to ride out in Iowa called MIOBI (Make It Or Break It), and during the winter we live in East TN. So, Windrock is where we play most of the time during the winter. The first weekend at MIOBI I broke the Polaris flip-up glass windshield, so a new one is arriving Monday from Babbitt's. That was an expensive first trip out...lol.

I haven't wheeled a Ranger since my first UTV, which was a 2007 Polaris Ranger 700...wow, what a difference Polaris has made over the years! Nevertheless, we went to Windrock this past weekend, and here's a short list of the upgrades I'm planning for it:

1) Factory UTV Full Skid Plates with Rock Sliders (Installed this past week)
2) Outkast Fabworx 3" Full Lift & Arched Arms (Arrived this week)
3) STI 15x7" 4+3 HD4's (15.5lbs)
4) 30x9.5x15" BFG All Terrain TA KO2 Tires (38.8lbs) (Tires/Wheels are mounted and balanced)
5) ECU Re-Flash (Need help deciding which one to go with)
6) Polaris 6K Winch (Ordered, but hasn't arrived)
7) Clutch Kit (I've run DDP and Bikeman in the past, but am open to suggestions)

We bought the Ranger with the full Polaris Cab with power windows, heater, and hydraulic dump bed. It's like a mini jeep, and my little 3 year old Zach loves it! I like to rock crawl the hardest trails I can find, so I'm sure I'll break a bunch of other stuff that will need beefing up in the near future...most likely axles...I've run rhinos and gorilla's in the past, but any help would be greatly appreciated. :)

Here's my little guy on his Polaris 50...gotta train him up early. They start racing these quads in Iowa at 4 years old...crazy!
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Chris
 

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Welcome to the Form!:biggrin:
 

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Welcome to PRC Forum. Check out the Dura Clutch, really good results from mine and a great warrantee.
 

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Nice and welcome to PRC!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I'll get some pics posted soon. I've only run team clutch setups in the past, so I'll have to do some research on the duraclutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I snapped a quick pic of the new tire/wheel combo:
Tire Alloy wheel Rim Automotive tire Wheel

Chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I run my shocks preloaded as much as they can be in stock form because of the weight of the full cab. When installing the outlast 3" lift a-arms, did anyone compare how much lift is provided by the various shock positions and preload options?

Chris
 

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Chris,
If you adjust shocks all the way up , you will gain about an inch in ground clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chris,
If you adjust shocks all the way up , you will gain about an inch in ground clearance.
I just was wondering how it affected the outkast lift/a-arms not the stock setup.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'd have to disagree...was just curious if anyone had taken the time to see the differences. I'll figure it out when I get it installed...not a big deal. I agree that adjusting the shock preload has the same affect, but the degree to which it affects the height is based on the motion ratio. So, if lifts have different upper and lower mounting locations, the degree to which the preload alters height will be different between the lifts.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate you doing that. I'm just getting started on your buildup thread...extremely impressive by the way. We are essentially saying the same thing, and I was just curious if anyone made any measurements of ride height at say softest preload with outkast arms versus similar preload with stock arms. The same would be nice at max preload, but I'll make sure I do it when I do my install. Now back to reading your thread. :)

Chris
 

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Hey Chris,
The main thing I noticed when I moved my shocks to the outer holes was it took out the body roll ( machine leaning to one side ) when making sharp turns.
After I installed my Backwoods Armor 2-4 inch adjustable lift I noticed it stiffed the handling on the Ranger. I could really tell when out in the snow , the back tires would spin easier when turning. So if you like to fish tail around when playing. I reinstalled the rear torsion bar to the A-Arms because I haul and tow heavy loads. You could leave the rear torsion bar off to help keep the rear wheels on the ground. All depends on your riding style.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks...by moving the front shocks to the outer hole, valving and spring rate increases because the shock is more vertical reducing the motion ratio. The downside is it also reduces wheel travel...how much is what I'm wondering, and I'll measure when I do mine in the next week or so. I heard that Outkast recommends running the front shocks on the outer hole with their lift, so I'd imagine it's mostly to prevent over extension at full droop. But, if not for axle binding prevention, it could be to achieve the proper amount of lift instead.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks to teshreve's thread, he just cost me another $310 for the garage products bushings. :)

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sweet. Thanks!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got the new Garage Products bushings installed in all the rear a-arms tonight. They're tight SOB's to say the least!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I didn't have to sand off the powder coating. I tapped both bushings into place, then tapped the metal sleeves inside them. I tried doing it differently originally, but it doesn't work. Bushings first, then metal sleeve. I haven't done the hubs or the front a-arms yet. I just used WD-40 to lube them up and slide everything in. The one weird thing I'm seeing is that all the bushings and metal sleeves are longer than the metal on the a-arm by roughly an 1/8". I haven't tested for fitment against the tabs on the frame, but we'll see if the bushings are too wide overall.

Chris
 
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