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Hello this is only my second post about my ranger. I have a 2015 ranger 900 H.O white lightning. I have read the manual about maintenance, but I'm still confused about it. On the speedometer from day one the maintenance read 49 hours with one hour on the machine. I knew a little better than that and just got the 25 hour service done with 24 hrs on the clock, they even changed the spark plugs in the thing! Ok so I got that done but what comes next? The maintenance on the speedometer says the next 50 hours, but it said that the first day I bought the machine (it moves but they must have reset it when they changed the oil). So is it every 100 hours? If so why does the speedometer say 50 hours? If I change it at 100 hours on the meter that will be running the oil I have in it now for 75 hrs then every 100 after that? In the 24 hours I have ran it I only have 105 miles on it. I don't mud ride or anything just mainly on grass or pavement
 

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Hello this is only my second post about my ranger. I have a 2015 ranger 900 H.O white lightning. I have read the manual about maintenance, but I'm still confused about it. On the speedometer from day one the maintenance read 49 hours with one hour on the machine. I knew a little better than that and just got the 25 hour service done with 24 hrs on the clock, they even changed the spark plugs in the thing! Ok so I got that done but what comes next? The maintenance on the speedometer says the next 50 hours, but it said that the first day I bought the machine (it moves but they must have reset it when they changed the oil). So is it every 100 hours? If so why does the speedometer say 50 hours? If I change it at 100 hours on the meter that will be running the oil I have in it now for 75 hrs then every 100 after that? In the 24 hours I have ran it I only have 105 miles on it. I don't mud ride or anything just mainly on grass or pavement
Humm.... I may not be following along with the question, but have you reset the hour meter, see pages 33-36 http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9925415r02_lo_res.pdf
 

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i changed all the oils at the 25 hour mark an 100 hours there after. No reason or need to change spark plugs at 25 hours. Waste of money��
I agree, there is no need in changing plugs so quickly. However, having a spare belt and couple plugs on-hand would be a good thing :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys I'm going to try to set the service interval to 100hrs. I have a 4 year extended warranty. So I think I will service it again at 100 hrs then every 100 after that is that what I'm supposed to do? I don't want to lose my warranty. I'm new and love my ranger but every time it rains I get water in the belt. And the first time I washed it the suspension started squeaking, it doesn't look like the dealer greased the zeros should I buy a grease gun and grease it with only 25 hours on it?! I heard you can over grease some things and cause them to wear quicker is that true on the ranger? Like on the u joints & bushings? Thanks again guys I appreciate it
 

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I follow the "severe duty" schedule and change all fluids every 50 hours. Sure, I may be throwing away some money, but as much as repairs cost, it seems like relatively cheap insurance. It takes quite a while to accrue 100 hours, so I don't want to find out that I've been driving around for 95 hours with water in my diff (just a hypothetical example) that happened only 5 hours after my last fluid change. Like I said, just cheap insurance and peace of mind.
 
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I follow the "severe duty" schedule and change all fluids every 50 hours. Sure, I may be throwing away some money, but as much as repairs cost, it seems like relatively cheap insurance. It takes quite a while to accrue 100 hours, so I don't want to find out that I've been driving around for 95 hours with water in my diff (just a hypothetical example) that happened only 5 hours after my last fluid change. Like I said, just cheap insurance and peace of mind.

X2. I ride where it is extremely dusty. If I rode where there was no dust and no water, then I'd probably go 100 hours.
 

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50 hours on a oil change seems kinda excessive. I understand what you are trying to say about cheap insurance but if we changed oil on all our atvs and sxs's at 50 hours we would be broke. Not trying to start a oil change war on here but we have all Honda atvs that get used pretty much all the time (weather permitting) I know they never get their oil changed even at 100 hrs but probably more like 200 or more and so far never had any major motor problems yet. And we have 6 ranchers and 1 foreman between 2 family's.

Just my 2 cents here but as long as you keep an eye on your air filter i'd say you should be fine on the 100 hrs oil changes. Its your machine, you do what you think.

I live in central Missouri and it can get very dusty one day and the next be more like a swamp. If it was me I would maybe blow out filter every so often between oil changes and run with it.
 

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Use should dictate the service intervals. I mud ride hard. Like Jerry stated, I don't want to find out what happens when you ride with water in the diff for 200 miles. Depending on what we rode through, (water depth and how much we actually rode) I change all fluids ever ride or every other ride. This is why I refuse to run synthetics, there is no benefit for me. The Ranger holds 2.5 qt. of engine oil, the gearcase holds 40oz (give or take depending on what page of the manual you read) and the front diff holds 6 oz. Greasing the suspension does help, however if you don't and add zerks to the rear bearing carriers and drill all the steel bushings, greasing is really useless. My bushings were dry as a popcorn fart because my machine was water (rice field duck hunting) ridden and not greased before being ridden. I replaced all my steels, bushings, tie rods, wheel bearings and brakes after 1 year. Next time I will use Super Dave bushing and steels, they last about 3 times as long as OEM stuff.
 

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I think there are many good points here and certainly agree that a 50 hr interval has some advantages for the reasons mentioned, but alternatively, depending on how you are using the bike, regular inspections of the fluids in between full svc intervals should protect against having water in front, rear diffs or otherwise. The trick is, to make sure you are disciplined about the interval inspections. For some, it is just easier to simply change on an accelerated interval which forces you to address it vs knowing you arent changing but rather just inspecting. In other words, it is easier to skip the inspection since it isnt really a true and complete service. Im one of those, very good about doing the service but not good about doing the inspections. Fortunately, it hasnt bit me yet, bc the time it takes me to hit 100 hrs is like 3 yrs
 

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I just swapped out my rear bushings, knowing aftermarket are way better I still went oem because only the outers were bad and didn't want to spend the money yet. Just so you know Polaris is paying attention, old one were smooth inside(not from being worn) and new ones had grease slots. My problem is they were turning in the case.
 

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Just so you know Polaris is paying attention, old one were smooth inside(not from being worn) and new ones had grease slots.
Larry, Polaris has had the grease slots in the bushings for many years. My 09' and 13' both have them ( original bushings).
Polaris does have a couple of different part numbers for the bushings (model year changes), but I am unaware of the specific change, that created the new part number.
 

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Well this is an 09, just figured they were original but who knows, I'm the second owner. Don't feel it had wore the grooves out because it fit to tight to the sleeve and why put grease grooves with no way to grease plus the number change lead me to think someone had a light bulb moment.
 

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....The trick is, to make sure you are disciplined about the interval inspections......
The problem with inspection is if you do have water in the front diff' or tranny (and rear diff' in older models that have a separate rear diff'), that water will be in the bottom. There's no practical way to tell it's in there without draining it.
 
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The problem with inspection is if you do have water in the front diff' or tranny (and rear diff' in older models that have a separate rear diff'), that water will be in the bottom. There's no practical way to tell it's in there without draining it.
Interesting. A lot of gear cases and gear case oil will discolor, often developing an almost milky look but apparently not the case here
 

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If it has water; check it right after riding it will be milky, spin it over a bit before you check it should be milky. Point is water and oil do mix and produces a milky look however they do not stay mixed and over a period of time will separate with the water going to the bottom, how much time depends on the oil. Another way to check is let it sit and crack the drain plug, water should come out before the oil or plug does with this scenario you need to have good line of sight with the plug, something that can be difficult.
 
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