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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have noticed that my ranger is leaning to the drivers side. The front left is about 1/2"-3/4" lower than the front right, and the rear left is about 3/4"-1" lower than the rear right. I tried removing the sway bar and riding it a bit without to see if that was the issue, and its still sitting the same. The shocks settings are the same on each front, and each rear, no visible signs of a oil leak that i can tell. I am curious if I bent an a arm or if i could have possibly bent the frame or something.

What suggestions do you guys have to get this remedied? The machine seems to ride and run just fine, its leaning is just driving me nuts because i can tell its there.

Thanks
 

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Seems too new for spring sag unless you've been hauling a lot of weight - might want to swap the shocks/springs left to right to rule it out...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tire pressures are good, forgot to mention that, no worries.

I havent been hauling a ton of weight, but it may be worth while to look at. So swap the springs from left shock to right shock or swap the entire shock?
 

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Thats gangsta...just kidding. Im interested to find out the problem.
 

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I have noticed that mine is all out of whack as well. I have been in the body shop industry for 15 years and am pretty familiar with frame strength/integrity and I must say that the polaris frame is junk. I just installed the outkast fabworx 3" full lift kit on my 14 ranger 900 crew, ran into an issue with one of the arms being a little too narrow so it had to sit on jack stands for a little longer than planned. Long story short the polaris full doors would not open and shut for crap while on the stands from the beginning. Now call me stupid but I'd say if the roll cage gets racked from being up on jack stands then the frame strength has to be questioned. I wouldn't be surprised if they were ever really square to begin with. Not sure if this helps anyone but hope it does
 

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I have noticed that mine is all out of whack as well. I have been in the body shop industry for 15 years and am pretty familiar with frame strength/integrity and I must say that the polaris frame is junk. I just installed the outkast fabworx 3" full lift kit on my 14 ranger 900 crew, ran into an issue with one of the arms being a little too narrow so it had to sit on jack stands for a little longer than planned. Long story short the polaris full doors would not open and shut for crap while on the stands from the beginning. Now call me stupid but I'd say if the roll cage gets racked from being up on jack stands then the frame strength has to be questioned. I wouldn't be surprised if they were ever really square to begin with. Not sure if this helps anyone but hope it does
You bring up a good point, Ben! Back in the olden days, I performed an experiment (inadvertently!) by running my '11 800XP into a tree at about ~5 MPH. Long story short, the insurance company replaced my frame. I asked for, and received, the old frame and I was really shocked by it's construction. You don't really see it with all the plastics installed but there isn't a whole lot (like, none!) of 'heavy metal' in it - it was really pretty flimsy - to the point of convincing me not to do any heavy duty mods. Matter-of-fact, I was even aprehensive about remounting my 4000 lb winch on it! In fairness, a lot of guys have put some pretty heavy stuff on their machines with few or no problems. However, if were inclined to install (which I'm NOT) a high lift kit or long travel suspension, I would seriously consider stripping the machine down to the bare frame first and installing (or building) a gusset kit like the ones commercially available for RZRs first (see RacerTech). I understand that Rngr 900 frames are a little heavier duty than the 800s, but judging by the weight difference, I don't see how they could be that much sturdier. I have had the opportunity to look over the new Kawasaki Pro-FXT and noted their frame and suspension components are considerably beefier than the older Polaris 800 crews, although I think I would still opt for the Polaris if I were buying (brand loyalty?).

As far as your cage, being racked, do you think (you're the body guy, I don't know squat about the subject!), parking your machine on a level surface then loosening all the cage bolts, then putting something that vibrates a lot (e.g. a lawnmower or gas generator, or ???) in the bed and letting run for awhile letting the cage pieces "settle in" then tightening the cage bolts a little at a time in a rotating pattern (like you would tighten the head bolts on an engine) might help square it up? If Polaris at least machined the mating surfaces square, seems like that 'might' help! Like I said, I'm pretty stupid on the subject, but physics suggests that it may help! Just my 2¢ - now where did I set my beer...
 

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I believe the cages are bolted on at the dealership, usually by a salesman that's bored, or a beginner tech. The machines are shipped without them so they fit in a smaller crate for stacking purposed. So there's no telling how level the machine was when they assembled it at the dealer. I wouldn't necessarily pin that on Polaris. a few of the bolts on my roll cage were loose when I got it home.

To the OP. I would definitely inspect the a-arms really well, as well as wheel bearings and ball joints. Does the tire lean at all? or just the machine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, finally made some time to get some work done on this thing. I swapped the shocks from side to side and put the tires back on and set it on the ground. it helped a bit i think, but it still measures 1/2 low on the drivers side. I started looking at the rear tires and measured the left rear drivers side tire as being about 1/2 inch shorter at the same psi as the other side. Also, when the tires were off all the way around i measured from the front left castle nut, to the left rear castle nut. Then did the same, on the other side, the measurements were the same so i think this rules out the a arms being bent?

suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
they have about the same wear. i always run in turf mode unless i need 4wd, but thats not the issue i dont think. I believe its a defect in the tires, they were all bought at the same time, and have the same amount of wear/miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
but even though the rear tires seem to measure different i am still curious as to why it would affect the front measurement?
 

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Ok, now don't take offense, how much do you weigh ? Some of my military jeeps sagged on drivers side due to weight of fuel tank, under drivers seat, and driver. The Polaris , as noted earlier, has light frame and suspension componets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
im sure i dont stress the machine when i weigh in at a whopping 160 lbs.
 

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He does make a valid point. The fuel tank is right under the driver's seat. And the weight of the driver plus that, when you park it and get out, it may just stay low on that side. if you lift the front and rear of the machine with a jack and set it down without putting weight on either side, does it still lean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
He does make a valid point. The fuel tank is right under the driver's seat. And the weight of the driver plus that, when you park it and get out, it may just stay low on that side. if you lift the front and rear of the machine with a jack and set it down without putting weight on either side, does it still lean?
Yes, if i lift it up and set it back down it will still lean.
 
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