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Discussion Starter #1
Super newbie owner here. We bought a used 2013 Ranger Crew 800 EFI. After a couple weeks it just wouldn’t start. I press the brake pedal, turn the key, and the electronics on the speedometer light up, but nothing happens.

We had the battery and solenoid checked, and they’re good. Where do we go from here? What would suggest it’s one thing over another?

Next on our list includes figuring out if the brake pressure sensor is dirty. I haven’t the faintest idea where that is located on our model. Does anyone have any very specific directions on how to get to that?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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I just so happen to have that exact model in my shop. The brake pressure sensor doesn't require cleaning but the electrical connection may be corroded and in need of some attention. The sensor is located on the master cylinder near the drivers side front wheel. You'll have to remove the wheel well panel to get to it.

Before you do that turn the key to on and press the brake pedal. If the brake lights come on then that is not your problem. If they don't, unplug the connector at the sensor and "jump" the two wires with a paper clip and see if the brake lights come on. If they do, try to start it.

Report back with what you find.
 

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I just so happen to have that exact model in my shop. The brake pressure sensor doesn't require cleaning but the electrical connection may be corroded and in need of some attention. The sensor is located on the master cylinder near the drivers side front wheel. You'll have to remove the wheel well panel to get to it.

Before you do that turn the key to on and press the brake pedal. If the brake lights come on then that is not your problem. If they don't, unplug the connector at the sensor and "jump" the two wires with a paper clip and see if the brake lights come on. If they do, try to start it.

Report back with what you find.
Thank you so much for replying!!! When I turn the key on, the tail lights go on permanently. When I push the brake, there’s no change in the tail lights. Thoughts?
 

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Jump the connector on the brake/starter interlock switch.
 

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Hey, I already said that!

Yep, try that and see if the brake lights come on. If they do, either the pressure switch is faulty or the connection is corroded/dirty or you have no brake pressure (pedal goes to the floor).
Thank you!!!!! I’m headed outside to figure out how to get the panel off and try it!! I’ll let you know how it goes ??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK- I’ve gotten to my brake safety switch. I pulled off the connection and cleaned it out and plugged it back in, still won’t start. Can you explain in detail which are the connectors and how I jump them?
 

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When you pull the connector off you should see two holes on said connector that mate with the male pins on the pressure switch. Bend a paperclip into a "U" and put it into those two holes which will trick the ECU into thinking you have the brake on.
 

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OK- I did that. When I turn the key to the on position, the tail lights go on permanently (which they always have). When I push the brakes, nothing changes. Might that mean those wires are faulty rather than the switch being bad? We bought this Ranger used, and it looks like they did some higgledy piggeldy work on those wires. It was folded over and zip tied to the brake switch, which leads me to believe maybe it’s been an issue before and that was their MacGuyver way of fixing it? There isn’t even a panel on that side anymore- they must have taken it off to fix things and never put it back on.
D99A535E-7FFB-4584-95FE-A64DD0A22B0D.jpeg
 

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So you did put a jumper in that black connector which essentially connects those two orange wires? If so, and the brake lights didn't come on I'd be peeling off that white tape and black wire loom and check the wiring/connections.
 

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Yeah...they may have swapped some connections. The test suggested assumes they didnt bypass something in the wiring....no brake lights means no start.

May check fuses also as the connection they may have bypassed could have shorted out and blown a fuse.

If fuse blown then you can check source of short and as suggested....the taped area of wire loom is where I would look.....its just a matter of tracking the wiring and an ohm meter can help track it down
 

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Yeah...they may have swapped some connections. The test suggested assumes they didnt bypass something in the wiring....no brake lights means no start.

May check fuses also as the connection they may have bypassed could have shorted out and blown a fuse.

If fuse blown then you can check source of short and as suggested....the taped area of wire loom is where I would look.....its just a matter of tracking the wiring and an ohm meter can help track it down
Errrrrr what ???
 

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Yeah...they may have swapped some connections. The test suggested assumes they didnt bypass something in the wiring....no brake lights means no start.

May check fuses also as the connection they may have bypassed could have shorted out and blown a fuse.

If fuse blown then you can check source of short and as suggested....the taped area of wire loom is where I would look.....its just a matter of tracking the wiring and an ohm meter can help track it down
The two wires going to the pressure switch are ground (negative) wires. All the switch does is complete the ground circuit when the brake pedal is pressed and that ground signal tells the ECU that the brake is applied. Those wires cannot "short" to anything except a positive wire (hot wire) and that's a slim possibility. There, however, could be a "open" in the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We’re going to hit it hard tomorrow morning and spend our Saturday digging into it.

One thing I don’t understand is why the tail lights are always on when the key is in the on position. Is that normal? The running lights aren’t on (and the headlights aren’t on). And when we press the brake, nothing changes in the tail lights- since the lights are already on, I was expecting them to illuminate brighter, like brake lights on a car do if you have on the running lights. So, would you say that means the brake lights are NOT working when the brake is pressed? Or is there something making them stay on all the time, and is that related? Sorry for the basic questions, this is literally our first intro into all this. My husband understands circuits and electronics, but we don’t know all the particulars of the UTV yet :) We have an ohm meter and will check connections. Our next step is to check out that wiring. If it looks good, what do we do next?
 

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The taillights should be on when the key is on. That last post made me think of something. There is a possibility that the previous owner tied those two wires together under that white tape and it's not taillights that are on, it's actually the brake lights. If that's the case then there is something else causing the no start. Get back to us after checking out that wire harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Partial success!!! We tried jumping the connectors again and the Ranger started up!!! So we’ve narrowed it down to the brake safety switch. We tried cleaning off the posts, but it still won’t start when connected. We started to remove the brake safety switch, and brake fluid started leaking out, so we screwed it back in for now. Is that normal? We plan to get a new one and try and swap them out quickly, losing the least amount of brake fluid. We currently have plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir. Would that work? AND- after that, do we need to bleed the brakes? We’ve never done that before- any instructions?
 

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Glad you found it. The brake fluid coming out is normal. When you press the brake pedal the brake fluid creates a pressure causing the pressure switch to connect internally. I would try the quick swap out. I've done it before and it worked fine, fluid came out but no air got in. The proper way is to change the switch and then bleed the brake system. I would try doing the swap first and then see if you have a soft brake pedal.

What was under the white tape?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nothing was under the white tape! Who knows what was going on there ??‍♀ Possibly just for protection because they had kinked the wire back and forth and then zip tied it.

How do you know if air has gotten into the brake lines? And if it has, do you need to bleed the master cylinder, as well?

You have literally saved us!!!! Thank you so much for all your help :)
 

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You'll know if air is in the system because the brake pedal will feel different. With a little air the pedal will feel spongy, a lot of air and it'll go to the floor. When you bleed the system it takes care of the master cylinder as well. We will go over the procedure if it's necessary, too much to type if it's not needed.
 
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