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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Just got done putting a 808cc kit on my 2011 Polaris ranger.

Filled her up with some green fluid fired it up, 204 temp. fan kicked on temps keeped climbing turned it off at 215. climbed to 230. Then let it cool to 170, turned it back on same problem.

Both times my radiator fluid in the fill never went down.

Probably just a thermostat, my question is does this engine have a water pump and how does the fluid move if not?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Went Polaris parts house looked diagram and they do have a pump. I cant tell where it is at?
 

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water pump is on passenger side at bottom. you will see water hose hooked to it.

When you filled it up with antifreeze did you bleed the air out of the cooling system.ranger are bad about trapping air in the system and sometimes hard to get out.that will make it over heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was wondering what that screw was on the head. I know it is full of air the thermostat never took a drink. I will bleed the air out probably my problem. This is why you go to the forums before the shop.
 

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I was wondering what that screw was on the head. I know it is full of air the thermostat never took a drink. I will bleed the air out probably my problem. This is why you go to the forums before the shop.
When you open the PDF above you can right click it and save it to your computer.If you look on the internet you can get all 10 chapters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Where do I find the other 10 chapters.

Bleed it off it is running cooler then before fan kicks on at 204 starts cooling at 206. Instead of starting to cool at 210. I don't know if that is because I was just putting around breaking in the rings.

Thank you.
 

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Where do I find the other 10 chapters.

Bleed it off it is running cooler then before fan kicks on at 204 starts cooling at 206. Instead of starting to cool at 210. I don't know if that is because I was just putting around breaking in the rings.

Thank you.
Those temps are normal:encouragement:

I have them i will try and post them,if not i can e mail them to you..Glad you got it running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Off subject of my title I will start a new thread if more appropriate. How ever I seem to have the attention of some knowledge.
I'm going to spill my "oh it will be fine side".

Alright, broke in my "new top". 4 heat and cool down cycles only due to my lack of knowledge on the bleeding the cooling system. Or else it would of been 3 hot to cold cycles. Went for a ride today a short low rpm, everything was going good til I got to a hill. Then I once again had no power, in high gear put it in low and crawled up. Figured maybe the TPS didn't get put back right. Continued on power got less and less. Turned it around early. On the way back no power full throttle, NOTHING. Disconnected the TMAP still nothing. Almost to the truck, Back fired 3 times then died. It died a couple times through out the ride, only when idling. Got towed to the truck.

When I was putting my top end back together, I cleaned my head had it resurfaced. Put the valves back in and leak tested the valves with gas. Both of my Exhausted vales leaked a little and so did one of my intakes. Now I have spilled my "oh it will be fine side".

Can I lose a lot of compression out of my valves because it is running like bad piston rings.
 

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It sounds more like a bad wire at the IAC plug,the 2011 and up had problems with the IAC harness. And yes you should have lapped the valves if you seen them leaking.Buy you books,send you to school and this is what we get,SHAME SHAME


I would check your compression first then the wire.
I am sorry,I got busy and forgot about your 10 chapters.I will see what i can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What is the IAC plug??? I have always had problems with the T-Bap Because this, that was on the bottom of my throttle body. Sensor got replaced. This is why I did the top end to start with. I had a lot of dirt through out my intake and valves. Wood Hardwood Floor Flooring Wood stain
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Should I go back and compression test this again before going with the valves. My first test was 45psi on one and 60 psi on the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the manual. So your IAC(Intake air control) is the sensor above TPS. PS at first the problem seemed electrical.
 

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I think it should be around 150psi when engine is hot.It should run with 100psi.When you did your test you did have both plugs out and gas peddle to the floor?
Do a leak down test and see what you come up with.
You are suppose to check compression with engine hot but i know yours dont run so that is out.But like i said it should run @100PSI
 
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