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There is a difference in what we each wrote and believe, it seems. I don't believe Amsoil will recommend a product that won't perform as well as the Polaris recommended product. The weight of the product may be slightly different than the ADVERTISED weight of the OEM's product, but chemical compatibility and performance will be the same or better, just as the test you sighted demonstrates.
Ahhh, still sticking to the typical Amsoil line of BS, lol.
You said IF IT MEETS SPECIFICATION.
It didn't meet specification on the top number or the bottom. Neither.
I noticed you put the ADVERTISED in caps to imply that the Polaris oil is not actually 50 but just advertised as 50.
Typical Amsoil dealer BS.

The test DID NOT demonstrate that the Amsoil was compatible or that performance was the same or better. In fact it clearly indicates that the Amsoil didn't meet the 50 specification while it shows that the PS-4 clearly is a 50 oil.
You need to take the Amsoil glasses off and really look at that graph.
 

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Ahhh, still sticking to the typical Amsoil line of BS, lol.
You said IF IT MEETS SPECIFICATION.
It didn't meet specification on the top number or the bottom. Neither.
I noticed you put the ADVERTISED in caps to imply that the Polaris oil is not actually 50 but just advertised as 50.
Typical Amsoil dealer BS.

The test DID NOT demonstrate that the Amsoil was compatible or that performance was the same or better. In fact it clearly indicates that the Amsoil didn't meet the 50 specification while it shows that the PS-4 clearly is a 50 oil.
You need to take the Amsoil glasses off and really look at that graph.
Have always used Polaris products, seems to be good stuff.
 

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I prefer brunettes with a slim figure maybe you like blonds that are voluptuous. Which is better? Who is to say other than which is better for the individual.
Well, since you ask...............I prefer mine 'jungley' and no matter how disgusting I find Libtards, she must nurture them just like they were human.........

130750
 

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I run tractor hydraulic fluid (JD20C) in both front and rear of mine. I am well out of warranty so not worried about that. No problems what so ever.
 

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While revisiting this thread I noted that in post, #13, it was mentioned that Hilliard hadn't changed their specifications much in may years. I'm not disputing that, but I wanted to mention that my Dad has a 1997 Polaris Sportsman 400 (2 stroke) which uses a Hilliard clutch in the other hubs to engage the front wheels. The Haynes Service manual he has says to use Automatic Transmission fluid in the hubs. Maybe it's apples and oranges, but it seems to me that Hilliard clutches all work pretty much the same and likely have the same lube requirements. The factor that really makes a difference, IMHO, is that the Sportsman doesn't have a ring and pinion gear set which needs a high pressure gear lube. The front drive on that unit is chain drive to a bearing housing which drives CV axles with the Hilliard clutch separate in the outer hubs.
There may be exceptions, but every automatic transmission in a car/truck I've ever seen has an overrunning clutch which is in effect a Hilliard clutch without the brand name (who knows, auto manufacturers may pay a royalty to Hilliard for use of their design) and they live in ATF. Of course auto transmissions also have gears, usually helical gears which also require a gear type lube and they seldom fail running in ATF. Perhaps the design difference between the Polaris front diff gears (bevel gears) as opposed to helical make the difference in lube requirements. It would be nice if some lubrication engineer would educate me on the differences and why specific lubes are required in similar applications.
 

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RangeRider, should use J20D in the front. Pyro, my road grader tranny says to run 10wt motor oil, it's a power shift type, gears are always meshed and shifting is done with wet clutch packs, it also states in extreme cold to run ATF and that is what it had when I bought it from the county, used to plow snow and I never changed it back and ran it for several years. I wouldn't have any problems running atf but would have to look at the temperatures I run in, Arizona I might have to use something different. What I'm amazed at is the number of people I see on other sites that run gear lube and I think that's just stupid.
 

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Waaay stupid .......

"What I'm amazed at is the number of people I see on other sites that run gear lube and I think that's just stupid. "
 
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What I'm amazed at is the number of people I see on other sites that run gear lube and I think that's just stupid.
I don't know whether Ranger front differentials ahve any yellow metal in them (brass, bronze) but it's my understanding that some hypoid gear oils contain additives that will harm those metals.
 

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On my previous UTV, an 2008 Arctic Cat Prowler 650, I used 80w-90 gear oil in the rear case. The manual told me to do so. Maybe because it was locked with no "turf" ?
 
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