You can wire them however you want.. Lots of people Jump one to ground and the other to constant positive.. That way you have a takeoff for any scenario..

 

So am I correct in saying that the 3 terminals are in no way connected internally in the block?? So if I wanted I could make all 3 "hot" or all 3 "ground"???

 

Going out on a limb here, so someone correct me if I am wrong. I assume the power strip is the same on the 900s as it is on the 800s. If so, one terminal will be hot only when the key is on, one will be ground (the center one on the 800) and the remaining one is hot all the time. If that is the case with the 900s also, you definitely DON'T want to jumper any of them together. You can (and many do) connect a fuse block to either, or both, of the hot ones - depending on if you want the connected accessory to be operable all the time or only when the key is on.

 

I have checked and only have the "key on" power at the terminal that is currently wired from the factory. The other two read nothing.....

 

Well then, like Travis said, you got options!! Seems odd that they would change the design in that way - but hey, it is what it is I like the way it was set up before - really kind of handy. But if you are adding a lot of hot-only-when-keyed accessories, might be handy to go ahead and jumper two of them together. Still could add a fuse block just keep all your additional fuses in the same neighborhood...

 

Mine tested exactly like yours.. One hot with the key on.. The other 2 dead..

I chose to make one ground when I wired the winch.. So far I have left the third one dark as I haven't needed a "always on" connection yet.

 

I essentially made mine to be like the old ones are. I brought a lead up from the battery so that I have an 'always hot' terminal along with having the 'keyed hot.' I use the third one as a ground (if memory serves, I had to actually 'ground' it first though).

 

The Polaris radio kit came with an 8 gauge ground and battery lead that you are instructed to run to the accessory block. The instructions also stated that those same leads would also come with the polaris winch and cab heater.fyi

 

One of my polaris accessories came with a power lead from the battery to the dead terminal on the power block. Now there is a switch-on hot, always hot (from the battery) and a ground. I think my radio came with the power lead- however you can connect the radio to either the switch-on hot or always hot terminal. I believe the polaris winch also my have the power lead from the battery included. I run my extra lights from the constant hot. Plan a winch in the future to also run from the always hot terminal. Anything run from the always hot will need to have a fuse in the line or connect it to separate fuse box.

 

I will have to post pics of my underhood, between the stereo and amplified antenna, Boss plow wiring-relays-solenoids, heated seat wiring,and HID wiring and ballast it is cramped!

 

Thanks guys, I went ahead and wired from the key on hot and alsp ran a jumper from one to the next. so now I have 2 key on hot terminals and I wired one to ground. No fuses blown and all the lights work!!! I had to run most switches to a key on hot cause kids like to push buttons when youre not lookin :? My set up is almost done and I cant wait to get all the pics up on here!!! Thanks again for the input!

 

Does anyone know if the accessory power bar is fuse protected?

 

I thought it was a 30amp? I cant remember. But it powers my winch selinoid and amp currently

 

The key on post is fused at 20 amp from factory. My dealer fused mine to 30 amp after installing heater, winch, and wipers.

 

Thanks for the replies to my question. I was uncertain if that fuse was just for the 12V outlets or also the accessory bar.

I bought a used '12 with some accessories already installed. I have 2 auxiliary lights, a moderate stereo, winch solenoid, and turn signals on the bar. On inspection, it has just a 20 amp fuse in the accessory slot. I am surprised that I have not blown it already.

 

any one have a picture of this?? Thanks, Sam

 

can you hook a fuse block to the under the hood so you could keep up with what wires are where or would it be better to run a fuse block off the battery. looking at the blue sea systems for lights and other accessories. I know my Polaris dealer will hook everything to the power strip instead of using a fuse block.

 

If the constant hot post on your power strip has been wired you can attach the feed to your fuse block from it. If not you will need to run power to that post or run a lead from the battery to your fuse block. Either method is fine

 

You say 1 hot 2 not, did you ground check the other 2?

Sorry, didn't see all pages, never mind.

 

my 2014 800 midsize has one hot all the time, one hot with the key on and one ground.

 

I ran 6 gauge jumper cable wire up to the strip and ran a fuse box off of that so I don't run out of capacity later.
Now I have the key switched one plus a constant on and a ground right there.

 

So do you have one side of you fuse box that is hot all the Time and another side that is only on with the key.

 

so for the "electricity" challanged, the way it comes from the factory, i dont have a pos and neg on the terminal, without running something else. am i understanding that correctly? thanks in advance, sorry for basic question..

 

Yes, that is correct Scott. Polaris sells a wire kit for about $25 that has a red and black cable cut to the correct length to bring the power from the
battery to the posts or some accessories include the cables. I think I got a set with my radio and winch.

 

My red and black from the battery is hooked to the winch contactor. Can I run a hot wire off of that to the oem terminal block which is close to it or will that cause harm to the contactor. It would be the same as running the main red and black from the battery to the terminal block and then to the contactor right?

 

Yep, it is the same Glenn.

 

Iam having problems with my 2014 800 one of the posts on the power strip is dead it runs the winch and power steering i know the other (hot) post has a fuse under the hood but not for the bottom post any sugestions?

 

Where is the heavy red wire attached at in the battery compatment ? My constant hot (the heavy red wire) has no fuse.

 

there is no heavy wire there is a two small red wires that power the powerstrip under the hood its them two small red wires that i have the problem with i have it on the trailer and i am going to the dealer i gave up but thanks anyways the dealer told me they stopped wiring the winch to that strip and run it to the battery now

 

You're right - I just looked at the parts fiche for the '14s - the wiring is significantly different than my '11. BTW - the dealer should have NEVER wired the heavy power cables from the winch contactor to that terminal block - should have gone directly to the battery to begin with. It's ok to wire the smaller winch switch wires (14/16ga) to the terminal strip. The only separate fuse (not in the fuse block) that I could see is at the end of the EPS harness. Hope you get it straightened out!

 

You're right - I just looked at the parts fiche for the '14s - the wiring is significantly different than my '11. BTW - the dealer should have NEVER wired the heavy power cables from the winch contactor to that terminal block - should have gone directly to the battery to begin with. It's ok to wire the smaller winch switch wires (14/16ga) to the terminal strip. The only separate fuse (not in the fuse block) that I could see is at the end of the EPS harness. Hope you get it straightened out!

I have a 2011, midsize. I'm in the process of putting a winch on. If I run the power cable from the battery, where do you run it, I have'nt look to see where the factory runs the wire to the front of machine. Thanks