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lou1947 said:
The bolt is Metric 8x1.25 320mm length which is about 12 inches. I will try the baking soda tip.Will keep you posted on the repair. Have you taken your batteries out and checked the trays and bolts? .
OK, , no I have not had my tray out, so I went and tipped back the bed so I could access the "D" bolts. I used a dial, inch pound, 1/4" drive torque wrench (96 inch pounds is 8 ft lbs. I then sprayed penetrating oil and let sit for an hour. The bolts popped loose from their torque lock at 96 inch pounds. Removed, inspected, cleaned the surface rust, completely coated the threaded sections with anti-seize and reinstalled/torqued to 96 inch lbs.

The bolts had minor surface rust which I cleaned off with penetrating oil. Other than that, not the tray looked fine and the bolts looked fine.
 

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Thanks for your replies. My bolts had corroded to the point that the thread of 10 of them was pretty much gone. The metal tray had some metal rust and was corroded around the tabs were the bolts go thru. One of the nuts that are welded to the tray had also come loose as a result of the acid eating the metal. A friend of mine has taken the trays and is in the process of welding and grinding away the bad areas. I will then spray with Line X to prevent any further problems..I was wondering if you could check the algorithm on your charger to see what it is set at. To do so plug your charger and look at the side of the charger and you will see a sequence of flashes ,that sequence will then be repeated a second time. I would very appreciative if you could let me know. Thank you.
 

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lou1947 said:
Thanks for your replies. My bolts had corroded to the point that the thread of 10 of them was pretty much gone. The metal tray had some metal rust and was corroded around the tabs were the bolts go thru. One of the nuts that are welded to the tray had also come loose as a result of the acid eating the metal. A friend of mine has taken the trays and is in the process of welding and grinding away the bad areas. I will then spray with Line X to prevent any further problems..I was wondering if you could check the algorithm on your charger to see what it is set at. To do so plug your charger and look at the side of the charger and you will see a sequence of flashes ,that sequence will then be repeated a second time. I would very appreciative if you could let me know. Thank you.
OK, I may do that tomorrow. If I read the instructions the batteries need to be disconnected, or is it just the main power plug at the main controller (disconnect this first, plug in last connector?) I want to know which one it is anyway,

I did some simple math on the M8 ROD idea. (Guesstimate) 12 X $8 is $96 If you own a good 8X1.25mm die cost is $0, need to purchase maybe $25. 12ea, 8X1.25mm cap nuts should not cost more than $5 so cost for the Stainless steel rod idea would be about $100 to $125, Some good bearing mount locktite and a couple hours to thread the rods. Thread maybe an inch for the cap nuts, put some bearing mount locktite on the rod and torque to about 20ftlbs and after about an hour those cap nuts will never come off. Thread the bottom of the rod about 2.5 inches and you should have your new bolts (that should never rust again) for about 1/2 price.

Good idea to have your friend rebuild your pan, really good idea IMHO.
 

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Just disconnect the plug under the seat that disconnects the batteries. Thanks for the idea of the stainless steel rods, I will look into it . Got my trays back and they look great, next step to have them primed and then coated. Thanks in advanced for checking your algorithm.
 

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lou1947 said:
Just disconnect the plug under the seat that disconnects the batteries. Thanks for the idea of the stainless steel rods, I will look into it . Got my trays back and they look great, next step to have them primed and then coated. Thanks in advanced for checking your algorithm.
OK, 6 blinks, short pause 3 blinks. repeat.

Oh, one thing I failed to S rod idea, as your pan nuts will not be SS, make sure you still use plenty of anti-seize on the bottom thread when you install.
 

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lou1947 said:
Thanks for checking the algorithm. Are you sure that is 63 and not 73? I will take your advice on the rods. Thank you,
I am getting a bit slow now that I've retired, but I am pretty sure. I cycled through it twice. It's charging right now so I can't break into it again until tomorrow after Church (9-10). Ran the cycle twice, I can run it a couple more times again tomorrow to double double check if you wish. I can never be sure about things like that blinks faster than about 1 per second, and I think the whole display doesn't take much more than a second.
 

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Thanks for taking time to check your algorithm.Got my machine back together. I found some stainless steel threaded rods and had a machine shop weld some M8 bolt heads .With all the problems with my old batteries boiling during charging I took it upon myself and change the algorithm to 71 and so far it has charged the new US battery without any boiling.I think that the hot amperage of the 73 algorithm is what would make the batteries boil.Dont know much about a 63 algorithm so maybe is a new setting from Polaris. May I ask what year is your EV.
 

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lou1947 said:
Thanks for taking time to check your algorithm.Got my machine back together. I found some stainless steel threaded rods and had a machine shop weld some M8 bolt heads .With all the problems with my old batteries boiling during charging I took it upon myself and change the algorithm to 71 and so far it has charged the new US battery without any boiling.I think that the hot amperage of the 73 algorithm is what would make the batteries boil.Dont know much about a 63 algorithm so maybe is a new setting from Polaris. May I ask what year is your EV.
Early 2010. it was a demonstrator that had 60 hours on it when we purchased it as "New" It now has 265 hours May I suggest a BatteryMinder 48021 to keep you battery in top shape. It has a little two pin connector with ring terminals I mounted mine in the plug they have were the gas tank fill would go is it was a gas model. When I park the EV for more than a couple minutes I plug the BatteryMinder in, even if I don't want to plug in the big charger yet. Point #2, never go to bed without those new batteries on the charger. the trickle charge will keep them at the top and ready to go
 

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Guys Great info sharing. I am the unfortunate owner of a 2010 Ranger EV that has been regularly maintained and serviced by a dealer and myself. Same problems,,,bad charger....corrossion...batteries damaged by bad charger...improper charging match to batteries...damaged vehicle and now melted posts on batteries . Dealer covered all terminals with grease and then stated I failed to maintain terminals nuts to proper torque(8 Ft Lbs) which resulted in loose connections causing terminals to melt...all about 40 or so hours after it was in dealers shop....so I guess I was supposed to clean off all grease to tighten nuts on terminals then re-apply.grease??/or perhaps dealer didn't tighten nuts securely when completely corrodeed cables were replaced...pure hogwash!! US battery said nuts weren't properly tightened...cause if they ahd been they would not have come loose in that short of time...Polaris just keeps ignoring its customers while w ehave to play mechanic and repair the vehicle without help form the company we purchased it from....maybe thats why poor saps like me but something for $11k and after spending $3k in the first couple of years have a machine that can't be sold ....really who would buy this with all of these problems.....we need to expose this for what is is...and let someone else decide what is right...that should open the flood gates.Polaris just wants the time period to slip buy while they occasionally throw someone a bone so that legal remedies are no longer available...we shall see what happens!!
 

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I replaced all the battery terminal hardware with a stainless steel flat washer, lock washer, and nut after cleaning the terminals with a spray cleaner, neutralizing with baking soda and drying. Torqued all the nuts down and applied thin film spray anti-corrosion dielectric grease. Have not had any come loose with the use of lock washers.
 

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hi to all . i have just bought a 2011 lsv with only 39 hours on it so it looks brand new but the battery has a few cable ends that have coroded under the heatshrink so i was thinking of replacing most of the batt cables . what is the gauge of the stock cables ? i can replace the 2 long batt cables and 6 short ones with 4 gauge for 40 bucks or so . also it has the new converter and i disconected the charger conector and it was perfect anything else to check?
 

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hi to all . i have just bought a 2011 lsv with only 39 hours on it so it looks brand new but the battery has a few cable ends that have coroded under the heatshrink so i was thinking of replacing most of the batt cables . what is the gauge of the stock cables ? i can replace the 2 long batt cables and 6 short ones with 4 gauge for 40 bucks or so . also it has the new converter and i disconected the charger conector and it was perfect anything else to check?
I would check the algorithm on your charger,if it is set at 73 (most likely) I would change it to 71 all you will ruin your batteries and that is an expensive repair. Believe me I have been thru it.To check the algorithmn just remove te seat and baskets and disconect the connector under the drivers seat near the back of the controller.Now plug the charger to an outlet and look at the led lights on the side of the charger.(at first you will see the different led's light up and then it will be followed by an amber LED blinking .Count the blinks, most likely you will see seven blinks followed by three blinks. That would be your algorithmn.That sequence will occur twice,if you are unable to be sure of the blinks disconnect the charger and try again. If you have any questions you can call me at 217 430 3100. Good luck.
 

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thanks lou i checked and it is 73 i also noticed that the batterys bubble alot when charging so how do i change the setting? and would you know the gauge of the stock cables?
 

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thanks lou i checked and it is 73 i also noticed that the batterys bubble alot when charging so how do i change the setting? and would you know the gauge of the stock cables?
Sorry I dont know the gauge of the battery cables,however I can help you on changing the algorithmn.You will need about sis to eight feet of electrical cord wire to do this.It is a very simple procedure and i will guide you thru it however its best if I can talk you thru it on the phone. I will be home tonight if you want you can call me at seven this evening.I am in Illinois.
 

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cant tonight will gather stuff for tomorrow night?
WE will try sometime this weekend.I am leaving to go deer hunting. IF you want text me your phone number and I will call you when its a good time for both of us.To change the algorithm it takes about ten minutes at most.Lou
 
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