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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2011 mid 500 that is used only for hunting , but property has some big hills. Recently , it started make a noise like brakes squealing , as you let off the throttle. its also goes away when you apply throttle. And it appeared that I was getting some engine braking coming down the hills that I was not accustomed too. I'm sure its not the brakes, so its either clutch noise or belt noise. I have been advised its probably a clutch bearing, and we plan to take cover off and blow everything out first to make sure. some on here have stated their belts make that noise since new , mine has 1600 miles , and never made it before.
whats your thoughts?
also, anyone got a link for a good video to replace this bearing if needed?
I understand we would need a clutch removal tool, any recommendations on where to buy?

thanks in advance
 

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I would start with the simple things like blowing out the clutches with air and cleaning them up a bit first, then maybe look at changing to a new belt (wash in soap first and dry, to get all the factory oils off it) and then clean the clutches with a scotch bright pad and alcohol or brake cleaner.

I believe the clutch removal tool for your machine is pcp-1 from EPI, atleast that's the one I have.


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I have a 2011 mid 500 that is used only for hunting , but property has some big hills. Recently , it started make a noise like brakes squealing , as you let off the throttle. its also goes away when you apply throttle. And it appeared that I was getting some engine braking coming down the hills that I was not accustomed too. I'm sure its not the brakes, so its either clutch noise or belt noise. I have been advised its probably a clutch bearing, and we plan to take cover off and blow everything out first to make sure. some on here have stated their belts make that noise since new , mine has 1600 miles , and never made it before.
whats your thoughts?
also, anyone got a link for a good video to replace this bearing if needed?
I understand we would need a clutch removal tool, any recommendations on where to buy?

thanks in advance
At
what speed?
 

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How often would you say you service your clutch? Clutches on these machines need to be inspected/blown out every 3-6 months depending on riding and environmental conditions.
 

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I have a 2011 mid 500 that is used only for hunting , but property has some big hills. Recently , it started make a noise like brakes squealing , as you let off the throttle. its also goes away when you apply throttle. And it appeared that I was getting some engine braking coming down the hills that I was not accustomed too. I'm sure its not the brakes, so its either clutch noise or belt noise. I have been advised its probably a clutch bearing, and we plan to take cover off and blow everything out first to make sure. some on here have stated their belts make that noise since new , mine has 1600 miles , and never made it before.
whats your thoughts?
also, anyone got a link for a good video to replace this bearing if needed?
I understand we would need a clutch removal tool, any recommendations on where to buy?

thanks in advance
I had a similar problem when I picked up my used 2015 570. I put up a post and video up on here a month ago.
Clean out your clutches..check your belt and make sure your clutch is setup right. Mine was loose..had to take it apart and reset it..noise gone.
 

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I had a similar problem when I picked up my used 2015 570. I put up a post and video up on here a month ago.
Clean out your clutches..check your belt and make sure your clutch is setup right. Mine was loose..had to take it apart and reset it..noise gone.
What was "loose" in your clutch ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
polaris cover hole.jpg
Probably is bearing, does it do it idle?
does not make sound at idle


since this ranger is located on a farm that is 400 miles away, sometimes it takes a while to gather info. Dannie pulled the cover off today.
1- there is not even any belt dust in the case. exceptionally clean.
2- the primary clutch has no wiggle in it when grabbed and shaken.
3- belt appeared tight
4- BUT, the belt rubbed a hole in top of cover.
So, what the heck?


id love to have the engine break going down hills but 1200 for a duraclutch is little big for me to swallow. and not sure they even make one for a 500. I did not see it on site.

so whats the opinion of what has caused this and what needs to be replaced?

I had a message to check the plastic buttons in the secondary?
should I just replace buttons or buy a kit?
 

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rackmaster is this the first time you guys have opened up the clutch box? I find it really hard to believe that in 1600 miles you have zero belt dust. The belt likely rubbed a hole in the clutch cover for one of two reasons...(1) the belt has stretched significantly over the years which is correctable by simply replacing it or (2) the engine isolator/motor mounts have deteriorated, causing the engine output shaft and primary clutch to shift closer to the transmission input shaft and secondary clutch (most noticeable under mild to moderate load). This is a known issue on the Sportsman 400s and 500s from that time period. The motor mounts are a little expensive but fairly straight forward to replace. With regards to the clutches themselves, with 1600 miles on them if they haven't been pulled off the machine and completely disassembled/cleaned then it's definitely time to do it. Some folks think that if they take extra special care of these machines that typical maintenance becomes unnecessary, that it not at all the case. These clutches MUST be cleaned up and inspected regularly or you may end up having to replace the whole clutch. Once you get the clutches out of the machine get a hold of a service manual for your make and model and go through the specifications listing for each clutch part. If anything is out of spec, replace it but I wouldn't go crazy and replace everything as certain parts last much longer than others. Just replace what's necessary and ride on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
rackmaster is this the first time you guys have opened up the clutch box? I find it really hard to believe that in 1600 miles you have zero belt dust. The belt likely rubbed a hole in the clutch cover for one of two reasons...(1) the belt has stretched significantly over the years which is correctable by simply replacing it or (2) the engine isolator/motor mounts have deteriorated, causing the engine output shaft and primary clutch to shift closer to the transmission input shaft and secondary clutch (most noticeable under mild to moderate load). This is a known issue on the Sportsman 400s and 500s from that time period. The motor mounts are a little expensive but fairly straight forward to replace. With regards to the clutches themselves, with 1600 miles on them if they haven't been pulled off the machine and completely disassembled/cleaned then it's definitely time to do it. Some folks think that if they take extra special care of these machines that typical maintenance becomes unnecessary, that it not at all the case. These clutches MUST be cleaned up and inspected regularly or you may end up having to replace the whole clutch. Once you get the clutches out of the machine get a hold of a service manual for your make and model and go through the specifications listing for each clutch part. If anything is out of spec, replace it but I wouldn't go crazy and replace everything as certain parts last much longer than others. Just replace what's necessary and ride on.
Dannie said he could wipe his hand in the box and not have any significant residue on his hands, so it had to be very clean to do that, and if he told me it was going to snow in July, I would wear a coat out to check.

A local mechanic said most likely the buttons on the secondary, and recommended blowing out clutch assembly and replacing buttons and also new belt. also said be good to lube the primary clutch bearing also while there, but required a special tool to remove.

But, I wanted some other opinions, therefore the reason for the post. Usually a think tank is better than just one opinion and they are some awesome guys on here with knowledge.

you referred to a sportsman 400-500, they may be simuliar, but this is a Polaris Ranger 500 instead of a sportsman.

Ill ask him to ck motor mounts , just in case, but in above post i stated he said he shook the primary clutch back and forth and could not find any play in it, and according to info he found online, that is a good thing.

Tks,
 

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rackmaster, allow me to clarify a few things, first off I apologize if I came across as rude with regards to what your associate found when investigating the clutches. I was simply speaking from experience with Polaris machines that it is severely uncommon to not have a fair amount of belt dust built up inside the clutch housing after 1600 miles of riding. Due to the design of these clutches belt slip is inevitable which is why Polaris clutches require more intensive maintenance than other brands. With what you guys found I would assume that the clutch housing has been cleaned before, which is great! Also, the reason I mentioned the Polaris Sportsman ATV models in relation to your Ranger is that they share a very similar drive-train including fasteners. The engine mounts on both machines are identical (same part numbers) and as I mentioned, I've had to replace engine mounts on a hand full of Sportsman ATVs whose factory mounts had deteriorated over time (they're made of rubber). When the engine mounts break down they allow the engine to move more freely within the frame which can bring the clutches out of alignment. This will typically shorten belt life and clutch life, causing excessive wear and tear on internal parts. Please be sure to post up what you guys find out. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
rackmaster, allow me to clarify a few things, first off I apologize if I came across as rude with regards to what your associate found when investigating the clutches. I was simply speaking from experience with Polaris machines that it is severely uncommon to not have a fair amount of belt dust built up inside the clutch housing after 1600 miles of riding. Due to the design of these clutches belt slip is inevitable which is why Polaris clutches require more intensive maintenance than other brands. With what you guys found I would assume that the clutch housing has been cleaned before, which is great! Also, the reason I mentioned the Polaris Sportsman ATV models in relation to your Ranger is that they share a very similar drive-train including fasteners. The engine mounts on both machines are identical (same part numbers) and as I mentioned, I've had to replace engine mounts on a hand full of Sportsman ATVs whose factory mounts had deteriorated over time (they're made of rubber). When the engine mounts break down they allow the engine to move more freely within the frame which can bring the clutches out of alignment. This will typically shorten belt life and clutch life, causing excessive wear and tear on internal parts. Please be sure to post up what you guys find out. Thanks.
All good/ thanks for the tip on the mounts, will ask dannie to ck them. I never owned any of the atv, always had Hondas for them and well pleased, this unit is used only on the timber farm there, but it is E KY and the hills are pretty good. no water usage , except small branch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The plastic buttons are on order along with a primary removal tool and belt being mailed to install, going to patch the cover and seal with some sealant.
will blow out any dust in clutch,
question,
1--when the primary comes off, can a person lube the bearing without having special tool to break down the primary????????
2- does not appear duraclutch makes a replacement for this unit, )2011 500 mid size) what is out there that would give some engine breaking?

also, this units hardest work to is haul feed to deer feeders, but having 500 lbs in back on those hills plus couple full grown guys is a good payload, I usually feed 8-10 tons of corn each year in the feeders.
would this cause the premature wear on these roller, buttons???
 

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I think Dirty Dawg Performance might have a secondary that will fit your rig and give you some engine breaking


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The plastic buttons are on order along with a primary removal tool and belt being mailed to install, going to patch the cover and seal with some sealant.
will blow out any dust in clutch,
question,
1--when the primary comes off, can a person lube the bearing without having special tool to break down the primary????????
2- does not appear duraclutch makes a replacement for this unit, )2011 500 mid size) what is out there that would give some engine breaking?

also, this units hardest work to is haul feed to deer feeders, but having 500 lbs in back on those hills plus couple full grown guys is a good payload, I usually feed 8-10 tons of corn each year in the feeders.
would this cause the premature wear on these roller, buttons???
Question 1: Unfortunately, you can not properly grease the Primary Clutch's central bearing without completely disassembling the clutch itself and this takes (2) special tools (Clutch Holding Fixture and Spider Removal Tool). Typically, if you "need" to grease the central bearing it's probably better to just replace it instead. They aren't terribly expensive and you'll have better piece of mind being that the part is brand new.

Question 2: I am not aware of a replacement primary for your machine, from SVI (manufacturing company of the Duraclutch) but I'm sure Todd from Hunterworks can confirm. However, you can purchase a replacement, One-Way central bearing for your primary which is what provides 1 part of your vehicle's engine breaking; you'll just have to get it installed (again requires the tools listed above).

The Two-Way central bearing in your Primary has a part number of #3514609. If you can find out how to remove it and install a new one, you can purchase Polaris part #1521172 which is a One-Way central bearing.

The second part of your vehicle’s engine breaking by the way, comes from the helix (or ramp) in the secondary clutch. I don’t believe there was an option for engine breaking on the secondary clutch in your machine so it’s likely that you would have to completely replace your secondary clutch to receive full engine breaking. Unfortunately, I’m not positive which of the other TEAM Secondary Clutches would fit your machine (it could wind up being a guessing game).


sledder made a good point above, if any company has a Secondary Clutch that would fit your machine and has an engine breaking option, it would be DDP!
 

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From what you have told us I would guess your either looking at the main bearing in the primary, or the secondary clutch bushing/buttons. Unfortunately, this sounds a lot like what happened with my 570 just before the secondary blew up! Yes, I mean "blew up", there were little pieces of that thing everywhere! Not saying that this is your issue, but the Rapid Response secondary clutches on these machines are notorious for there high failure rate! Dale at DDP hooked me up with his clutch kit that included a new Team HD secondary, springs for both clutches, Helix and new tunable weights for the Primary, all tuned to my riding style! The new setup eliminated the jerky takoff and also included engine breaking down to about 5 MPH!
Give Dale a call and he can help you out!

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ok, new belt installed, and buttons on secondary. and the buttons were worn down considerably. He took it for a test spin and all operated good without any noise. cover was patched with a bucket top and some jb weld. and went ahead and blew out the main clutch assembly. will follow-up if any more issues with the noise.

still wondering what could cause such premature wear on the buttons with 1600 miles. ( terrain is pretty steep and used to haul corn and work on plots)

since the unit does not cross very little water, the patch should work.
Again, thanks for all advise.
 
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